Burgundy Pairs - 2009 and 2010...Coche, Rousseau, Clos de tart...that sort of thing...

2009 & 2010 Burgundy Pairs – Zucca 29/10/15
I'm not quite sure how I missed this blog but I've only just realised that I didn't actually get my notes written up. This is a tasting that I will want to look back at so I think "better late that never" justifies this very tardy posting. Mr East was the kind organiser, for which many thanks, the dinner was a trade affair with one notable exception who arguably drinks better than the rest of the trade put together. The brief was simple; bring two bottles of the same wine, one from 2009 and one from 2010.

For a better write up (with the wines fresh in his mind) have a look at the post by my friend Joss on his blog. The location was Zucca and for me it followed a rather liquid lunch, also a Zucca (I did get back to my desk in between), so my notes are not quite as "robust" as they might be. Plenty has been written about the growing seasons and the perceived styles of wines from 2009 and 2010 so it was interesting to get to taste things side by side.

We started with a Gosset Celebris 2002 from magnum. I have always liked Gosset as a house finding the style to be a good middle ground between the finesse and focus of the Blanc de Blancs houses and the more generous, biscuity style of the Pinot noir orientated producers. This though is 2002 and in magnum, it has a long way to go, briney and almost Chablis like this is moreish and all the better for it. Even in bottle it'll repay another 3-5 years.

We were then into the meat and drink of the evening, whites then reds. First wine was:

Meursault Poruzots 1er Cru, Maison Deux Montille - the 2009 I noted this as generous, slightly degraded with a lush open texture, enjoyable if not massively complex. The 2010 was, as you might expect, steelier, more saline, minerality to the fore. Good texture. "Tonight" I might drink the 2009 half the time but I'd want to own the 2010.

A rare combination.

Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru from Boisson-Vadot - was up next. I am lucky enough to be getting more and more exposure to the wines from this producer, almost always in company with many of the friends at this table which tells it's own tale. The reputation is of being an aspiring "School of Coche" style. The 2009 is a wine with nuttiness, a waxy generous texture whilst being big and pretty bold. It is also kept in a framework that makes it complete enough. The 2010 was pretty spot on it has to be said, driven but not so tight as to miss the point of being Meursault...really enjoyable, a quality wine. It was definitely a harder wine to write a note on which I often take as a positive.

Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru, Coche-Dury - To follow Boisson-Vadot with the very "same" wines from Coche is quite a treat. There was a contrast though which was thought provoking and pattern-breaking. The 2009 in this pairing was better than the 2010. Now there was some questionning of the quality of the 2010 bottle but on the grounds that it was not corked and not oxized I feel that (for now, though god only knows if/when I'll ever have it again) I shouldn't just say "not valid". The 2009 was great, open but with good focus, reduced and with that lovely (if you like it as I do) whiff of gunpowder and struck match. There is a school of thought that with Coche being an early picker he over performs the perception of vintages that are often described as "warm" or even "hot". He certainly seems to have nailed 2005, not that this is news to anyone. The 2010 was too limey, too steely, then a little dry and ultimately had a slight dry toffee note...I just concluded "odd, odd, odd". So rather than worry about the 2010 I think it is worth noting the 2009 is exceptional and that to dismiss 2009 as a possibly sub par white wine vintage vintage is dangerous, generalisations alwasy are, especially in Burgundy.

That concluded the whites, there were a few pairs I had been tempted to take and will continue to look at whites from 2009 and 2010. My thoughts on 2009 and 2010 whites from this and other tastings are that the styles of the wines made in these years are more different than the pure quality assessment. In 10 years time would a tasting see 2010 hailed as better? Yes I think so BUT 2010 will always come with more expectation and sadly, human nature to blame here, more disappointments. For the next 2-5 years I would just serve 2009 whites cooler and undecanted, whereas 2010's I would decant and let breathe. If you don't put too much though into it there is a lot of fun to be had with 2009.

Start of the reds

The reds:

Volnay Champans 1er Cru, Lafon - I do not have that much experience with Lafon, an iconic producer, and was enthused to taste. I think I came out of this pair with more questions than answers. The main problems is that I love the Pinot-ness of Volnay. I would argue that actually if you look for the essence of Pinot then Volnay is the place to go, not to say it is my favourite village in Burgundy for reds but it one that far too many people overlook (to digress a little it is like people buying Barolo and ignoring Barbaresco). The 2009 was a wine I would never has called as Pinot let alone Burgundy. Minty, rich, savoury, with high acidity, this was more Brunello-like than anything. I would love to try this as an older wine. I have a feeling, more a gut feel, that it may get to "mature" status quickly but then actually mellow nicely. The 2010 had the same weight but more focus, still a shade crude for me and certainly a wine with a frame that would suit Gevrey rather than Volnay.

Volnay Champans 1er Cru from d’Angerville - Bias aside this is more the Volnay I know. The 2009 smacked of a wine made to be deliberately toned down. You might expect the warmer 2009 vintage to produce a bigger wine but with this as a pair the 2010 had the slightly darker fruit and the 2009 was redder, glossier, may be more feminine. The 2010 is, for me, comfortably the greater wine here. Refined and long with lovely focus and minerality, this is persistent and impresive.

Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru by Comte Armand - This 2009 played well to the vintage character, it was opulent and slightly "slutty", a little glossy with oak showing but not too much. The 2010 was more saturated with fruit, moreish and mouthwatering, worthy of good ageing. Whilst I haven't written masses here I was very impressed with this pair.

Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Rousseau - We had a few issues in voting on the next two pairs - a good "1st world problem". I was slightly out on my own in preferring the 2009, slightly as a means of being contrary but I think I just preferred it. The 2009 so enjoyable to drink right now, ripe but correctly so, a lovely salinity to this and just a delicious meld of red and black fruit. The 2010 had an element of star anise and some spice, this was a shade darker of fruit. A stunning pair and one that proves that quality producers do their stuff every year.

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques 1er Cru by Fourrier - I'd love to try more Fourrier. The 2009 was a little like Burgundy on steroids which I think is how a few people perceive the vintage and if there is balance this is not an issue. There is density to this and a certain boldness too. The 2010 is lovely real Grand Cru stuff, the structure of dark fruit with the freshness of red fruit...pretty smart!

Clos de Tart Grand Cru - This wasn't long after Clos de Tart day that I wrote up. I agree with Joss' comments that these might have shown better earlier in the flights. The development over the course of Sylvain Pitiot's time at Clos de Tart has been towards purity and elegance over power. This bottle of 2009 I didn't think was showing quite as well as some but was still decent. The 2010 I think is a very very fine bottle with freshness and more red ruit than you might expect as well a little spice. A wine I really look forward to following over the next few decades.

My conclusions on the reds are not that different from the whites. Burgundy as ever is all about the producer and their interpretation of the vintage. If you bought 2009's and 2010's from producers you like, you did the right thing.

I haven't mentioned the food, this was Zucca, so it was good. The chat was, as ever, as much fun as you make it. These dinners always act to remind me, in case I forget, what a fun trade it is that we all work in...well done all...there was chat of a 2009/2010 Bordeaux follow up...

The last Hurrah...

When the news of the end - for now - of Zucca came out there was quick booking made by fellow Zucca addict - Mr Rafferty for the last but one night, the last night would have been too much.

So nine of us including Mrs Duvault-Blochet joined together for a dinner. The theme being the last bottle from a case, any case. When I say bottle in true style most people brought a magnum or two bottles. This was a very relaxed evening with much opinion expressed and piss-taking. New friends made. We ate from the "normal" menu and rattled off the classics:

Zucca Friti

Carpaccio of Sea Bass

Burrata with Cavalo Nero

Beef Carpaccio

Vitello Tonnato

Squid Bruscetta

-

Taglierini, Pork & Fennel Ragu
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Grilled Octopus

Veal Chop
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Chocolate SemiFreddo

We hadn't managed to co-ordinate anyone doing some fizz so we started with a couple of bottles of the fresh but just a shade toasty Satin La Montina Franciacorta. I really ought to get to know what's what with Franciacorta, beyond Ferrari and Ca'del Bosco I am just not that knowledgeable.

Then time for some white and we started with "Jazz Hand's" magnum - Meursault Les Grands Charrons 2009 from Boisson-Vadot. I've been lucky enough to drink a decent amount of Boisson-Vadot but never have I had it from magnum before. This had all the smokey, slight reduction you expect of this producer and the richness you expect of 2009, a really decadent start to proceedings. Alongside this was Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Jubilee Spatlese 2008 from Schloss Schonborn from bottle. This wine was served in the same room at Mrs D-B's 40th so it seem appropriate to have it again. Lovely Rhine richness with the middle ground of Spatlese, a wine to just enjoy, no pretence.

And on to the reds! Tignanello 1986 was a really easy wine to quaff, not to say it was not more serious but it had slightly lost a sense of place. It wasn't showing the Sangiovese acidity and it's kind owner was a little disappointed as it was from "his" vintage (youngster!). I liked it just think that 5 years ago it would have had that bit more personality. 

It's partner was my offering, Cascina Francia Barbera 2008 from Giacomo Conterno, my thinking being that it is a producer I love and we (C&B) even did a dinner here with Roberto. On the other hand none of the Conterno wines are what could be remotely called mature so this seemed a good compromise. It drank well, still good rich dark cherry fruit but with that cool saline edge you always get from the site, wonderfully food friendly as ever. That was my last mag but I do still have a bottle somewhere.

The next flight was unplanned but set itself up as a great pairing. Two of the top names from respective banks in Bordeaux. Both top estates. VCC (Vieux Chateau Certan) 1998

and Palmer 1998 . Having them then served blind I was delighted to get them the right way round. Anyone in the trade who says they aren't relieved to get this right especially after 10+ years in bottle is probably lying. The VCC had real poise and such balance, really lovely, young yes but not infanticide at all. If you have a case of this (in bottles) then don't be afraid to have a bottle of two now, you'll be missing out otherwise. The Palmer actually tasted to be a little more mature, a little more developed (2nd base may be), not quite the layers of the VCC but splendid.

The next two bottles, from Mr Rafferty were a treat - Rauzan Segla 1947 a BBR bottling - was exuberantly sweet and reminded me of some of the 1955's I have been lucky enough to have had. A lovely bottle and so fitting to have something this old and special on a night like this. Hermitage 1994 from Chave has no right to be anything like as soft and lovely and just downright delicious as it is. The vintage is not great but then how many times do us wine lovers have to be told "producer, producer, producer".

One special glass got passed back to us in the Pdr from the main restaurant and it was the really rather lovely Sori San Lorenzo 1990 from Gaja a real treat from Mr Bowker.

Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Spatlese 1989 from Schloss Schonborn (another coincidence to have this) finished us off for the evening in some style, oily and menthol fresh with good acidity. Is it wrong to say that I think people were concentrating more on the puddings by then.

It was great that Sam (Harris) managed to pop in and join us for a glass here and there.

The end had come - I've loved Zucca and shared so many wonderful times there…I am sure it'll be back. Thanks to all those who have brought bottles and served them, cooked and given great service I am not singling anyone out as it was a team effort…onwards!

Team Dinner…BYO @ POTG

So Joe and Valentina  co-ordinated everyone doing a team meal at Planet of the Grapes Bow Lane Restaurant…bring a bottle or buy a bottle was the order of the day and the format very relaxed. We kicked off with a few whites:

Bourgogne Aligote Raisins Dores 2010, Domaine Michel Lafarge - A wine I love, I've sadly finished my case of 2008, always more richness than you associate with this sometimes sour grape, the 201 was a little muted but good, best in another 12-18 months I recon, a nice start...

St.Veran Les Deux Moulin 2012, Louis Latour was next, dent with good minerality but just a shaw too much "safety first wine making" may be.

Meursault Les Grands Charrons 2009, Boisson-Vadot - Rich and slightly reduced as always here, the only thing that hinted at 2009 was the vey end of the finish, this is classy wine with good texture and a nice future, quite a treat.

L'Effronte Moelleux 2007, Domaine Matrot - Ok so there aren't many sweet aligotes out there, this wine is ageing well and has a great capacity for food matching, think if anything where you want youthful Sauternes like flavours but without the viscosity.   

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Petit Chapelle 2011, Rossignol-Trapet was the first red and sadly we discarded it, I didn't think it was corked but it was almost metallic, interestingly we left it and the next day Matt at Planet of the Grapes said it was delicious and asked why we hadn't drunk it. Strange.

Volnay 1er Cru Taillpieds 2008, de Montille - this was very elegant, very volnay (red fruits and feminity), and also very 2008 by which i mean pure and focussed in an almost lean way, very cool pinot, a style I love but so different from 2009 for instance, good wine!

Then were off to Piedmont with Barolo La Tartufaia 2009, Giulia Negri which showed well though I am not sure 2009 is their type of vintage especially, I have been there since this meal so will do a blog about Negri soon - it's a very interesting estate. My two bottles were next. 

Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta 2008, Giacomo Conterno which is a one I know well, the first vintage from the site by Roberto (he only completed the purchase in June 2008) it is a very pure, slightly lighter, Nebbiolo expression - I really like it. The other of my choices was Barolo Pie Rupestris 2009, Cappellano as I wanted to try it for the first time, no disappointment here, rich and full but not heavy, this will age well and hopefully help me keep my hands off the 2008 and 2010. Class producer for sure.

Coudoulet de Beaucastel Rouge 2009 kicked of a quick trip to the Rhone valley, a nee wine that is drinking now and remains a real value buy (in quite a serious bottle now also).

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee des Felix 2000, Domaine Bois de Boursan was a few people wine of th night and I could see why, real depth and power but not brutish, impressive.

Lovat Vineyard “Amarath” Syrah 2006 from Dry River was the slight intruder in the Rhone flight and had a good deep Syrah nose, black fruit and cool stones/iron...the only problem was a slightly hollow palate, the finish returned well though.

Things the became a little surreal…a cracking Langedoc wine that I had never had was next, good herbal fruit and an easy but present structure it was Peyre Rose 2005, Clos de Cistes, awful label but then that it what decanters are for. I'll look it out again at some stage.

Calon Segur 2000 was predicable good and try proper, fir and masculine but in no way harsh, good length, good fruit, sartingto hit it's stride, a treat.

Gérard Depardieu Référence 2012 a Vin de Pays d'oc was extraordinary in it cheap tasting primary, almost carbonic nose, fortunately it was someones second (I hope) joke bottle, we had a good discussion about it but sadly it took a little bit of a hammering...

And so to the last wine of a fun evening - La Tour Blanche 2007 - just lovely, drinking well, an estate I really like (their 2014 is great) and who never go for power over focussed drive in my opinion. At this age it would work just as well before dinner as after it…

A lot of fun…next team outing will be part two of this...BBQ Chez Duvault Blochet

White Burgundy 2010's and food at Trinity...

In a "follow-on" from a similar tasting of 2008 White Burgundies (see here) a slightly different collection of ten current and past members of the trade and a few collectors joined together to taste 25 white Burgundies from the 2010 vintage. The first half of the wines were tasted at our hosts house and then the remainder at the really great Trinity Restaurant (another diner I have had at Trinity can be read about here). All wines were just poured from bottle and tasted as they are. The one exception is the Chablis which had been double decanted. The wines were tasted in 3's or 4's and within their communes. There are lots of vintage reports about the 2010's it is viewed as a very good to excellent vintage for red and whites.

Flight 1:

Bourgogne Aligote, Coche Dury - If you love white Burgundy and haven't had wines from Coche Dury then you really are missing out. This is the first time I have had his Aligote, in short the nose is pure Coche which means "struck match" and mineral intensity as well as very refined oak. The palate and finish was pure Aligote...green, gooseberries and tart, nice. 16/20.

Flight 2:

The Puligny's

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes, Sauzet - A kind contribution from an absent friend. was quite closed initially but there was density here, a little of that late-harvest richness then a more savoury mid-palate, a little oak too but not too much, quite easy and not far off ready to drink. 16.5-17/20

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres, Francois Carillon - corked - a real shame as I have had this a few times and enjoyed it.
Puligny Montrachet 1er Caillerets, de Montille - Clean and possibly an little neutral to start but then does open out a little, some lemon shortbread. Actually in good balance, I liked this, impressive. 17/20

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon, Domaine Leflaive - Generally the least prized of the Domaines 1er Crus. This stole the show in the Puligny round (by 8 votes to 2) was was both taut and big at the same time, plenty of fruit under a currently savoury structure, some really good lemon freshness. 18/20

Flight 3:

Chassagne Montrachet, Marc Antonin-Blain - Not a terribly clean example, green fruit then a goey more evolved palate and texture, not scored.
Chassagne Montrachet Tete du Clos, Benjamin Leroux - The "winner" of the Chassagne selection. Easily worthy of 1er Cru and a good one. A big wine with savoury richness and a very well integrated and quite large wood component. I would probably have been in Meursault if it had been blind, very good 18/20

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Caillerets, Jean Noel Gagnard - Almost a slight spritz here I thought, a little spice and then pears and peaches, a dry and almost tannic finish, just a little awkward. 15/20

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Maltroie, Fontaine Gagnard - Quite toasty and open, a little sweaty on the palate and nose but not badly so. Not massively great, ok. Unexciting but open for business and a drinker. 16/20 

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Boudriotte, Fontaine Gagnard - Sweaty socks but nicely so, good fruit, initially I was unsure but it got better and better, quite full. 16.5/20

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Boudriotte, Gagnard Delagrange - Clean and green, pure Chardonnay nose, a little closed but in a good way. I liked this. 17/20

Flight 4:

Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray - This got a very mixed review, I really liked it in my biased way and felt it showed well, I've never seen Bonneau criticised for being "too big" but it was here. I felt the opposite, all in check and good. 17/20

Corton Charlemagne, Lemoine - Richer and more oaked, a little too much for me (as a small aside the bottle had the biggest punt I have ever seen), spiced with good acidity which it needed, a "volume turned up wine" not necesarrily very Corton Charlemagne like. 16.5/20

Flight 4a:

Chablis Grand Cru Preuses, Dauvissat - As mentioned above this had been opened at 5pm and double decanted. It was very pure, very chablis and faultless but therein there lies "the slight" the problem, there just wasn't the excitement you might want, this is not to be overly critical and it was still very good. 17.5/20

Flight 5:

Meursault, Coche Dury - This lacked the Coche nose that was expected and actually was possibly not the best bottle of this, not corked though, it was just a bit loose on the nose and on re-visiting did start to show bruised apples etc 16/20 but tempting not to score it as I imagine the true reflection is much higher.

Meursault Grands Charrons, Boisson Vadot - One of the most talked about producers at the moment and from the 4-5 wines I have had, justifiably so. This was a very Coche like nose a dash of reduction but mostly a struck match and quality smoked oak. Good fruit under it to, not massively subtle but very much a drinkers wine. 17.5/20

Meursault Chevaliers, Boisson Vadot - Not the rich opulent nose of the Grands Charrons but I would say certainly a step up in poise, fruit weight and refinement very impressive and one of the wines that was multi-dimensional. 18/20

Meursault Tete de Murgers, Javillier - This got slightly split reviews it certainly had more opulence, but not oak, more exotic fruit flavours and more expressive almost new world-ish. I liked it's different approach. 17/20

Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres, Bouzereau - This was decent but had a slightly distracting bed of acidity that was a little hard to see passed. It was a greener type of fruit too, still ripe but with a zing. 16/20 

Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres, Lafon - corked
Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres, Lafon - One of the real stars, a very exciting wine, lemon and oak richness, savoury underneath, good acidity and just all round impressive. True Meursault, very fine. 18.5/20

Flight 6:

Batard Montrachet, Fontaine Gagnard - Grapefruit was the first thing that sprung to mind here, a little hollow also but that all sounds too negative, it was decent but didn't really have the masculine depth of Batard for me. 16.5/20

Batard Montrachet, Roche de Bellene - More texture and depth that the first on the palate but still quite closed. Good but not really Grand Cru quality for me. 16.5-17/20

Batard Montrachet, Leflaive - Very good as you would expect but a little like the Fontaine Batard it was almost too refined, may be these 10's just need time to add some weight. Also a little less oaked than I might expect from Leflaive Batard. There was definite class though. 17.5-18/20

Batard Montrachet, Gagnard Delagrange - This was the most "old-skool" of the Batards and possibly all the wines. More saline on the nose, almost a little tannin too, a little dry but with grapefruit (but not tart). Not at all over the top, would be an interesting wine to follow. 17-17.5/20

Conclusion on 2010 Whites:
I was left a little subdued and slightly confused. The Lafon Perrieres, the Leflaive Cavoillon and the Boisson Vadot's (for contrasting styles) gave some excitement but generally I expected a little more focus, zest and excitement. A good vintage? Yes and to my mind better than the 2008's BUT I think the main lesson for me was that in White Burgundy generalising about a vintage is next to pointless. From producer to producer the styles are different, the use of oak and the time of picking so crucial that it is more a house style one needs to find than a vintage.

There were a couple of reds shown too. Firstly (open) was Dry River Pinot 1996 - was really good very full fruited, both red and black fruit there. It had a nice aged quality and is great now. Served blind was Romanee St Vivant 1990, Louis Latour, wishing to get the embarrassment out the way early I was actually moving towards older northern Rhone, the only doubt I had was the depth of the wine in colour and on the palate. Some went for southern rhone other Burgundy but it was a novelty rather than profound wine, fun though.

And that was that, a fun evening, generously organised and hosted with great food and a lot of chat...what vintage next time...?

The first of our two starters...I could eat it everyday!

A cracking Scallop dish.

Pork Loin anyone?