Cantina Giacomo Conterno “Paulée” with Roberto Conterno

Back in May I made the annual trip to see Roberto Conterno and taste the new releases at Cantina Giacomo Conterno along with a few other wines (I love my job) you can read about that trip HERE.

One of the things we discussed with Roberto and his, ever helpful, assistant Stephanie was getting them over to London, this we finalised while we were out there, setting dates for July. They had a very busy time while they were here and I have briefly put notes at the bottom of this post about the wines we showed at a press lunch and a private customer dinner.

One of the main things I wanted to do, with not a hint of self interest you understand (much!), was to get some customers together for a small (we were 12 people) Paulee at 67 Pall Mall. The team there, headed by Gareth, did a great job with endless Zalto Burgundy glasses and lots of pouring.

The team in the kitchen did exactly as asked and came up with a simple and non-clashing menu as below. In the nicest possible way I don't think we even noticed the food much!

Fillet of beef Carpaccio, rocket, capers and sourdough croutons

Somerset organic spelt and girolle risotto

Fillet of beef Wellington with beef dripping roasties

Girolles on toast

People were asked to bring along a magnum or two bottles of a wine of Roberto's. I did a little bit of "steering" on the selections and we came up with a cracking combo.

As the guests assembled we started with some Wiston Blanc de Blancs 2010 which is drinking very well right now, a nice combination of zip and a little toastiness showing, the sort of thing I will regret not tucking a few bottles aside of to see what it is like in 5 years or so.

Flight 1 - "Nobody puts Barbera in the corner"
Ok so that's a naff title for a flight but as Roberto never tires of saying "you are not opening a bottle of Barbera or Barolo of even Monfortino...you are opening a bottle of CONTERNO". The Barberas are given every bit of love and attention that the Barolos are and I would say (well I would wouldn't I) that the Conterno Barberas are the most consistently high quality you will find anywhere. I wanted to use this as a chance to show not only the two sites but two different stages of evolution:

Barbera Cascina Francia 2008 - this is a wine I know very well, moreish and becoming more savoury, good mellow grip and dark but not deep fruit. There is a lot of balance here, pretty seamless. Quite serious as Francia always is.

Barbera Cerretta 2012 - this is, like 2008 above, from a cooler, more classically Nebbiolo vintage. The vibrancy of the violets and dark cherry fruit is superb. If I was to drink any Conterno without food as an "aperitif" it would be Cerretta Barbera. Cool stoney minerality seems to get in there too.

Flight 2 - two by two...
So this is a cracking way to get to know two sites. I was keen to show these as they are two different vintages and then the two sites. The site differences showed very clearly. The vintages did too but a little less so. I think this is often the case with great producers.

Barolo Cerretta 2010 Magnum - this is the first Barolo from the site, 2008 and 2009 both being released as Langhe Nebbiolo (the 2008 is stunning right now!). This has a super-charged feel, rich and fruited and with a big structure, there is density and concentration here, lusciousness even sucrosity. This will be fascinating to follow.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2010 Magnum - my note for this features the word "serious" twice. There is a density but this is a linear wine, with drive and poise. I like this a great deal, it is just as I would want it to be, introvert, saline, tight and proper.

Barolo Cerretta 2011 Magnum - this really typifies Cerretta for me, it is friendly and approachable, begs to be drunk. Sweetness and succulence. There is a very Nebbiolo character but also a warm vintage intensity. If you own this it would be a great shame not to try it in youth.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2011 Magnum - my note just starts "Superb wine". Delicious fruit, good grip and drive that makes this less overt than the Cerretta. Reassuringly savoury and grippy but with fruit that roles over the tannin, great balance to the nose, red, black, soil and salinity. You can really sense the input of what would have been the Monfortino barrel.

It was every bit as good a flight as I hoped, as expected the 2011s are showing more now but the 2010s would appear to have it all.

Flight 2

Flight 3 - One site, four vintages... 

If I was asked to name my favourite vineyard, from a pure drinking perspective it may very well be Cascina Francia. Now planted to 9hectares of Nebbiolo (to give you a perspective Clos de Tart is a little over 7 hectares and La Tache is around 5hectares) and 5hectares of Barbera.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2008 Magnum - I am a massive fan of 2008. I really feel that those who may have bought Barolo in 2004 and 2010 (the most lauded vintages) but not 2006 and 2008 have made a mistake. 2008 is a vintage of sweetness and elegant feminity but with no lack of classicism, 2006 is the older brother to 2008, grip and texture, a wine of sternness and complexity. Roberto was very interesting on the 2008 as a growing season mainly because there was a seven-day spell towards the end of September when the temperature fell to zero...this was about a month ahead of the Nebbiolo harvest. Somehow this seems to have left wines with less obvious tannin but no lack of complexity. This wine is a lovely example of Cascina Francia, fruited but not overly so, red bramble like hints with brine and leather grip in there.

Barolo Cascina Francia 1994 - this was "gone", badly stored I am guessing, like bovril and PX sherry then tobacco leaf. It is a wine I have had before, a few years ago, it is ok but not much more. In Roberto's own words "from 1995 it is pretty difficult to find bad vintages".

Barolo Cascina Francia 1990 - A wine I know pretty well and last had with Roberto when I visited back in May. It is also a wine I have had a few other times over the last 5 years. Saline, soy, degraded darker fruit and some bacon fat are real signatures of this wine. We did while tasting this superb wine get onto talking about 1989 vs 1990 and I remarked that I'd never had the 1989. There was also no Monfortino in 1989 which would seem odd for a vintage that many label as a comfortable 5stars. The reason is that only 4000 bottles of Barolo was made from the Cascina Francia vineyard due to a hailstorm. It remains I wine I crave to try.

Monfortino 1955 - now this is an experience and one I have had a couple of times before. Notably here during a splendid lunch. This was good showing. From 20 years (ok 19) before the Cascina Francia site was bought. Frazzles, bricky, briney nose with richness. There were a couple of funny conversations over this wine but the over-riding memory was that Roberto simply commented how totally ludicrous his predecessors would have found the idea of people in London enjoying this wine nearly 61 years after it was made!

Flight 4 - Mighty Monfortino...for now and for later...
Monfortino is an iconic wine in the correct sense of the word i.e. because it has proved itself to be a beacon for Barolo and not because the estate or someone in marketing department calls it such a thing. Iconic status can be difficult as it comes with expectation. I genuinely believe that the Monfortinos of the last 15 years (01, 02, 04, 05, 06, 08, 10 & 13*) are amongst the greatest. * The 2013 will be just Monfortino (i.e. no Barolo Cascina Francia), a move not seen since 2002. Simply put, the quality is that good.

Monfortino 2004 - one of only about 5 or 6 wines I have given a perfect or near perfect 20 out of 20 to. That was when I tasted it at the estate back in May 2011. It is a wine I have had a few times since and it is profoundly good. Such drive and persistence, grace and at the same time fathomless structure. It has red fruit as well, no deep dark monster just a great wine. I wouldn't change a thing about it.

Monfortino 1999 - a slightly volatile example compared to the ones that the note below refers to. The was good, rich and full with a lot of salinity.

Monfortino 1997 Magnum - This is a cracking example of a mature Monfortino. It has soy and a little ginger as well as nicely degraded fruits. Of the Monfortinos from the last 30 years this is the one to drink right now. I think it will age well but why would you?

Monfortino 1995 - This is a leaner vintage for me, not quite the round degraded elements that you can find in the 1997. A little stricter. I have a feeling it will make a good older wine, I have nothing but gut feel to base that on. 

It was a wonderful evening - to get the chance to sit and discuss this many wines with Roberto and hear the passion was incredible. I'll leave you with one comment from Roberto, said in the most heartfelt way imaginable "We do not make wines for other people, it is only in making wines for us that satisfy us, that we can be satisfied, that is what drives us".

All that really remains is, as ever, to thank Roberto (and Stephanie) for the time, energy and wonderful wines...I am looking forward to my next trip to the Langhe already!

A great nights work!

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Also in the same visit we hosted both a press lunch at the office and a dinner at Sartoria in Mayfair. On both occasions we showed the same four wines, my notes below:

Barbera Cerretta 2013, En Magnum - "Intensity" and "pleasure" are the watch words here. This is a great vintage for Barbera, expressive and rich but with the necessary acidity and focus. More extrovert than the 2012 mentioned above. To my taste this will be in the zone in 2-3 years. Very true to its site. 

Barolo Cascina Francia 2001 - Saline, salty, a zesty texture with bacon fat and soy, mellow fruits, some ginger appearing. This is just shifting from 3rd gear into 4th. Classical - 2001 being a serious vintage of intensity.

Monfortino 1999 - This is a very typical Monfortino for me, a vintage you "Chew", rich but vast, full and focused at the same time. Hard to write a note for actually. I have always liked this wine.

Barolo Cerretta 2011 - More clay here in this site and it shows there is a lusher texture. Notes from all three times (including the above) are very consistent. Vibrant energy.

Conterno...tasting and dinner

With Roberto Conterno coming to London next week and the new releases about to be offered I felt I must get this blog posted. The visit took place back in mid May.

There is no estate that I visit to taste more often than Cantina Giacomo Conterno in Monforte d'Alba. It is a place I get very excited about every single time. The wines are wonderful and I always learn a lot. I am biased of course but I think it is the same for almost anyone who visits, My trips there from the following years are documented here 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2015). If you search "Conterno" on here you get rather a lot of results!

The tasting was, as is usual, of the wines about to hit the market:

Barbera Francia 2014 - Full crimson colour to the edge, deep at the core. Rich and full dark cherry nose with stones, minerality and a saline edge that is not quite as marked as usual for Francia, very good nose, all round balance. The tannins are delicious and moreish this is a brooding wine but not a heavy one, the fruit lifts on the finish to an almost cranberry freshness. I wonder how Roberto does this every year. 17.5+

Barbera Cerretta 2014 - Half a shade lighter in colour than the Francia but essentially very similar. The nose if more lifted, more obviously fruity, more opulent may be. The fruit character is redder, strawberry and raspberry but actually deeper than either of those fruits suggest. The palate has a tang to it, moreish tannins. This, as usual, has more approachability and lift than the more serious Francia. 17.5

Before moving on to the 2012 Barolos, Roberto thought it would be useful to taste the Barolo Francia 2009 as he sees similarities with the 2012's.

Barolo Francia 2009 - Colour is lightening more than evolving, a lovely hue. There is a touch of red strawberry fruit then more floral notes before a little iodine and some good, ripe grip. Drinking well but obviously no rush at all.

Barolo Francia 2012 - There will be no Monfortino from the 2012 vintage (as was the case in 2007, 2009 & 2011) so the botti that would have been Monfortino (there is a section about Monfortino at the very bottom of this post) has been blended into the Francia (this happened back in January). Lovely bright and complex colour. Ever so slightly muted just now but a lovely red fruited sweetness comes through behind, very fine. Tobacco leaf and tea then appear, a little leather also. The palate is then more fruited again but with good, proper tannins, mellow but persistent. The overriding impression is of a wine in balance with gentle fruit and a lovely complexity of silky tannins. 18-18.5+

Barolo Cerretta 2012 - Paler in colour but only just, more obviously fruited and lifted, strawberry leaf. This is a wine more easily understood by the uninitiated Neb-head (as us Nebbiolo fiends are sometimes know). The texture is deeper the fruit is more pronounced and therefore the tannins less obvious. There is a real freshness and a certain rich elegance. It's quite a wine, a perfect foil to the classicism of the Francia. 18+

We then moved on two taste two more wines.

Monfortino Barolo Riserva 2010 - this is a possibly the most eagerly awaited Italian wine release of all time. I have now tasted it three or four times with equally profound results. There is impeccable balance incredible poise and an almost effortless weight to the wine...Very exciting and now in bottle.

Barolo from Cascina Francia vineyard 2013 - With the final decision on this wine not yet made it was great to taste the 2013 Francia or to give it it's correct name, Nebbiolo di Barolo Francia. It was a vibrant and expansive nose, rich, opulent and bold. There is iron and a grainy saline elegance to the texture...quite something.

It is always a special cellar in which to taste...

Each year in the evening before or after tasting we have a dinner with Roberto and his assistant Stephanie. We usually go to one of the lovely local restaurants - which were the inspiration for most of the meals we had during this epic trip - "Foxes behind ears". This year though was different as we ate a wonderful meal at the Cantina with Roberto, family and friends. A real honour.

Standing in the kitchen while Meyumi prepared the dinner and gave us amazing pizza and cured meats we started with Gaston Chicquet 2007. Not a wine I know but the Italians love Champagne. This was bright, clean and nicely focused, a dash of yeastiness, worth seeking out. Then a wine I know rather well - Salon 1995 - this is really in the zone now from bottle, toasty, refined with lemon shortbread and mellow fruits, just lovely. For white we went to a bottle we had sent ahead - Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres 2009, Domaine Leflaive - a little reduction but essentially a generously fruited Puligny which is true to the vintage without being too much.

Now time for the reds, all of which Roberto decanted delicately just before serving. First up - Barbera d'Alba 2001 - I have tasted this before but never drunk it. Barbera at this age is interesting. A tiny bit of iron and iodine, stones, savoury blacker fruit and richness but not heaviness. Now a wine I have been lucky enough to have had a few times - Barolo Cascina Francia 1990 - soy, ginger, bacon fat and a little creosote, delicious. Sweet decay with some good volatile life. There is a sense of teriyaki flavours and a little Bual Madeira. Decadent and lovely. It sounds silly to say that this has a real "1990" feel but it does, so many 1990s are generous and decadent, this is just that.

Monfortino Barolo Riserva 1985 - a wine I think I have only had once and then from magnum at this tasting - Monfortino magnum Monday 1970-2006. Tiny bit of orange to the rim here, this is a mature wine but has a lovely sweet decay about it, a wine with tea character and super poise.

It had been quite a night. Having had a massive meal of wonderful dishes and so much great conversation we headed back to our lodgings, the unique Le Case della Saracca - if you find yourself in Monforte you must stop by, great rooms and a terrific bar where we had one last drink Barolo Chinato, Dr Giulio Perin (who owns the Saracca) made with Nebbiolo from Conterno Fantino. I am a big fan of Chinato!!
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At the bottom of this post I have put three exerts from a recent offer I wrote, they might be of interest.
A word on corks
Monfortino – What is it? What is next?
The previous releases - When, how and what to drink now?
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On getting back to London the following evening I then had a dinner at Kitchen W8 with a customer and friend. Kitchen W8 I think is as good a place to go as anywhere to enjoy food and wine, they have a great attitude to corkage as well as a good list. They will easily tweak things for you, we had three bottles and wanted two starters and two mains, they adjusted portions a bit (not too much thank fully) and it was a very enjoyable evening.

Salon 1983 - This is fully mature and deliciousness, a little orange rind and zestiness with a hint of mellow ginger too.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap 2003 - I love this wine and would never have it as a 2003 served blind. There is warm vintage richness but nothing that doesn't suggest it is refined and will age very well.

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2005, Rousseau - I am very lucky in so much as I get a fair bit of exposure to the wines of Rousseau but Clos de la Roche I know less well. This is quite brooding but not a waste to have this early, quite rich it got better and better with air. The fruit is a little darker than the CSJ would be.

A cracking evening!
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EXERTS form a , soon to be released, Conterno offer as mentioned above.

A word on corks:

The words “perfectionist“ and “fanatical” are amongst the most overused in the wine world but both apply here to an extraordinary degree. You could, literally, eat your dinner of the floor of this winery. In fact I would if only Roberto would allow it! When the topic of corks arise with Roberto there is always something new to discuss. He just does not accept that corks should be less than perfect. In fact one of his favourite phrases is “with my wines you are not opening a bottle of Barbera or Barolo or Monfortino you are opening a bottle of “CONTERNO””. It is a point made with no wink or half smile, it is heartfelt. The corks are of the same standard in all the wines.  More and more the great producers say “you don’t ever negotiate prices with cork suppliers, you get what you pay for”. All these corks are inspected by an optical sorter with the view to answering two questions; 1) is the cork good enough? If yes, then on to question 2, if not the bin. Question 2) which is the better end? The vintage is then laser etched on the “lesser” end so the perfect end faces the wine with no etching having been added. I have video evidence should you require it.

Monfortino – What is it? What is next?

I am often asked how Roberto decides whether there will be a Monfortino in a given year and where the wine comes from. Monfortino is a selection from the Cascina Francia vineyard based on the absolute quality of the fruit. It is not a specific site though there is of course significant crossover from one Monfortino to another in terms of the area used. There is always an initial intention to make a Monfortino. The large barrels (botti as they are called) that are selected to be “Monfortino”, and it may be one (usually), two, or more that are then tasted as time passes and if they are significantly high in quality and, importantly, significantly different in character from the Barolo Francia then a Riserva Monfortino will be bottled. The ageing for Monfortino is 5-7 years, in other words 1-3 years longer than for Barolo Francia. If the Monfortino is not to be made separately then it is blended in with the Barolo 6 months to a year before that is bottled. Recent vintages where Monfortino was not made – 2012, 2011, 2009, 2007 and 2003. The only time, to date, when there has been a Monfortino and no Barolo Francia was the 2002 vintage, a very small vintage but one where, against the odds, the quality was superb. The next Monfortino to be released will be the 2010, this time next year. Arguably the most eagerly awaited release ever from the region, it is a wine I have tasted several times from botti and which lives up to all the hype that surrounds it.

The previous releases - When, how and what to drink now?

Barberas – I feel that in most vintages the Barbera wines show best in the 4-8 years window. They become more savoury over time and continue to age (a recent 2001 with Roberto was superb) but as you would expect have a less defined character. The 2009, 2010 and 2011 vintages are very good now. As these are unfiltered and Barbera is a thicker skinned grape variety I would recommend decanting 15-30 minutes before serving.

Barolos – The warmer years drink very well when younger and served a shade cooler (14-15 degrees). The vintages I would put in this bracket are 2003, 2007, 2009 and 2011. These will all improve but are ready to drink. I recommend continuing to cellar the 2004, 2006, 2008 and 2010 vintages. Those wines from 2001 and before are ready to drink though 2001 and 1999 are still youthful and evolving gracefully. Sediment is less of an issue than with Barbera so I would either allow the wine to breathe standing up with half a glass removed (and drunk!) or decant gently before serving. I far prefer the wine to evolve in the glass so, personally, do not advocate extended decanting though some people do.

Barolo Riserva Monfortino – Monfortino is a wine with a vast drinking window, one of the most long-lived of all wines. The youngest vintages that I feel are drinking well now are 1997 and 1998. I would never put someone off drinking a younger vintage as the enjoyment of watching a wine develop, bottle by bottle from youth to full maturity is one of the real joys of wine. Younger vintages will require more time in decanter, I recommend 1-2 hours. I would decant mature vintages but as with the Barolos above not for extended time so the wine can evolve in glass.

The last Hurrah...

When the news of the end - for now - of Zucca came out there was quick booking made by fellow Zucca addict - Mr Rafferty for the last but one night, the last night would have been too much.

So nine of us including Mrs Duvault-Blochet joined together for a dinner. The theme being the last bottle from a case, any case. When I say bottle in true style most people brought a magnum or two bottles. This was a very relaxed evening with much opinion expressed and piss-taking. New friends made. We ate from the "normal" menu and rattled off the classics:

Zucca Friti

Carpaccio of Sea Bass

Burrata with Cavalo Nero

Beef Carpaccio

Vitello Tonnato

Squid Bruscetta

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Taglierini, Pork & Fennel Ragu
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Grilled Octopus

Veal Chop
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Chocolate SemiFreddo

We hadn't managed to co-ordinate anyone doing some fizz so we started with a couple of bottles of the fresh but just a shade toasty Satin La Montina Franciacorta. I really ought to get to know what's what with Franciacorta, beyond Ferrari and Ca'del Bosco I am just not that knowledgeable.

Then time for some white and we started with "Jazz Hand's" magnum - Meursault Les Grands Charrons 2009 from Boisson-Vadot. I've been lucky enough to drink a decent amount of Boisson-Vadot but never have I had it from magnum before. This had all the smokey, slight reduction you expect of this producer and the richness you expect of 2009, a really decadent start to proceedings. Alongside this was Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Jubilee Spatlese 2008 from Schloss Schonborn from bottle. This wine was served in the same room at Mrs D-B's 40th so it seem appropriate to have it again. Lovely Rhine richness with the middle ground of Spatlese, a wine to just enjoy, no pretence.

And on to the reds! Tignanello 1986 was a really easy wine to quaff, not to say it was not more serious but it had slightly lost a sense of place. It wasn't showing the Sangiovese acidity and it's kind owner was a little disappointed as it was from "his" vintage (youngster!). I liked it just think that 5 years ago it would have had that bit more personality. 

It's partner was my offering, Cascina Francia Barbera 2008 from Giacomo Conterno, my thinking being that it is a producer I love and we (C&B) even did a dinner here with Roberto. On the other hand none of the Conterno wines are what could be remotely called mature so this seemed a good compromise. It drank well, still good rich dark cherry fruit but with that cool saline edge you always get from the site, wonderfully food friendly as ever. That was my last mag but I do still have a bottle somewhere.

The next flight was unplanned but set itself up as a great pairing. Two of the top names from respective banks in Bordeaux. Both top estates. VCC (Vieux Chateau Certan) 1998

and Palmer 1998 . Having them then served blind I was delighted to get them the right way round. Anyone in the trade who says they aren't relieved to get this right especially after 10+ years in bottle is probably lying. The VCC had real poise and such balance, really lovely, young yes but not infanticide at all. If you have a case of this (in bottles) then don't be afraid to have a bottle of two now, you'll be missing out otherwise. The Palmer actually tasted to be a little more mature, a little more developed (2nd base may be), not quite the layers of the VCC but splendid.

The next two bottles, from Mr Rafferty were a treat - Rauzan Segla 1947 a BBR bottling - was exuberantly sweet and reminded me of some of the 1955's I have been lucky enough to have had. A lovely bottle and so fitting to have something this old and special on a night like this. Hermitage 1994 from Chave has no right to be anything like as soft and lovely and just downright delicious as it is. The vintage is not great but then how many times do us wine lovers have to be told "producer, producer, producer".

One special glass got passed back to us in the Pdr from the main restaurant and it was the really rather lovely Sori San Lorenzo 1990 from Gaja a real treat from Mr Bowker.

Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Spatlese 1989 from Schloss Schonborn (another coincidence to have this) finished us off for the evening in some style, oily and menthol fresh with good acidity. Is it wrong to say that I think people were concentrating more on the puddings by then.

It was great that Sam (Harris) managed to pop in and join us for a glass here and there.

The end had come - I've loved Zucca and shared so many wonderful times there…I am sure it'll be back. Thanks to all those who have brought bottles and served them, cooked and given great service I am not singling anyone out as it was a team effort…onwards!

Piedmont - Conterno & Negri

My favourite producer trip every year will not surprise anyone at all, well anyone who knows me. It is the one where we go to see and taste with Roberto Conterno at Cantina Giacomo Conterno in Piedmont. This year I have managed to do the tasting there twice within a month (another post coming soon) which is a rare treat. Often we arrive and taste before dinner but this time we had dinner first, with Roberto and his assistant Stephanie. But before heading to the restaurant we met at Casa della Saracca in Monforte d'Alba, a spot I have got to know well now. If you are in the region and want somewhere really unique to stay or a great place for an aperitif or relaxed evening then this is a great spot. It also has something of a cult following amongst the producers of the region. 

The view south from the top of Casa della Saracca

We had a bottle of Champagne. Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition NV - I really like this and have had it since, good levels of nutty biscuity-ness but not at the expense of drive and acidity, it really is like, lazy analogy coming, "sparkling Meursault".

We then jumped in the car for a Dinner at La Ciau del Tornavento, in Treiso which I'd never been to before but have since been again - I feel it may be somewhere I return as often as possible. It is a great spot with the biggest and best wine cellar I have ever seen, tens of thousands of bottles with particular strength in Italy (of course), Champagne and Burgundy.

In the cellar it was time for apertivo number 2 - Bollinger RD 2002 - this was not showing all that well, a little flat of flavour and overly evolved, further re-enforces by personal taste for bottle aged champagnes rather than late releases.

With dinner we had two reds. Barbaresco Asili Riserva 1996, Giacosa and Barolo Bricco Boschis Riserva San Giuseppe 2004, Cavallotto. The Giacosa needed lots of time in decanter as well as glass to open out but did so in time to reveal a lovely balance. Initially it had been a little reduced and also a little "high" or farmyardy. The Cavallotto was more immediately open and ready for business but in a cool, red fruited yet mineral way a really lovely wine with a long but focussed future, impressive indeed.

It was a lovely dinner in a lovely spot, brilliant to hear from Roberto about the recent purchase of the Arione vineyard and also the almost completed developments at the winery.

9.30 next morning and there we were at the winery ready to taste. Before going onto the wines I must just say that the attention to detail in every facet of the winemaking and bottling process here is incredible from the in-house treatment of the corks and printing to the new just about to arrive bottling line. And so to the wines:

Barbera Francia 2013 - 40yr old vines now and there is always more minerality and salinity here. The 2013 vintage is a cooler one more like 2010 or 2008. This was delicious if still serious, dark fruit but grit as well.

Barbera Cerretta 2013 - 20yr old vines. Juicier and more open fruit, red as well as crimson, almost damson-like. The expression is superb and the amount of fruit just joyous.

Barolo Francia 2011 - The barrell that would have been Monfortino* was added about a month ago.The wine has lovely red fruit precision but again as with the Barbera there is a saline and stones backbone, this is soft now but will grow and tighten, amazing juice. As with Burgundy just forget about whether vintage are stellar or not, find producers you like and buy the wines!

* I asked Roberto which of the of the recent "Non-Monfortino" years - 2011, 2009 and 2007 - was the closest to being a Monfortino and he said 2011 then 2007 and lastly 2009.

Barolo Cerretta 2011 - The differences between this and the Barolo Francia are like those between the Barberas, and possibly explains "terroir" better than any tasting I know.  This Cerretta has more obvious and slightly darker fruit but a little less tannin as well, this is just such a flattering wine right now. Exciting.

Monfortino from barrel is one of the most exciting tastings anyone can experience in my view. The fact that I get to taste the same wine on 2 or 3 occassions from barrel is just brilliant. The 2008 is quite something. The extraordinary dimension to this wine is quite possibly due to the fact that in 2008 there was a phase in September when the temperatures drpped to almost zero and this Roberto feels has added a cerrtain something by tightening and sweetening things.

Monfortino 2008 - A wine with quite incredible complexity of aroma, at the same time fresh and red fruited but also degraded and sweet in a leathery fashion, very precise and linear, this is bottled now. Exciting and so different from 2006 or 2010. May be more like 2004 in fact.

Monfortino 2010 - A wine that is a legend before bottling, the archetypal Barolo both fine and massive, both feminine in purity and masculine in bredth and power. Sublime. Extreme patience will be required once bottled but from the barrell just fabulous. A simply brilliant end to an always superb tasting.

Having done this brillaint tasting and said our good buys at Giacomo Conterno we drove off to La Morra to see a smaller and stylistically different producer - Giulia Negri - who we have just started working with. There is Barolo here as well as Barbera, Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. Giulia is ambitious, young and a lover of Burgundy as well as Piedmont.

The estate is amongst the Serradenari Cru which is the highest in the whole region. Giulia also has some rented holdings in Brunate. The top Barolo is called Tartufaia (the truffle-hunter, named after the estates enthusiastic dog) and is a blend of both Serradinari and Brunate. This works well together as the 2009 shows. I will do a fuller write up of notes in an upcoming blog but Giulia is one to watch with a real drive and desire to succeed, you'd be brave to bet against serious things happening here.

The steepest part of Serradinari 

Tartufo the dog gets himself on the label and the capsule!

Our inflated wagon! (watch the advert for this - Fiat 500L)

And on the third day…several Cantina Giacomo Conterno wines...

Following on from the Monfortino Magnum Monday 1970-2006 and then the Dinner at Zucca the morning of day three we had a very special tasting in the office. We showed the wines below, all double decanted that morning:

Barbera Cerretta 2008

Roberto only took over the vineyard in June 2008 so there this wasn’t fully under his control. Has a nice acidity (that a few people have told me they aren’t mad on) that gives it a precision and nervousness. The fruit is good in a cherry way.

Barbera Cascina Francia 2008

A darker fruit than Cerretta as always. Has the saline “Cascina Francia cool vintage” feel to it. A serious Barbera.

Barbera Cascina Francia 2007

Another bottle from the dinner the night before and a great counterpoint to the 2008, warmer darker more intense with more opulence so less acidity showing.

Barbera Cascina Francia 2011

In many ways a young 2007 but to my mind there will always be an amazing ripeness to this wine and a cleaner less funky note as well. Very good. I’d love to own this and drink a bottle a year for 12 years!

Then to Barolo:

Barolo Cascina Francia 2009

Another fine showing exactly as the previous evening but possibly even better in the morning as you just get the purity. An “insider’s wine” and one I’ll keep track of. (A friend, I respect greatly, who knows Barolo "inside-out" has suggested that Cascina Francia is the very best 2009 Barolo.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2008

I love the 2008 as I see it as the sister to the 2006 (often across the whole region but especially in Cascina Francia). There is a classical earthy, minerality to the fine but with fine features and a poise. I think it may be a modern day 1982. Never a showy wine this will give a lot of pleasure if given the time it deserves.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2007

Like 2009 a warm vintage in which there is no Monfortino. I think this is a wine that has more ripeness than the 2009 and is an excellent example of Roberto knowing when to use a lightness of touch. It is delicious now. The warmer vintages are best served cooler as it accentuates freshness and tightens up a wine that could be too loose. The fruit is starting to degrade a touch which is nice. The strtucture is pretty easy. It will age but to a degree why wait, if you own it I would look to drink half of what you have by the age of 10. Impressive.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2006

Love this, tannin and masculine structure to chew on, very proper. The wine is best left 4-6 years as the strength of this wine will be in its meatiness and savoury aspect. A real treat for the future.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2005

I have always liked the 2005 but find it hard to pin a persona on the wine. The saline side to this is lovely and you get a cool vintage feel. It is a slightly shy and retiring person with intellect. A good performance for a tricky and slightly erratic vintage.  I would leave 2-3 years and then drink. There is good fruit purity here even if it is slightly reticent at the moment.

Barolo Cascina Francia 1990

Really, really lovely, bruised dark fruit and an easy structure, I have had this a few times now and love it’s easiness. I often wonder if my perception of most 1990’s being easy and opulent clouds my judgement but I think not. I think this is perfect now.

Barolo Cascina Francia 1982

A decent if not great bottle of this wine. A little oxidated and frazzle-like but with vibrancy of sweet leather. I like it but you have to like earth the acidity for this bottle of this wine.

Barolo Monfortino 2004

So so elegant, I’ve pinned my colours to the mast of this being perfect and the freshness of red fruit combined with elegant but firm structure give me no reason to change that.

A fascinating tasting.

NB - Since then I have had the Barbaresco 1971 from Conterno…a wine very rarely made and it was lovely, amazingly fine grained sediment that you couldn’t get rid of gave this a chalky “bricky” texture which I like. The colour was holding up well as was the acidity…fascinating wine. I’d love to know where it was sourced from. The winemaking must have been as for Barolo as this did taste like "Conterno".

Roberto Conterno Dinner at Zucca

This dinner was a long time coming but, possibly slightly arrogantly, was well worth the wait. My favourite producer and my favourite restaurant.

When we are planning these dinners there will always be an advanced party 2-3 weeks before and to taste the menu and go over any potential tweaks  that may be required. In this instance so well does Sam Harris (Chef owner of Zucca) know the wines and what we were after that all 6 courses hit the spot just right. The menu is below:

Tropea Onions, Fonduta & Hazelnuts

Vitello Tonnato (done two ways)

Yellow Polenta, Peas, Broad Beans and Castelmagmo

Agnolotti, Butter & Parmesan

Slow Cooked Ox Cheek, Chicory, Borlotti, Pine Nuts & Raisins

Custard Tart & Hazelnut Ice Cream

Through the dinner there were several speeches from Roberto all heart felt. You get a real sense of the responsibility and fortune Roberto feels for being able to head this great estate. He has a great story about make-up too but that might get me in trouble..

The wines we showed were all from the Cascina Francia vineyard, it would have been good to show something from Cerretta (started in 2008) but so small is the production that it was not really an option.

We started with a pair of the Cascina Francia Barbera.

Cascina Francia Barbera 2011

Very pure, inky, rich, has a black forest fruits character. There is minerality but behind the abundance of black cherry. An extrovert wine with a long future.

Cascina Francia Barbera 2007

A little like 2011 (and 2009) this is a warm vintage that really suits Barbera. There is a little savoury grunt here as well as a little bit of “animal”. Fruit is still black with a mellow palate, Cascina Francia’s saline element comes through too. Nice now but no rush.

Then it was onto the Barolo with:

Barolo Cascina Francia 2009

I’ve drunk this a few times and always enjoyed it greatly. There will be no Monfortino in 2009 so that barrel is in here. There is a lovely elegance to this wine and a gentleness but at the same time there is plenty of tannin that is just "under" the fruit. It makes me think of a 1er Cru Volnay in style. I don’t see it shutting down too much. There is an airy freshness to the red fruit that makes this a wine with a massively broad drinking window.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2000 (magnum)

Poised and drinking perfectly now. A little bit of tar with tannins that sit perfectly, there is little salty development and animal in the mix but fundamentally this is still a wine of red and black fruit. Got better and better with the air. Great now but again no rush.

The finale was:

Barolo Monfortino 1998 (magnum)

Tight and taut with slightly pronounced acidity, it is a little dry but has a very leathery and masculine, slightly developed, persona. I think it will suit being an “older” wine. It has a depth to it.

The wine and the food made for a great evening, sparking a lovely atmosphere and much good "chat"!!

"Bravo Roberto" and "Bravo Sam"...