Elystan Street - a first evening...

A rather splendid email arrived from Gary Birchtree (not his real name!) suggesting a dinner in the private room of Philip Howard's new restaurant Elystan Street on opening night. It was not a hard invite to accept. I have loved The Square (where he is now not involved) and Kitchen W8 (where he still is). The rest of the crowd was wine trade friends. The only disturbing part of the evening was discovering that I was the second oldest, only Mr Sherwood keeping be from the ultimate seniority.   

So we gathered, after a ten-minute stroll from Sloane Square tube for me, in the private room and were "treated" to 1992 En Tirage Extra Brut Russian River Valley Sparkling Wine. Our organiser who had sent this did two things one good (for him) and one bad. The good thing was that he arrived late having sent the wine on, the bad thing was sending three bottles. One would have been enough. An enticing nose but a dead palate, may be unfair in this company but probably better a while ago. Certainly not in the same league as the other "sparkler" later.

This was an evening about: Food, venue, company and wine. So to cover off the food it was all superb! There was no dish I would not have wanted more of (greed) or would not happily order again many times. The menu is below.

Ravioli of Langoustines with barbecue dressing, hispi Cabbage and sweetcorn.

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Roast calf’s sweetbread with truffled autumn slaw, seeded nut butter and mimolette.

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Rump of lamb with pesto roasted aubergine, garlic puree, green olives and balsamic vinegar.

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Roasted figs with goats milk ice cream, lemon and thyme fritters and olive oil

or

Cheese

It was time now for a flight of whites. The first and last of which were from (two) bottle(s) the Drouhin being a magnum. The Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 1999, F.Raveneau bottles were both good ones, the first possibly just edging it for energy. Wax and lanolin with a very "proper" Chablis nose, a little of that dry-honey character. Mature on the plate but still with good vibrancy, a cracking wine in a good place. Beaune Clos des Mouches 1996, Drouhin was an imposing magnum and one might say a brave one. There was a dash of coffee on the nose, this was broad but not loose, I'd have been in Meursault if blind I think. Mature and with a decadent texture, nice wine. We then switched to the Loire with Pur sang 2011, Dagueneau. I don't know the Dagueneau wines all that well but have enjoyed what I have tried. This was expressive, quite broad and open, a little tropical but with enough of the nettle character though not sharp nettles, warm ones if that makes any sense. It was a splendid trio all in all.

Les blancs...

Interestingly we were not "packing any Pinot" on this occasion so we moved straight to Nebbiolo with an intriguing trio, three different sites and three different vintages all in magnum. Young Nebbiolo is something people should not, in my opinion, miss out on. Barbaresco Montestefano 2008 from Produttori del Barbaresco kicked us off. This had a more open and more warm vintage feel that I expected. It was very easy to enjoy from this underestimated vintage. These are such good wines. Barolo La Tartufaia 2010 from Giulia Negri was up next, a blend of Nebbiolo from two crus - Serradenari and Brunate - showing a good degraded fruit and easy drinkability even now though it will age very well. Barolo Cannubi Boschis 2011 from Sandrone completed the Piedmont trio. There is a tar and texture feel to this, it has a tiny hint of toffee from wood but is ultimately both rich and balanced. Good spices too, a wine with a broad drinking window, as could be said for all these.

The three Piedmonteers...

It was Bordeaux next and a good threesome. La Lagune 2001 got us started and I have to say La Lagune isn't necessarily an estate that I get excited about, have they made some lovely wines? yes definitely but I mentally file it under "dependable" rather than "exciting". This 2001, in magnum as were the wines that followed, was delicious and certainly exciting. Lifted with a good bit of sappy liveliness and then a driven and energetic, almost red fruited palate...simply lovely. The La Conseillante 1999 was darker fruited and from a clearly less great vintage, it was good and very true to the house but just a little muddied in comparison to the La Lagune. Tasted and drunk on its own it'd be splendid. The most different of the Bordeaux was Palmer 1976 (a BBR bottling). A very hot vintage, think 2003 but without the heat spikes just consistently hot and dry. The nose had a citrus element, sweet and tarry, mellow in tannin, gently moreish. A wine it was terrific to try and a good drink too.

As we moved towards pudding or cheese we had an eclectic last flight. Two bottles of Clos de Bourg 1989 Moelleux 1er Trie from Huet had that lovely combination of zesty acidity and generous sweetness...a sweet wine I could certainly just drink alone and as an aperitif or with food (both pudding and/or cheese). Zippy apples and a dash of honey. Then Champagne - Moet & Chandon 1978 “Grand Vintage Collection“ (Disgorged 2004) - which reminded me of dry honey and a rancio character with good energy, a little of that "late-disgorgement" cocoa character. A lovely toasty finish, a wine at its peak now I think, well to my style anyway. Champagne later in a meal is a good idea I think. I am not sure why a bottle of Ornellaia 2000 was opened but I am glad it was, quite savoury and bold, a little bit of Bovril, good darker fruits and enough acidity.

And that, as they say, was that...a thoroughly enjoyable evening and a lovely restaurant that I will certainly be returning too!! As for the company...well the wine trade remains a place for fun, often opinionated, folk...long may it continue.

OS Wine Lunch and my first "Chez Bruce"...

This was actually the second gathering of Old Shirburnians who find themselves in the wine trade! The first being at the now no more, Zucca (wipes tear from eye). We managed to span all the years from 1977 to 1995 with the exception of the academic year '82-'83 but this is under control for the next "meeting".Those present are listed at the bottom of this post.

The venue was chosen and co-ordinated by, organiser-in-chief, Meels and was to be "Chez Bruce" which has long been on my "must visit" list! I was not disappointed one bit, delicious food, well balanced with an emphasis on what I am going to call gentle properness. My only gripe, entirely unjustified, is the location. I desperately need - in a "first world problem" sort of way - a restaurant like this or Kitchen W8, Medlar, La Trompette in North London.

Anyway, once "Larry" had made the long trek from practically next door to the restaurant and only been 25 minutes late we were off and running. No theme just bring a bottle or two...

We kicked off with Nyetimber Tillington Single Vineyard 2009 - first time I have had this and I have to say I was very impressed, good bit of toasty richness but nicely refined and very balanced. No more biscuity than a perfect bit of shortbread, very nice start (well for 8 of us...).

As we cracked on with the starters it was time for some Chardonnay with Californian leading the way before two Burgs. Hapgood Chardonnay 2012, Brewer-Clifton was lovely, rich and full but not smokey, more about the intensity of rich tropical yet mellow fruit. There is acidity there but behind the richness, waxy. Went very well with my Curried smoked haddock with spiced fish pastilla, crisp onions and coriander.

The Burgs were - Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2007 from E.Sauzet and 

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes 2009 from Domaine M.Niellon. Not that it's a competition but the Sauzet pipped it for me here, probably more down to the drive of the 2007 vintage than producer. The Sauzet was crisp with a little richness there but had good energy and is spot on, to my taste, right now. The Niellon, and I am getting to know this producer a little through recent experience, was good but needs drinking and had a slightly looser feel. I am being picky though, it was lovely.

Our "compulsory" middle course of Crab Ravoli worked well with the magnum of Cassis 2014, Clos St.Magdeleine. Clean fresh and wonderfully unpretentious this just flew down.

And so to the reds Spur Ranch Grenache 2014, La Marea kicked us off, another selection from our American evangelist, a very elegant Pinot-like feel to the texture and weight but contrasted by an almost northern Rhone pencil shavings and graphite scenario, nicely done. Corton Grand Cru Clos des Cortons 2008, Faiveley then followed, a very gently handled Burgundy, more Cote de Beaune in feel than the grittiness of Corton. I really like the 2008 reds they have an elegant leanness.

Time for some Rhone as the conversation continued its predicted decline.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois 2003, Domaine de la Mordorée and Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1990, Vieux Telegraph were the pair and I have to say I really enjoyed both. The Vieux Telegraph is in a lovely place, degraded and mellowed but still together, no real upside to keeping it I imagine but lovely now. The Mordoree had all the good characteristics of 2003, richness, ripeness and slightly dry fruit but none of the over extraction or over ripeness. Love the Rhone more and more.

Off to Italy for Biserno 2010 by Tenuta di Biserno (I am biased), I possibly miss-judged this by having it decanted for quite a while. It might have been better with less air as it had tightened up, still lovely though. Rich full and decadent!

Rieussec 1976 was a very thoughtful selection with a handful of those present born in this warm (hot) vintage. It was just like the top of a creme brulee, rich, decadent and lovely with the tart and the cheese. I had brought along another bottle that i love showing people and had no intention of carrying it all the way home - Barolo Serradenari 2011 from Giulia Negri was the wine in question. From the highest Cru site in the Barolo region, elegant and poised, lovely young Barolo.

A splendid afternoon (early evening if you include the beers) that made it all rather obvious why we'd all ended up in the trade…we like wearing pink shirts and talking (mostly) nonsense…onwards to round 3 which may aptly be held on 1st April... 


Present: (age order, ladies first!)
Amelia Jukes (Pinsent) SSG (89-94)
Jo Thompson (Haycock) SSG (89-94)
Julian Chamberlen (77-82)
Tom Ashworth (83-88)
Rory Benham (86-91)
Peter Richards (89-94)
Will Hargrove (89-94)
James Mason (89-94)
David Porter (90-95)

Olivier Leflaive 2015's with Franck Grux...

Each year we are delighted to welcome Franck Grux to London to do a tasting of the, just to be released, vintage from Olivier Leflaive, last year it was the 2014s so of course this year it follows that it is the 2015s. Franck speaks with incredible passion and has been at Olivier's right hand for many many years now.

This year we started with a new project, a Champagne. This is a Blanc de Blancs from Avize made as a joint project between Olivier and Erick de Sousa in so much as Erick is a shareholder. The name comes from the fact that both men have sons called Valentin.

Champagne Valentin, Olivier Leflaive - This sees 4 years on the lees and is a minute production of only about 7000 bottles. The dosage is low, but not painfully so, at 4.5g. I liked the style. Good richness, butter, toast and shortbread but with freshness and drive. The plate finished with a little cashew nut. I really look forward to following this wine and project over the years.

Now we were onto the 2015 vintage tasting. There is a very thorough and opinionated vintage report  by Franck and Philippe Grillet to be found HERE.

Bourgogne Aligoté Récolte du Domaine - Very primary, pear then really quite rasping but not acidic, the palate is more open and easy with a clean, if indistinct, finish.

Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles - Citrus, rich nose but not OTT, good salty bite, nice volume to the palate, almost ready to go. This comes from as many as 75 vineyards, split roughly 60/40 between Puligny and Meursault.

Montagny 1er Cru  Bonneveaux - from a parcel with vines in the 40-45 years old range. 90% Barrel aged and 10% tank. Very light colour, good generous palate with less easily defined aromas. Lime rather than lemon, a good wine, less volume that the Les Setilles right now. Good.

Rully 1er Cru Rabourcé - Ripe lemon and rounded citrus, good acidity and drive, lovely wine. Always comes from the same four vineyards. 85% Barrel aged and 15% tank.

Pernand-Vergelesses - 6 different suppliers contribute here. 100% barrel. Very classy nose, complex, gives off the impression of a cooler site (which it is). Steely with a classy length...

Auxey-Duresses la Macabrée - An interesting combination of 60% old vines and 40% younger vines. 100% barrel of which 20% is new. A little more battonage too. Lemon and some honey, good depth and weight which hints towards the mini-Meursault that this is. It comes from three contracts and the sites are next to Meursault Les Luchets and Les Vireuils. A good buy.

Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir - A little "good greenness", stones and limes. This does see barrel fermentation but no new wood at all. This is a shade neutral at this early stage but then that is no surprise.  

Meursault Clos du Cromin - 11 barrels go into making this. 100% barrel, of which 20% are new. No battonage. A little toasty character and a whiff of reduction. Delicious, generous, a little butter, the palate has just enough "zip" to keep this "honest". Cracking wine in 2015.

Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots - This is owned by Olivier Leflaive, the first wine from here for them was 1990. 8 barrels in total. Less, if any, reduction, more focus than the Cromin. More steely, good if a little muted, needs time, got better with air.

Chassagne-Montrachet Les Blanchots - Lime and lemon richness, good balance, nice bit of green drive. The palate has a tautness, nicely done...

Puligny-Montrachet Les Meix -  Always a favourite of mine, this lieu-dit is near both Les Pucelles and Les Enseigneres. A nice bit of toast, more lemon in character, good generosity.

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts - Classy, tighter, good refined minerality, serious wine this, focused citrus. An obvious candidate for some ageing. 

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot Récolte du Domaine - Lovely clean freshness here, less non-fruit flavours, good purity. Really lovely length.


A really great tasting with good insights all the way through. The 2015s are clearly good wines. posibly without the poise and drive of the more classic years like 2010 and 2014 but very good and will be lovely to drink while the 2014s are waited for, clearly there is more richness than the nice (in a good way) 2011s and 2013s. 

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The previous night Rebecca, Margaux, Robbie and I had taken Franck to 67 Pall Mall for a relaxed dinner with 4 wines all served blind. Hyde de Villaine Chardonnay 2011, Guru 2011 from Wine & Soul, Contrada "P" (Porcaria) 2012 from Tenuta di Passopisciaro and Barolo Serradenari 2011 from Giulia Negri.

Franck and the lineup!

It was a cracking time spent discussing the wines and much more. Open minded winemakers are certainly the best. I think the wines that surprised Franck the most were the Hyde Chardonnay for its coolness and the Barolo for its elegance. I am looking forward to Francks visit next year already, although it is too long since I have seen him in Puligny so I should do that first.  

White, red and orange - Giulia comes to Zucca...

Giulia Negri was in town for a few days, a young producer in Barolo who I think has a bright future. She has featured in these two blogs already. One of her great passions outside of the wines of Piedmont is, unsurprisingly, Burgundy. She spends a good amount of time there so I thought what better than to introduce her wines to Sam Harris at Zucca and also have lunch there with four customer friend's - Irish Pete, Andrew, Colin and Winerackd. The drill was simple bring a bottle - Burgundy if you like.

A lovely line-up

We started with the ever poised Delamotte 2002 - showing good focus, a little richness but overall balance, lovely now but no rush…

We had two whites to follow or rather a white and an orange. Meursault 1er Cru Goutte D'Or 2004 from Lafon was the white, this got better and better and fresher and fresher in the glass, initial opening suggested it might be a tad weary but actually 20 minutes or so later it was just rich but still fresh, nice! The orange was Winerackd's bottle - Contra Soarda's 121 BC Vespaiolo 2012 a Veneto Bianco IGT. Now this is more a wine of skin contact that a "natural wine" (not a debate I am getting drawm into). I really liked it - the nose was very reminiscent, as Giulia particularly highlighted, of tomatoes, like cool passata. The plate had more fruit, a little apricot even and it was moreish, I would definitely have it again!

Then it was time for the "main action" - Giulia's wines. We had the 2013 Barbera d'Alba which is such a supple and fresh red, lovely such fruit but with real lift and edge. The Barolo Tartufaia 2009 was next, a blend of fruit from 70% Brunate and 30% Serradenari (where Guilai is based and the highest vineyard in the whole Barolo region). This wine gets better and better with air there is real depth and, I think it is fair to say everyone was impressed. With a good, serious, 2010 to come followed by a beautifully poised 2011 things look good.

So what were to be the final reds? Well a rather lovely pair. Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets 1996 from d'Angerville and Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Cras 1993 from Ghislaine Barthod. The Fremiets had a taut and quite serious nose of cheesecloth and reserved fruit but opened up more and more, it never quite shed it's 1996 straightjacket but was absolutely lovely, savoury but delicately sweet. The Barthod which had come direct from the estate about 2 month earlier was spotless, everything you want from Chamboll really, succulence but also elegance with lovely supple, velvet fruit, it'll keep and it will develop but was just lovely now. As a duo they functioned well just as the whole lunch did…as, almost, always you get good people round a table and bring and bottle and much fun is had! Onwards...

"Foxes behind ears" - Piedmont 2015 - an Epic

Monforte d'Alba

As I hope I manage to portray, this was a fabulous trip. It was the encore to a similar excursion to  Burgundy last May. The aim was simply to introduce this band of vinous brothers - "Fiscali", "Very dusty bottles", '"Geronimo", "Raw" and  "Vestier" - to the joys of Piedmont and Piedmont wines. There had been a warm up dinner at Zucca which set the scene rather well. Events began on the Wednesday night "Chez Fiscali" with a nod to last year and a glimpse at May 2016's potential trip to the Rhone.

Dinner at "CG"

Bandol Rose 2013, Tempier

Ermitage “L’Ermite” 2001, Chapoutier

Condrieu De Poncins 2010, Francois Villard

Morey St Denis Clos Sorbe 2009, Francois Feuillet

Yquem 1999.

There are no notes on the wines here as I was, sadly, yet to join the party, a mistake I had made the previous year as well. The following morning at the airport we were complete - the full half dozen.

Air Fiscali

A couple of halves of Blanc de Blancs NV, Ruinart got us up and running on the flight, a sharpener to get the palate ready for what would be an onslaught on arrival. A quick transfer courtesy of Stefano, our driver for the next few days saw us arrive hungrily at:

Brezza Ristorante, in the town of Barolo itself. The set up here is engaging, un-fussy and authentic. They have a totally unpretentious restaurant serving really good local dishes. A hotel with good rooms (so I am told, ask for rooms on the second or third floor to get the view). Brezza is a far more serious producer than the restaurant and hotel set up would suggest. By this I mean normally if someone does all three there is a weak link. 

This lasted seconds!

The wines are all made by Enzo Brezza and his team, they are all traditionally made, no new oak. We just asked to be fed well and to get a good look at the range of the estates wines. I have bought several of the Barolos myself so a chance to look at pretty much the whole spread was really welcome.

Enzo!

Langhe Chardonnay 2013, Brezza - clean flavours, very pure and relatively light, no wood so minerals and lime in the main, nice.

Langhe Nebbiolo 2013, Brezza - This was not far from a rosé (they do make a rosé from 5% of their Barolo Cru holdings), very floral and linear, nice if simple.

Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2011, Brezza - A step up here, very good, nice fruit but not flabby, nice stoney freshness.

Barolo Sarmassa 2011, Brezza - This was very good, quite bold but nicely pure, tannins in good balance.

Amanda @ Brezza

Barolo Sarmassa 2007, Brezza - Following the 2011 with 2007, another quite similar vintage, was a good idea, this 2007 was more degraded and evolved as you would expect, easy to enjoy, as with a lot of the warmer vintages ('03,'07,'09,'11) it is best served cooler.   

Barolo 1965, Brezza - This was ordered in a lovely state of excitement. The chaps wanted to try something older, a nice "dusty bottle". We ordered the 1958 but Enzo himself felt the 1965 was a better bet, good level etc. The cork was a little stubborn but the wine was good and got better over the following 10-15 minutes, tightening up and getting younger. The signature, roses and tar.

Not bad for a first lunch...

Following this lunch and only running a few minutes behind for our next tasting we were really pleased to take up Enzo and Amanda's offer of a tour of the winery and cellars. It had been a great first taster of the region for the team. As we got into the wagon and asked Stefano to get us to Giulia Negri I had a feeling the trip might work out well.

Giulia Negri
Giulia has just finished her studies and university. She works from her families estate in the Serradenari Cru in Barolo, it is a great place to get a view over the whole region. Giulia is one of a younger generation of winemakers in the region who have traveled and who are fascinated by wines of other regions as well, especially Burgundy. We were treated to a cracking visit, a good tour of the winery, the cellar and then a great tasting sat out under the shade of a large tree. Giulia also seems to have a, very welcome, interest in the English sense of humour…with the team having lunched well this was a welcome discovery.

The wines:
Giulia has a fascination with Pinot Noir from her love of burgundy and she grows a little here, under the Italian name Pinot Nero, young vines.

Pinot Nero 2011 is a wine to drink now, there is a little menthol and a slightly split personality. The 2012 is a very clear step up, more lively, more precise and the 2013 has a bit more grip and tastes like it should, a translation between Pinot and Barolo. This is a project that is going to be exciting to track and now that Giulia is at the estate full time it will go from strength to strength.

The Barbera d’Alba 2013 is a juicy wine with more red fruit than black and a nice freshness. We were then into the Barolo's with the team relaxing in the breeze and many of the next batch of wines served blind. Barolo La Tartufaia 2010 is a serious wine with lovely richness, good extraction, a hint of leather and iron, this is for keeping. We then had two different versions of the Barolo 2011 from Giulia…one with the normal amount of Brunate in it and one less. The team were split on their preference, I found the version with Brunate to be bigger and a little more lush. There was on final wine - Renoir 2009 - thrown in as a curve ball, this is a blend of 60% Nebbiolo, 20% Barbera and 20% Pinto Nero. It is a wine her parents made (they still make wines under their own label from the same estate). It does very much taste of the region and we all liked it, as I had done a month earlier then I visited. There is fruit but also a degraded leathery element…
It had been a splendid afternoon - so many thanks to Giulia, the even better news was that she agreed to meet us for dinner on Saturday at Trattoria della Posta, more of which later...

It was time to drop our bags and check in at Hotel Casa Pavesi which is in the north of the Barolo region, in a commune called Grinzane Cavour. During the stay we were very well looked after by the team there. It is a nice location for accessing both Barolo and Barbaresco.

Before departing for dinner we gathered for a bottle of Delamotte 2007 Blanc de Blancs on the terrace, it is just starting to hit it's stride…

Trattoria La Coccinella
This was a little bit of a drive from the Hotel, 25 mins, but well worth it, once we got into the wines we were in the zone…we got a white from the region, Rolando Langhe Bianco 2013 from Bricco Maiolica, to accompany a white Burgundy that we had taken, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles 2012 from Francois Carillon.

Both these wines were enjoyable but the Chassagne's complexity won through, it's drinking well already though 18 months or so will do it well.

We then decided to follow the route we took with almost all ordering of food on the trip and said "please give us a mix of local starters, then two pastas and then we'll see how we are doing"…this worked well with both the restaurants, we were six people after all, and with us because we could concentrate on the wine! We got well tucked in here and ebbed and flowed between full maturity and youth.

Two of the great names...

Barbaresco 1971, Produttori del Barbaresco, kicked us off, the world's greatest co-op and a great vintage. I loved the fact that this was a medium weighted example of what classic aged Nebbiolo is - soy and frazzles, iron, some richness and a savoury acidity. From here I decided that we needed to get a few of the great names into the mix. Names we weren't seeing, may be next time! So Barolo 2009 from Bartolo Mascarello and Barolo Tre Tine 2010 from Guiseppe Rinaldi it was. The Bartolo had a juiciness and completeness, the Tre Tini was instantly a more masculine wine, more grip, a lovely purists structure, superb with the pasta. Then before we went back to the 70's it was time for Barolo Santo Stefano 2008 by Guiseppe Mascarello. I am a big fan of the 2008's a sort of feminine 2006 in so much as both are so very classical. This had a gorgeous, alluring and focused nose, a little more muted on the plate but splendid, what a trio of young wines.

A lovely line up for dinner...only day 1

Then "Dusty" and "Vestier" got hold of the list again and we were back in the decade of most of our births with the Barbaresco Rabaja 1974, Produttori del Barbaresco. Along with 1971 and 1978 the most lauded of that decades vintages (quick note if you ever see the Barbaresco 1970 from Produttori, buy, buy, buy). This 1974 was bricky and gritty with lovely acidity, exactly what is should be. We then had the Barolo Vigna Rocche 1989 from a producer I'd not heard of Sordo Giovanni. My notes by this time are thin on the ground but this did show well if not excitingly. The lists we saw generally had a lack of 1980's and 1990's. I am not totally sure why, may be those wines have been sold recently or is it to do with the modernist vs traditionalist saga that went on around the time. Either way we were having a ball and being looked after very well, certainly classed as the "crazy English". I later discovered our "little" line -up made it onto Facebook rather promptly under the title "we had the English in".

Quite some wine...

Just one last bottle to make the winding road home easier. What I hadn't realised was that it was only 4.5% alcohol. But when that wine is Tokaji Esszencia 1993 from Chateau Pajzos you don't care, believe me. Had I heard of it before? Nope, I should have though. When I tell you my note is long and that is at the end of a long day of lots of bottles you get the idea. My note sounds like one of those awfully pretentious monologues but here it is: "Thinly, very thinly cut apples on the nose, then with the palate is like the most sublime but substantial apple puree served cold. Long, Long, Long, I would struggle to say this was from grapes, extra-ordinary as it is extraordinary". And with that and a good group pic we were off. I'll be going back for sure.

On the drive back to the hotel there were mutterings of a running party organising themselves for the morning…those of us less that way inclined were thinking "yeah right"...

We woke to have breakfast on the terrace to find two of the team made it out for that run…good work. This daily tactic and the fact that the food is more easily digested than last years Foie Gras and reduction sauces was already making sense…

View from the breakfast table...

Stefano was ready at the wagon and the sun was out again, we were supposed to get rained on almost every one of the four days but thankfully nothing materialised.

So we headed to Bruno Giacosa where we were greeted by Francesco who gave us a tour of the facilities and a talk through the winemaking philosophy. We then sat down for a tasting with a group of Swedish journalists. Francesco gave us a overview of the history of Giacosa - Estate and Negociant. The total production is in the region of 300,000 bottles a year.

We kicked off the tasting with:

Spumante 2007 this is 100% Pinot Noir, Bruno Giacosa is no fan of Chardonnay, and has been made since 1983, it sells especially well domestically and in Germany. The nose is of dry nutty savoury fruit, the palate is then very mineral and again nutty. This was from a March 2014 disgorgement.  

Roero Arneis 2014 was up next, this comes from 21 or 22 growers and is amazingly responsible for 100,000 of the 300,000 bottles produced here. It is a wine I have had before but not in this vintage. The nose is pears and clean fruits, the palate has a little sweetness and is in balance with the nose, nice wine.

Barbera d’Alba Falletto 2012 has a production of about 7000 bottles and ferments for about 15 days at 26/27 degrees. There is a lovely dark cherry vivacity to this wine, not light but not weighty, I really liked this.

Now it was time to shift up a notch to the noble grape, Raw found this simply to exciting and managed somehow to break his tasting glass into a million pieces, a feat I am unlikely ever to witness again.

Nebbiolo d’Alba 2013 - had a lovely animal edge, then strawberry fruit, roses and some spice. I can imagine if aged this would take on a bit of truffle and gentle tobacco. I had a case of the 2008 (long since drunk) that did exactly that. They have made this since the 1970's and make around 14,000 bottles.

Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2011 is the last vintage of this wine that has been made since 1964. The fruit is again strawberry but wild rather than normal (sorry chaps but this stays in!), the acidity is superb, the wine is open and approachable now but I can well imagine it may go into it's shell. Very good indeed.

It was before the next wine that our Swedish journalist friends introduced us to the "a fox behind the ear" phrase, which I am sure you'll agree loses quite a lot in translation. It is suppose to suggest that some one has a lot of energetic drive...

Barbaresco Asili 2012 was a treat, I love this site, there is a darker fruit and always a moderate salty tang, this was a good showing from what is reputed to have been a tricky vintage.

Barolo Falletto 2011 was the final wine and as with the Santo Stefano 2011 it was vibrant and open and easy to appreciate. Cool strawberry conserve (not "Jam" Geronimo) that is so persistent. At the moment this is engaging pure and extrovert, so much complexity to come.

A really great start to the day and many thanks to Francesco for his time and knowledge. From Barbaresco we galloped of to Castiglione Falletto to meet up with Luca Roagna.

Luca breaks down the soil.

It was a real privilege to get a visit here as Luca, who I have known a while, really doesn't "do" visits as there is so much to be done at the estate. Roagna is a name most famous for wonderful holdings in Barbaresco, and some of the very best they are too. But Luca also has a very fine holding in Pira in Barolo as well. The wines for each can't be made at one place as each of Barolo and Barbaresco must both be vinified in their respective regions. The one exception is a historical one, Giacosa where we had just been.
To say that Luca has energy is a crazy understatement, he is a ball of energy. He is also deeply routed in the history and family nature of this great estate. At the same time he is a wine lover with a fascination for all the great wines. You will see all the great names around the cellars. Encouragingly most of the bottles appear to be empty! 

Looking down over Pira.

There is very long ageing of the wines at Roagna before they are released. They are not people to be rushed. We started our visit in the vineyards and this was no token "there you are a few vines to see", Luca had us going round the whole site, feeling and smelling soils and feeling the humidity of the vineyard floor (with the back of your hand not the front!). We saw the incredible vegetation that is allowed to grow up amongst the vines, everything is done here to be at one with the cycles of nature. The site is a steep one as we all realised when we we tried to clamber back up to the winery.

And what a winery it is! Amazing facilities, there is a sense of the Bond Villain about it but not in a showy way, everything has a place and reason for being there. Luca was picking up a few bottles as he went which was encouraging in the extreme. We then found ourselves popping out in Luca's own kitchen.

The tasting that followed was a joy. Zalto Nebbiolo glasses and every last detail covered. The wines were all from the last release, it sounds like the next release will be November.

Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti 2009 - From the vineyard we had trekked around, the old vine selection as well. A focused and persistent nose, pine resin and some iron as well as fruit that I can't really describe. A big structure but a balanced one. Superb.

Barbaresco Asili Vecchie Viti 2009 - Luca was slightly disappointed with this bottle and on reflection it was a little flatter than the others, still good though.

Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti 2009 - They only have 0.24 hectares here that they got in 1929. There is an airiness about this, cool, wet rocks but also pure fruit, it manages to be charming but very serious at the same time!

Barbaresco Paje Vecchie Viti 2009 - Roagna are most famous for there holdings in Paje from which this and the next wine both come. This was a delight, a slight notes of iodine then stones and that trade mark purity. Fabulous.

Barbaresco Crichet Paje 2005 - the signature wine of the estate but made in such tiny quantities and certainly not every year. The family bough in Paje in 1953. This, when made, is from one dedicated plot. Sublime elegance, my note is useless as it pretty much just says "wow" - how a wine has this grace at the same time as a massive yet totally balanced structure I really don't know.

What a tasting!

Ever thoughtful Luca wanted us to finish with a white wine so we would leave with a clean palate, I was totally happy to be left with the finish of the Crichet Paje on my senses.

The Solea 2012 which Luca served was an absolute gem, with normal modesty Luca said he doesn't really make white wine but this would be ok, it was delicious. The wine is a blend of Nebbiolo and Chardonnay, only 1332 bottles were produced. There is a roundness and opulence to the wine but it is not without acidity, it's pretty unique I felt…we were sad to leave Roagna but Lunch was needed. Thank you Luca!  

I was excited about lunch as it was going to be at a place I had been recommended by several friends in the trade, Vinoteca Centro Storico in Serralunga d'Alba. Alessio is quite a character and the wine list is terrific as well as there being awesome hams to feast on. We had an outside table and put ourselves in Allesio's hands for a mix of starters and then some Pasta. We were not to be disappointed! With a big tasting at 3pm we went relatively easy on the wines and tried three producers we had not yet sampled on the trip.

Barbaresco 2005 from Gaja, this had a lovely open nose on first tasting and had purity as well as a slightly earthy aspect. As the wine had time in glass it got tighter and drier…I think just a case of the wrong time to be drinking this.

Barolo Lazzarito 2007 from Vietti was almost the opposite, a little closed initially with oak showing but it sweetened up and became less oak dominated with time - it was quite juicy and opulent by the end but did not show any hotness from the vintage, nice. 

Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2005 from Cavallotto was the final wine of lunch and this was a pre-cursor to the following mornings visit to the estate. One of Cavallotto's two Riservas. The wine was lovely, bright and elegant with a lovely structure. With the 3pm tasting being one we were not going to be late for we made prompt tracks from Centro Storico - I'll be going back.

So then it was time for my favourite estate any where in the world - Cantina Giacomo Conterno and having only been a month earlier made me no less excited. Roberto and his assistant Stephanie greeted us and gave the team the tour of the newly expanded winery as well as the brand new, wasn't there the month before, bottling line. I can't stress the level of "attention to detail" here but somehow it is done without there being any less character or emotion.

Barbera masterclass...

Then it was time to taste - and a very generous tasting too. The two 2013 Barberas -  "Francia" and "Cerretta" started us off with the textbook differences coming through, minerality and salinity with cool black fruit for the Francia and the more lush and red/black sweeter fruit of the Cerretta. When one of the team asked about the ageing of these wines Roberto asked if we would like to taste the "Francia" Barbera 2005 or the 2001. I think we settled on 2005 only for Roberto to bring both. "Why choose when you can have both" he kindly commented. This was fascinating. I have some 2008's at home and they are gorgeous but I think this is the oldest I have had Francia Barbera. The 2005 had some soy, it was quite decadent, a little chocolate, slightly sweaty, sweet and degrading good. The 2001 was in the next stage of development, a more faded colour, ferrous, saline, forest floor and some raisins and soy, nice and good to drink but without the freshness of the 2005.

Roberto explains...

From that mini Barbera master class it was Barolo time.  
Barolo "Francia" 2011 is to be bottled in June and the "would have been Monfortino" barrel has now been blended into the wine. This is staggeringly lovely, the purity of a Volnay with the underlying structure you expect, simply lovely. Barolo "Cerretta" 2011 is also to be bottled in June. Has a similar clarity of flavour, more fruit more opulence, this is extrovert and where the Barolo classicist may "prefer" Francia (and I do by a tiny margin) this is just so juicy and good. Barolo Monfortino 2008 has been bottled, last June, but it is being released this year. I find this wine almost indescribable. There is a refined sweetness but also leather and some sweet tobacco but at the same time and, almost in contradiction, there is something so refined and feminine, just marvelous. The last wine - Barolo Monfortino 2010 - has only two problems. Firstly, the expectation is insane because as anyone who has tasted it will tell you this is the soul of what Barolo should be. As a result the expectation of experience will always be insanely, possibly unfairly, high. Secondly, when on earth do you drink it? My temptation is to say every 5 years from 12 years of age. It has everything and my words certainly can not do it justice - I am pathetically biased but I challenge anyone to disagree.

And well over two hours after arriving we headed to the "van" a group of very happy wine lovers! Bravo Roberto!

Having a had a little rest it was aperitivo time back at Hotel Casa Pavesi for this we had a magnum of Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2011 from Prum. Such a cool format of the great estate, it got the taste buds fired up for dinner.

Dinner was at Massimo Camina in La Morra. We may  have been spoiled by the standard and atmosphere of the restaurants so far but this was a slight miss-fire. Nothing major but the food was a little more pretentious after all the brilliant simplicity we had been enjoying. The wine service was also a little clumsy, too much sediment and just a slight lack of attention to detail. The food was fiddlier but also very good. Wine wise we did some more exploring.

A few more producers...

The opening salvo was Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres 2005 from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey which is fully mature now.

A nice light dish!

For the Barolos we opened with Barolo Le Brunate 2005 from Francesco Rinaldi, a producer I like and whose wines I buy. This was not a good bottle, muddied and lacking clarity, a real shame as this is not  true showing. We moved on to Barolo Ca’Mia 2005 from Brovia which was, for me, the wine of the night and in most of the team's top three. It had a good focus and balance, a nice sweetness. Barolo Cannubi Boschis 2004 from Sandrone had it's trademark richness and showed well from this cracking vintage. It was well received. Barolo Carobric 1997 from Scavino was a little too much, by which I mean a modern style from a warm vintage can result in a little bit too much texture at the expense of clean fruit. Barolo Riserva 1988 Vigna liste, Borgogno was good, fine purity and red fruit as well as a sweet leather and tea development I liked this.

It had been a fun meal with Geronimo getting to wear a bib! We decide that rather than buy more from the list we would make tracks back to the Hotel for a look at a couple of bottles from Italy's other best known region - Tuscany!

The Tuscan impostors...

Brunello di Montalcino “Greppo” 2004 from Biondi-Santi and Guado al Tasso 2007, Antinori were the two bottles in question. We settled into the comfortable and relaxing drawing room and got chatting, all sorts of topics as ever. The wines were both good, very good. The Biondi Santi had a lovely acidic balance that you only really get in Italy, complex and moreish. As you would expect the Guado was more richly textured, more opulent and more international but not in a bad way. With one of our party planning to make a departure in the mid afternoon the following day there was already pressure being applied to try and get him to give us his company for another 18 hours. A couple of Limoncellos rounded of a lovely evening. It was a good idea to get rest as, if last year was anything to go on, the Saturday of this trip tends to be rather a full on day!

The running brigade was at it's biggest on the Saturday with three of them making it. A good breakfast was had and with a nice, later, start the team seemed primed.

There are many ways in which the Saturday encapsulated the wondrousness of the region and wine in general. The wines are sublime, the people open, generous and engaging and the food just so splendid.

Cavallotto is where we were headed, Tenuta Vitivinicola Bricco Boschis in Castiglione to be more specific. I had never been before and it was purely via an introduction that we got the visit. So I wasn't expecting a full three hours with Guiseppe Cavallotto including a tour of winery, vineyard and a tasting. The approach here is very traditional and the wines are all made from the vineyards around the Tenuta. Ageing is in large older botti. The sense you get is of a very contented estate that does what they want to do without fussiness or any arrogance. The cellars were immaculate, the vineyards looked so well tended (but not over tended). The tasting room is relaxed. We were all impressed.

View from the Tenuta...

Langhe Chardonnay 2013 was rounded but pure, a slightly resinous note, from vines planted between 1973 and 1975. The wine sells almost exclusively on the domestic market. The palate has a little dryness but this is a nice if simple wine.

A stunning 1999...

Dolcetto d’Alba 2013 was next and I was glad, otherwise we would not have had a Dolcetto at all. This had cherry fruit, a drier texture than Barbera and a herbal note, a good fresh, unpretentious wine. The Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2011 was lovely, with cool black fruits, richer texture than the Dolcetto but no more than medium body. Lush and balanced. And so to Nebbiolo with the Langhe Nebbiolo 2012 which was for me the most serious Langhe Nebbiolo of the trip, a mini Barolo, classy. Interestingly there will be no Barolo made in 2014 so a fair bit of Langhe Nebbiolo - one to watch out for. Barolo Bricco Boschis 2010 was delightful, both serious but appreciable too, this is the main Barolo from the estate - there are two Riservas made on occasion. There was real poise to the wine. Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis 2008 Vigna San Giuseppe was a rare treat, very fine, saline, seriousness and power, good grip, a young but balanced wine. I would love to track how this evolves. We thought the tasting was done but no, one more wine - Barolo Bricco Boschis 1999 - this was a real highlight and this classical, slightly reticent, vintage strikes me as just the sort to suit this estate. It was stunningly good, a little soy, a little leather but sweet fruit.

We were a little behind for Lunch now but were having so much fun that there was no rush. Stefano put in a call to hold our table and a couple of the team decide it was purchase time. Several large bottles made their way into the wagon. A really memorable visit, such generosity!!

Lunch was at La Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso. I went there the month before and immediately earmarked it as the location for the Saturday luncheon of this trip. A stunning view, a relaxed atmosphere with serious food and a great wine list. We had some Champagne - Comtes de Champagne 1999 from Tattinger in the 65,000 bottle cellar before lunch. This is an incredible set up. Comtes 1999 was all lemon torte and youth, focused, lovely.
At the table we bedded-in for the afternoon with a decision to go for the tasting menu, minus the brains. We are Dreams 2013 from Jermann was the choice for white and it set the scene nicely with good fruit and a lowish acidity, food was now needed, frogs legs specifically. We had very kindly been given two bottles of 2008 by Cavallotto - Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe and Barolo Riserva Vignolo and it was lovely to drink the two side by side. The San Giuseppe is a little bolder but both drank well. From here as the dishes flowed several wines were ordered, some decanted and saved for a little later and other decanted and poured for immediate enjoyment. Barolo Cerequio 2000 from Voerzio was the next to hit the glass. This was lovely, creamy, rich, opulent and full but not heavy. As with La Tache 2007 at lunch last year there has always been the temptation to indulge in a few great bottles at this last Lunch and so it proved here. Barolo Monfortino 2000 alongside Sassicaia 1998. It certainly meant that the one of our number who sadly had to depart to Milan airport was leaving on a high. The Monfortino was sublime, so complete, so long, young yes but in no way a waste at all. That weightless density some how making the wine both persistent and complex but at the same time elegant. The Sassicaia was a lovely foil, darker fruit, bell-pepper and herbs, again not heavy but rich, just lovely. It's great when two different wines of such repute don't fight each other for victory, just look to show off to each other.

Pergole Torte 1999 from Montevertine was the next choice and a savvy one. It went well with the goat we were tucking into, the acidity and earthiness cutting through the satisfying fattiness of the goat. Pergole Torte somehow manages to be both dry and sweet, degraded but fruited, it needs to be given time to show well. I dashed to the wagon to get the next bottle - Rayne Vigneau 2001 - and I think it was this stage that Stefano realised he may well not be getting an afternoon break. The 2001 was lovely, young enough for lift but aged enough for figs and decadence to peek through. It's an estate a few savvy people follow. I recently asked one very prominent Bordelais producer for their sweet wine to buy outside of Yqeum and Rayne-Vigneau was their answer.

By this time, five-ish, the restaurant was emptying and we decided to move to the terrace for a coffee and one last bottle - Pin 2001 from Spinetta which was good, better that I expected. It is a blend of two thirds Nebbiolo and one third Barbera, it is not trying to be serious but has a nice sweetness allied to a bit of grip and degraded fruit. By this time we were in the midst of a weird co-incidence. Just as we had at this lunch the previous year we bumped into a couple sat at a near buy table to whom a few of our team had tenuous links. It was a sort of two degrees of separation rather than the normal six. I won't repeat what is was that Geronimo said that got the conversation going.

With 6pm now well behind us and an apertivo on the itinerary at Casa Della Saracca before dinner we finally bid our good byes and made tracks. Casa della Saracca in Monforte is something of a local institution. Part bar, part restaurant, part hotel it's a wonderful rabbit warren of a place.

We had a livening bottle of the biscuity Brut Tradition Grand Cru from Egly-Ouriet, although a couple for the team feared the acidity and went to G&T instead, C&B Sloe Gin even got a whirl. There are always a few different people milling around Saracca and Raw be-friended a male reporter from Sweden who was in the region.
Fiscali tried to stitch me up as a tour guide for some Norweigans and I think we were all starting to think the flight back the following morning was going to be a quiet one!

Trattoria della Posta was to be our dinner spot, a lovely authentic restaurant that does the basics so very well. I had loved it when once before, some years earlier. Geronimo was feeling the effect of his early morning run and impromptu DJ'ing session in Saracca and decided he would have the past and then ask for "Home Stefano". He made it up for a run on the final morning which was no mean feat. 

The rest of us were delighted to have been joined by Guilia for dinner so we got ordering - food and wine. A Gaia & Rey 2013 from Gaja was a good start, it is a wine I have often enjoyed, it is more a savoury scenario than a wine of fruit but it works. Dusty then decided we needed Sperss 1996, Gaja from bottle and to have a look at a comparison of bottle and magnum by ordering Barolo Monfortino 2000 from magnum. It was a great decision. The Sperss came out more and more in the glass, a serious wine with years ahead. The Monfortino was as you'd expect a little younger and more dense, than the bottle at Lunch, it was wonderful to have it in a glass for that bit longer and to drink it in more volume. The food was a delight and we all have a great time telling the earlier "trailer plane" story (ask me and I'll explain). Some grappa appeared from the next door table, it had rather lovely packaging. Fortunately we only sampled a very little bit. Whether the next bit was sensible or not is another matter but, what the hell, our trip was nearly over so back to Saracca for one last bottle and what better to choose than a bottle from one of the producers we had seen - Barolo Le Coste 2007 from Roagna. I loved it, 2007 may not be a classic vintage but when handled with care it can be lovely, this was…Stefano made sure we all got back in one piece…quite a day!

The following morning there were a few groans of over-indulgence but actually everyone was in good fettle. We breakfasted and then made tracks having said good bye, some with more vigour than others, to our hosts and that was the trip all but done...

A few big bottles...

So, what did we learn?
Piedmont is so beautiful.
Food - Traditional starters and pasta and then go from there.
The producers give you real time and a full insight.
In both wine and restaurants go traditional rather than modern.
Make sure you get into the vineyards.
Restaurants are open to you bringing bottles.
Running gear is a good idea (if you like that sort of thing).

Hotel Pavesi 

A few thanks you's:
The producers we saw were all wonderful!
Specifically Roberto and Stephanie for the introduction to Stefano.
For restaurants, ordering advice, bookings and general help: Rebecca Nightingale, Eric Sabourin, Valentina Zavagli, Sam Harris, Megan Rogers.

But above all else to the team for having me along. I love Piedmont more every time I go and I learnt a massive amount on the trip…I can't wait to go back…right then…Rhone 2016 is it?!?!