The last Hurrah...

When the news of the end - for now - of Zucca came out there was quick booking made by fellow Zucca addict - Mr Rafferty for the last but one night, the last night would have been too much.

So nine of us including Mrs Duvault-Blochet joined together for a dinner. The theme being the last bottle from a case, any case. When I say bottle in true style most people brought a magnum or two bottles. This was a very relaxed evening with much opinion expressed and piss-taking. New friends made. We ate from the "normal" menu and rattled off the classics:

Zucca Friti

Carpaccio of Sea Bass

Burrata with Cavalo Nero

Beef Carpaccio

Vitello Tonnato

Squid Bruscetta

-

Taglierini, Pork & Fennel Ragu
-
Grilled Octopus

Veal Chop
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Chocolate SemiFreddo

We hadn't managed to co-ordinate anyone doing some fizz so we started with a couple of bottles of the fresh but just a shade toasty Satin La Montina Franciacorta. I really ought to get to know what's what with Franciacorta, beyond Ferrari and Ca'del Bosco I am just not that knowledgeable.

Then time for some white and we started with "Jazz Hand's" magnum - Meursault Les Grands Charrons 2009 from Boisson-Vadot. I've been lucky enough to drink a decent amount of Boisson-Vadot but never have I had it from magnum before. This had all the smokey, slight reduction you expect of this producer and the richness you expect of 2009, a really decadent start to proceedings. Alongside this was Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Jubilee Spatlese 2008 from Schloss Schonborn from bottle. This wine was served in the same room at Mrs D-B's 40th so it seem appropriate to have it again. Lovely Rhine richness with the middle ground of Spatlese, a wine to just enjoy, no pretence.

And on to the reds! Tignanello 1986 was a really easy wine to quaff, not to say it was not more serious but it had slightly lost a sense of place. It wasn't showing the Sangiovese acidity and it's kind owner was a little disappointed as it was from "his" vintage (youngster!). I liked it just think that 5 years ago it would have had that bit more personality. 

It's partner was my offering, Cascina Francia Barbera 2008 from Giacomo Conterno, my thinking being that it is a producer I love and we (C&B) even did a dinner here with Roberto. On the other hand none of the Conterno wines are what could be remotely called mature so this seemed a good compromise. It drank well, still good rich dark cherry fruit but with that cool saline edge you always get from the site, wonderfully food friendly as ever. That was my last mag but I do still have a bottle somewhere.

The next flight was unplanned but set itself up as a great pairing. Two of the top names from respective banks in Bordeaux. Both top estates. VCC (Vieux Chateau Certan) 1998

and Palmer 1998 . Having them then served blind I was delighted to get them the right way round. Anyone in the trade who says they aren't relieved to get this right especially after 10+ years in bottle is probably lying. The VCC had real poise and such balance, really lovely, young yes but not infanticide at all. If you have a case of this (in bottles) then don't be afraid to have a bottle of two now, you'll be missing out otherwise. The Palmer actually tasted to be a little more mature, a little more developed (2nd base may be), not quite the layers of the VCC but splendid.

The next two bottles, from Mr Rafferty were a treat - Rauzan Segla 1947 a BBR bottling - was exuberantly sweet and reminded me of some of the 1955's I have been lucky enough to have had. A lovely bottle and so fitting to have something this old and special on a night like this. Hermitage 1994 from Chave has no right to be anything like as soft and lovely and just downright delicious as it is. The vintage is not great but then how many times do us wine lovers have to be told "producer, producer, producer".

One special glass got passed back to us in the Pdr from the main restaurant and it was the really rather lovely Sori San Lorenzo 1990 from Gaja a real treat from Mr Bowker.

Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Spatlese 1989 from Schloss Schonborn (another coincidence to have this) finished us off for the evening in some style, oily and menthol fresh with good acidity. Is it wrong to say that I think people were concentrating more on the puddings by then.

It was great that Sam (Harris) managed to pop in and join us for a glass here and there.

The end had come - I've loved Zucca and shared so many wonderful times there…I am sure it'll be back. Thanks to all those who have brought bottles and served them, cooked and given great service I am not singling anyone out as it was a team effort…onwards!

Tuscan 2004's...

This was a dinner organised with the same lovely bunch as attended a Barolo 2004 dinner at Zucca back in July. It seemed logical to follow the Barolos with Tuscans. We all gathered at The Quality Chop House and each with the instruction to bring a bottle of our choosing. We were very well looked after through the evening with a menu as shown below. The food was all simple, delicious and complemented the wines well. I think I'll take my son, Charlie, there soon - just his sort of place!

The organiser - Mr Gossip on this occasion - gets to bring the aperitif. We kicked off with 2011 Batar from Querciabella. This is a wine I have definitely had, and enjoyed, before though I can find no reference of it on this blog at all which is odd. This was quite rich but also very savoury and dry when cold, it really opened out with time and actually I think I preferred it when it was almost at room temperature. It will certainly repay 3-4 more years cellaring and beyond. The blend is a fairly "different" one being 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Blanc. It was a nice opener and deserved the 93 its it gets from Galloni. This brings me onto one odd thing about the evening, more than half the wines get 93pts and that made it an interesting tasting as you can analyse that taster as well as the wines. I am not a big one for scores but it was an interesting aside.

We were now ready to start the 2004's. A little look at the vintage suggests it was the opposite of the extremes of 2003. There was a fair bit of work to do in the vineyards and green harvesting seems to have been repaid but all in all it was not a vintage of extremes, balance is always good so hopefully that would show in the wines.

The wines were served in pairs and with the traditional varietals first. I have scored them out of twenty for my own benefit as much as anything.

2004 Brunello di Montalcino from Il Poggione - This had been double decanted a couple of hours before dinner and is from a producer I really like (the 2006 is a little gem if you see it). The nose was initially quite volatile, it actually seemed to tighten up in the glass. It was a little grainy and savoury reminding me of ash and meat. There was just enough sweetness to pull it together. Either this will repay cellaring or it just lacks a little something. 16.5

2004 Brunello di Montalcino from Lisini - Nicely complete nose with a little gloss, then with time in the glass a little more meaty and savoury. This tastes young and has quite a bit of texture about it. 17

2004 Brunello di Montalcino from Salvioni - Saline, which for me the best Italian wines (Piedmont or Tuscany) must have. This was excitingly good. Richness, fresh greenness by which I mean "good zip", lots of life and good sweetness. Very very moreish acidity, classy, very fine. 18.5

2004 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina, Pieve Santa Restituta from Gaja - had the unfortunate job of following the Salvioni. This was good, grainy and grippy with a very moreish texture. It tasted wonderfully Italian but, and I don't want to be obvious here, it tasted more of Gaja than of Sangiovese. There is a real signature there and had I been told it was a Piedmont wine from Gaja and say 12-15 years old I would have agreed entirely. I liked it but may be wanted a shade more definition. Nice wine. 17-17.5

2004 Camartina from Querciabella - A blend here of 50% Sangiovese, 45% Cabernet and the last 5% being from Merlot/Syrah. The wine was quite glossy and clearly needs a little time, 3-5 years, to fully integrate. It has good ripeness and will be impressive in time, it is just a touch incomplete now. 17(?)

2004 Terriccio from Castello del Terricio - The 50% Syrah here really shows, it is  masculine wine with good sweetness, it is quite lush as well and has a savoury dimension. I found it quite surprising, in a good way. 17+

The next pair was interesting as I had both wines at an Ornellaia 1990-2010 tasting before and enjoyed them.

2004 Serre Nuove - Rich and a shade doughy on the nose but then really good with quite saturated dark fruits on the palate, this was impressive and really quite serious. 17.5 (a little higher than last time).

2004 Ornellaia - I think this was probably voted wine of the night by many. I may be just though the Salvioni shaded it but that really is picking hairs. The nose remind me of crusty bread, the balance was such that writing a note was tricky (a good sign)…there was a little saline and just a feeling of easy completeness. Very good. 18-18.5

2004 Sassicaia - Sadly this was just not a good bottle, not corked but just bruised, a little volatile and prematurely degraded. No score.

2004 Messorio Macchiole - In the absence of Masseto (a little out of the wine trades price range) this was to be the 100% Merlot. There was a nose of dry balsamic notes followed by lush fruit and quite a bit of richness. Somehow I found it a little bit much. 16.5.   

2004 Tenuta di Trinoro - This was my bottle so watch out for bias. I have tasted through quite a few vintages down the years but never the 2004 as far as I can see or remember. This has almost tropical fruits and a vigorous youth with a sweet texture and very fresh but youthful appeal. I really liked it. 17.5-18.

So as a whole what did we learn? 2004 is clearly a nice vintage, there was good balance and definition, I think we felt the wines were harder to asses that the Barolos which give a little more perfume earlier in their lives and probably due to being from a thin skinned variety are a little easier to describe and assess. A successful evening for sure...

By consensus the next evening for the group is Bordeaux 2005 under a certain price point (£50 a bottle say) of release…should be interesting!

Blind tasting dinner at Kitchen W8...

A lovely mix...

This was a really fun evening at Kitchen W8, a good spot that for whatever reason I have never blogged about, despite having been a few times. This is a poor omission, the food is very good, classy and flavoursome and stops on the right side of fiddly. The service too is friendly but not fussy. They are pro-wine and deserve to succeed, which I am sure they will, the only thing I would tweak would be the quality of the wine glasses but that's me being picky. The format of this evening was to enjoy a bottle of Grand Siècle, Laurent Perrier that would then be followed by 5 reds all served blind. The wines then had to be scored, or ranked more specifically, with scores of 10, 8, 6, 4 and 2. This is produces a winner. There had been no instruction other than bring a red.

Now to some this may sound very structured and possibly a little like work but these are keen (and generous) wine people that I am getting to know better and better and actually it is crucial to do this sort of tasting as you have to be honest and really pay attention. We were 6 people in total with a mix of trade and amateur (not that the difference is easy to spot these days) with one MW amongst the gang.

The Grand Siecle was round, rich and quite full without the focus to make it really exciting, in retrospect as I write this I wonder what the dosage was, north of 6g I am thinking. It is not a Cuvee I know well, though I know it became a Non Vintage a few years ago.

So on to the first pair of reds which were: Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta 2008, Giacomo Conterno and Sori Tildin 1974, Gaja, both suffered a little from being a little warmer than is ideal and a little shaken as a result of tube Journeys  It is fair to say that these two were not that well received and actually came last with Conterno edging the Gaja. I was very surprised and you'll not be shocked to know they certainly were not bottom two in my book. The Conterno is a wine I have written about many times. Roberto Conterno finalised a deal to buy this plot in June 2008 so only had a small involvement in the vineyard for this wine and as a result released it as Langhe Nebbiolo other than the Barolo he could have. The wine is light in colour and to my mind pretty but some of the criticisms were, a warmth and also a greenness, an odd showing. The Gaja was a wine I guessed as a warm vintage Barbaresco, the problem it has was an odd texture. I enjoyed it's degraded iron like richness but I had a good idea what it was and that made a big difference. It was not however 100%. It was a very kind bottle to bring from such an acclaimed vintage.

The three wines served next were:

Shafer Hillside Select 2003

Impostor McCoy 1997, Sine Qua Non

Montrose 1989

My first SQN...

Sadly the Montrose was corked which was a great shame as it was harsh on its generous "bringer" and also I have not had it before. Fortunately  I had another bottle in my bag - Biserno 2007, Tenuta di Biserno - so we added that in, again blind. The Shafer was so primary, so full, rich and the guesses were all over the place. This was mostly due to the succulent black fruit and the slightly indigestible oakiness. My view was that it was Australian, I was hoping it was really young and that would have meant the oak was more logical but as it is 12 years old I feel it will not change and whilst perfectly honest it is not exciting or complex. The bottle was one of the most heavy I have ever come across. It came in mid-division in the overall rankings. The Impostor McCoy was next and ended up winning the evening, I had it down as "weirdly enjoyable", herbs and cinnamon. There was a suggestion of northern Rhone which I came to agree with more and more, possibly out of desperation as I was struggling to place this wine. There was a sense of development but not a degradation. It was good and I was very pleasantly surprised when it was revealed, my first "SQN". The late addition - Biserno 2007 - actually came second with good lush fresh fruit, it is the first vintage of the wine and is mostly Cabernet Franc, it will repay more time but is open and ready for business.

A really fun and well co-ordinated evening, thanks to our hosts. I am already plotting for next time...

A rather delicious veal starter

Day to day...

Having a quick look at the blog over the year so far I realise quite how privileged I have been terms of tastings and trips in the last few months. However, I also notice that I've only really been writing up bigger dinner and events and not really documenting the wines I come across at the many lunches and dinners I am very lucky to enjoy, in a relaxed way, with customers, producers and friends. Many of the former two have become the latter which is one of the real joys of the wine trade. I also have to say that as my memory gets worse I use this blog more and more to remember if I have had certain wines...so a bit of a recent run of meals...

Relaxed luncheon at Otto's - both the other "Lunchers" had dinners that evening so this was a lovely relaxed lunch with lots of good chat. One white and one red. We started with Meursault Clos de Mazeray 2012 from Domaine Jacques Prieur a Domaine I am getting to know really well. This was lovely and rich but with a saline edge, it's a good wine from a good vintage. The red, Barolo 1967 from Accomasso Giovani - was rather at the other end of the age range and showed wonderful sweetness and complexity, earth and ash as well as flowers and a shade of red sweet frazzles (if that makes any sense). The food at Otto's did us proud. A thoroughly enjoyable lunch.

The next lunch, actually the following day, was at Zucca with a mate in the trade who writes, buys and sells. A great new starter has made it onto the menu - Squid Bruschetta with squid ink used in the bread making. It is delicious and strongly recommended. The use of squid and octopus is becoming a real signature for Zucca. The wines we had were a good complimentary pair, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2004 from JJ Prum and then Le Vigne de Zamo 2000 by Ronco dei Roseti. Prum is for me one of the most flexible white wine producers with and without food, the variety of sweetness and ripeness and the texture of the wine as well as the lower alcohol really give you lots of options. This Auslese in 2004 has real precision and freshness. The red was a wine I had never had before, it is a Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend, having it blind I was half minded towards Bolgheri as there was a black fruited, bell-pepper note about this but less weight than you tend to get from further south. Friuli is known for whites but on this showing, reds too.

The hat-trick of lunches was notched up with a Friday at 1 Lombard Street near bank in the city, a spot I know well. Peter Sisseck was in town having been at the dinner given to celebrate Alvaro Palacios getting the Decanter Man of the Year award. We had Psi 2010 from bottle followed by Psi 2011 from Magnum, both showed well, possibly the 2011 just edging it for focus. Peter explained how this project worked, essentially protecting old vines by having a co-operative approach to buying their fruit. We then went to the estate that Peter is best know for - Pingus and had the Flor de Pingus 2006 which was showing superbly, yes it is young but it has such brightness that it's lovely now. To pair the 2006 we also had Flor de Pingus 1996 which I was always under the impression was the first Flor de Pingus, in fact we heard from Peter that there had been a little bit of Flor made in 1995 (the first year of Pingus) but as with the Pingus it ended up in the bottom of the Bay of Biscay when the boat went down. The 1996 has always been a great wine at taking some famous scalps and is fully mature now but still so good. We then just had time, before Peter dashed off to get a plane, for us to try the first two vintages of Chateau Rocheyron 2010 (Magnum) and 2011. The 2010 has a great reputation of course but this is very much a work in progress for Peter and the 2012 are really showing that as is the 2014 I tasted last week in Bordeaux. He will not release 2013 as Rocheyron, instead it will appear only under the second label of Fleur de Rocheyron.

An invite came through the following week to attend the Uk launch of Dom Perignon Rose 2004 and not knowing the wine well I though this was not a chance to pass up. Dom Perignon "normal" is, in my opinion, one of the few examples in the wine world of mass production and high quality. Dom Perignon Rose 2003 - the release before the 2004 and richer, a little darker, a little more opulent. It was then time for the Dom Perignon Rose 2004 which showed more focus and refinement, may be showing less of the Rose elements just yet but that will come.

The next lunch was a Friday at Zucca, contrary to popular opinion I rarely "lunch" on a Friday as I like to finish the week off. The visit was the very first for a customer/friend and we had agreed to bring a bottle each - I went down the JJ Prum route again with Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 1997 which showed really well, a little richer and more unctuous than the 2004 but still very fresh and a great accompaniment to the variety of antipasti, or Italian tapas as I like to think of them. It was then time for Costa Russi 2000 from Gaja, this was very Gaja and very 2000, quite bold and full, very good but youthful and may be without the razor sharp acidity you can get in other vintages, the last glass was really singing. As it was a friday and there was still much to discuss I asked for the list and selected Barolo Sarmassa 2009 from Brezza. I like these wines and think they are certainly under-appreciated, think "really good second growth" or a Domaine in Burgundy that makes great wines but doesn't quite have the Grand Cru holdings it deserves, rich, full but also pure. I am very pleased to own some Brezza wines.

And last but by no means least it was back to Otto's (yes boring aren't I). Two customers who used to work together in the city - some great stories - very kindly suggested Lunch and knowing they have lovely cellars I said I'll bring a white and  pay for the food. So we started with Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres 2011 from Francois Carillon. I really like the Francois Carillon wines, I am biased but think he's really nailing it with zingy, elegant wines that drink well from early but will age well, he wisely went easy on the new oak in 2011 and the results are lovely. The three reds we had were deliciously different. Gruaud Larose 1982 was fully mature but still rich with dark fruit, a good dose of blood and iron (in a good way of course). The Burgundy pairing was both kind and fascinating 
Charmes Chambertin Tres Vielles Vignes 1995 and 1997 from J.Roty. I have always found there to be a masculine style to the wine at Roty but somehow they are never hard, there is a specific texture, a dash chalky. The 1995 was rich, savoury, some soy and sweet stock but then refined and persistent, young but totally appreciable now, good, very good. The 1997 was by a slight contrast open and ready to go, still the same family of flavours - soy, bruised fruit and savoury sweetness but just looser and sweeter, less brooding, lovely now but no rush, medium weight...we then had some cheese and Rieussec 2003 from a half. This was drinking nicely, good balance and a little bit of rancio coming in. I think with the pricing of Rieussec having all gone a bit "wrong" of late that a lot more of it will simply get drunk at lunches and dinners...all in all a good thing.

Gaja at Zucca

I was delighted to get an invite from the UK agents for Gaja to a lunch at my Favourite Zucca. The format was a good one given that Gaia Gaja, Angelo's daughter, was in town sadly with very limited time. She came for a session pre-lunch and talked through the 2011's before also talking through the wines we were to have with lunch.

She is a very good and engaging host who does a very good job saying what must be similar things almost day in day out, you don't get that feeling and that is quite a skill. She had a few good sound bites, all delivered in a cheeky fashion, my favourite of which was "Nebbiolo - the variety the french don't have".

On a more serious note I have had a fair few Gaja's down the years and always found them to deliver, possibly more in a solid way than a charming one but that is down probably more to my bias towards traditional Barolo and Barbaresco than anything. The wines that the family make are good to very good and certainly you can't claim to have explored Piedmont and it's brilliance (bias again) without spending considerable time on these wines.

Before the tasting Gaia spoke a little about 2014. A vintage with a cool June, warm July and then very cool August (average 17 degrees) before a better September/October. Severe green harvesting was needed if what was to be picked would be ripe. It was a year where Gaja saw production in Barolo down by 40% and Barbaresco down by 20%.

When talking of 2011 Gaia mentioned that if was a decent year, better in Barbaresco than Barolo (which is still in concrete). Simpler to 2010 in having an elegant/lighter body...

Barbaresco 2011
Bold tannins but not too much so. Lovely nose, clean, saline with cherry fruit then other red fruits, roots and rhubarb, some lovely sweetness. A blend of 14 different vineyards sites. Impressive.

Costa Russi 2011
The last site to flower and the last to be picked. It is a site that has less humidity and is cooler with a more compact soil. I found this denser, darker and creamier with more texture, a little more wood does show but there is again a little saline, bold and lovely if obviously youthful.

Sori Tildin 2011
Gaia suggested that the addition of a little Barbera is a little like a little Merlot with the Cabernet in Bordeaux. This site is a little sandier and nearer the top of the hill. I found more spice, a deeper wine but not darker than the Costa Russi, more tannin, it took a little while to open in the glass. There was a bell-pepper lift to the wine that I liked. Very good.  

We then re-visited the white that we were served on arrival:


Rossj Bass 2013
A blend of 95% Chardonnay and 5% Sauvignon Blanc this wine is named after Angelo Gaja's youngest daughter Rossana. The grapes come from three sites planted in 1986: The Rossj and Bass vineyards in Barbaresco and a small vineyard in Serralunga. It is a wine I have enjoyed before. Ripe lemon and lime fruit combine with a small dash of toastiness. The fruit character is a little like a generous Chablis as there is real minerality. I like this! They so also make another serious white Gaia and Rey which is 100% Chardonnay and requires more time.

We then moved on to the, as ever, immaculate food:

Antipasti Misti

Taglerini, Pheasant Ragu and hazelnuts

Slow cooked pork shoulder, porcini and yellow polenta

Chocolate semifreddo, pecan ice cream and caramel

Barbaresco 1998

Thus had a slightly rancio nose, iron and resin this was a good drink but not up to Sori San Lorenzo 1998 served even more recently. There is a very true ferrous and iron-like character and with food this is good. Fully mature I would argue best drunk now.

Conteisa 2005 Magnum
Conteisa is a Barolo (with Barbera) in the same way that CR or SSL are Barbaresco. From a site in the Cerequio vineyard in the La Morra sub-district. Very good, nicely done in a sometimes tricky vintage, quite bold and dark but not without freshness, impressed.

Costa Russi 2008
I really like the 2008 vintage in Piedmont and I think it'll prove a savvy buy for many in years to come. The 2004/2006/2010 vintages are spectacular but the 2008 is a little more feminine and I expect the drinking windows to be massively wide. This wine was true to my words, not overly big of rich but in a lovely balance that I think will stand it in good stead.

A cracking lunch - Will and Adam - thank you...and Gaia of course!

The Connaught...three pairs...

This was a dinner at the excellent "Sommeliers Table" at The Connaught...the first time I had been back since Sussex's 40th some four and a bit years ago. I am delighted to report the food is as outstanding as I remember it being. The gathering was a very knowledgable and opinionated group which is always good, this was my first outing with this group though I know them all individually.

We kicked off with a magnum of Krug 1996 which was tasting very well, serious with real depth and power. There is great acidity which balances the biscuity, saline and savoury palate. Clearly a wine with a long life ahead of it (especially in mag of course). It begged to be drunk but at the same time served the perfect role of making you hungry, very impressive. Thinking about this afterwards I wish I had left a small glass to re-taste later.

The main part of the evening was three pairs of red. There was a 1998 in each flight so the fundamental questions were.

1) Did you like both?

2) Did you have a preference?

3) Which one was the 1998?

4) Once 3 was revealed what vintage was the other?

5) Have a stab at what they are?

Now clearly getting all five questions answered and recorded for each of 6 wines by the seven who didn't know the wines was going to be a task - or 210 tasks in fact. So we tried our best and i'll refer to general themes where I can. Interestingly the there pairs were very obviously from the three regions, namely - Burgundy, Piedmont and Bordeaux.

So the first pair was La Tache 1998, DRC & Romanee-Saint-Vivant 2001, S.Cathiard, we had them with two delicious courses. Pumpkin Ravioli, Mostardo di Cremona, lobster with sage and Sea bass with white cocoa beans, clams, calamari, parsley.

To start with two of the most sought after and talked about producers is a rare treat. The preference for each was split down the middle. I got the vintage the wrong way round feeling that the initially more savoury nose of the Cathiard was the 1998 and the purity of the nose on the La Tache was 1999. As time went on the initially purity of the La Tache faded an the wine remained complete but may be without the depth you might expect of the this great Cru. The consensus was that it was slightly underwhelming. The Cathiard was just not very 2001 to me. It showed well. A little degraded and deeper/darker of fruit than 2001 would generally be from my experience. There is very little (circa 2.5 barrels) of this made. I liked it, as I think everyone did, I just ever so slightly wished the extraction had been a little more sympathetic...either way a lovely opening pair.  

As soon as we were served White Truffle Risotto from Aquerello rice, Parmagiano Reggiano I knew that we would probably be in Piedmont. The dish was great as was the Chicken, Jerusalem artichoke “albufera" that followed. The two wines in question were Barbaresco "Asili" Riserva 1996, Giacosa and Sori San Lorenzo 1998, Gaja. The room was fairly split over the preference possibly a slight leaning toward the Giacosa.

There was a collective failure on the 1998 scenario mostly, I feel, because the Gaja was so incredibly youthful. The Giacosa was open and slightly "frazzled" (a good thing with traditional Nebbiolo), there was sweet fruit on the nose and some oranges, always a traditional oxidative style. The Gaja was a markedly different style but a very impressive wine, vibrantly primary with cherry fruit, dark cherry at that, quite powerful too, I would be fascinated to see if it stays so bold and then fades over time or whether it does degrade and may be show more Nebbiolo character. A lovely pair for the stark differences.

So now Bordeaux - Cheval Blanc 1998 & Petrus 1999 served with Venison, Medjool date, pumpkin and Brussel sprout. This was a brilliant pairing, wine/wine and wine/food. Both wines had such lovely perfumes, helped by the cool but not cold serving temperature. The Cheval was initially more savoury and I think a shade more complex, I had it down as Trotanoy and I did just prefer it when forced, although in honesty I think the whole table loved both. The Petrus was a little closed initially then, with air, a high toned red fruit started to come out more and more, that trade mark Tropicality (not that that is a word) of Petrus. Both wines just had that fruit, structure, savoury balance that you want - really top notch. Both have serious futures but to own either and not have tried them at this lovely stage strikes me as a little bonkers.

The sommelier for the evening, Mirko, was then asked to pick a wine for the deliciously comforting and correctly over the top Armagnac Baba with chestnut and quince. We were all discussing mature Sauternes with vintages from 70's and 80's getting a few shouts. I thought the wine had an element of Rieussec rancio richness about it...but actually it was Chateau Tirecul-la-Graviere Cuvee Madame 2001, Monbazillac so despite all being "wrong" we were wrong for the right reasons I suppose. A good choice.

A brilliant evening of gentle teasing, wonderful wines, smashing food and lots of laughs. Our organiser/host and the team at The Connaught had all done us proud...

The baba

White Wine and Seafood in Suffolk

A quick bottle of rounded but poised Horizon Blanc de Blancs NV from Pascal Doquet set the day off nicely as we found ourselves on the mid-morning train to Ipswich. On arrival a quick change before a slower ride to Melton. We were in Suffolk and off by cab to The Butley Orford Oysterage, a cracking fish restaurant linked to a great smokery. With the menu, of which I think we had everything, being solely fish and seafood it was always going to be a day of whites. A great array of wines it was too.

A new one on me!

Brut Initial Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Selosse (Nov 2013 disgorgement) was next out of the blocks and the not quite chilled temperature was actually no bad thing, the wine had enough focus to balance the sparkling Meursault-esque nature of Selosse. Slightly oily with a little whiff of reduction, probably the best Selosse I have had.

A rather lovely way to start the meal

As the delicious food started to arrive - everything from Salmon to Eel to Mussels and Oysters - we were on to the first still white which was served blind. One of our number knew the capsule but we were all fairly quickly in the Loire. Sancerre Les Mont Damnes 2006, Francois Cotat was the wine in question. I'd never had anything of his before and was both pleased to have the chance and impressed by the wine. In a lovely phase. The flavours and aromas were light and almost airy, green but "good" green with some white flowers, a ripe green apply freshness…in a great zone right now.

We then ventured to the opposite end of the scale really and had Belle Cote 2004, Peter Michael, again blind. I was in a warm vintage Meursault sort of place and am not unhappy with that…for some it was just too glupey and textured, I actually quite like it though a glass would have been enough. The fruit character was slightly bruised tropical fruit that matched the opulent texture, not a wine to have anything but well chilled. The only other Peter Michael wine I have had was a rather impressive Chardonnay Cuvee “Indigene” 1991, Magnum at the Paulee at Bovey Castle in early 2013. That seemed to have aged very well and lost the oak so who knows the same may happen here.

The two Will's conferring.

A welcome non-blind wine followed - Gaia & Rey 2005 from Gaja - it's a savoury wine that has aged well, the fruit is a littler spiced too, the saline finish balances things. at 9 years of age I'd say it is certainly not on the way down.

We were then served Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 2002 from Raveneau blind again from a bottle with only a 1971 next label - this can be off putting. I was fairly sure it was Chablis but I was thinking a little older. It had lovely notes of cheesecloth, creme fraiche and goats cheese that then went on to be nougat and gooseberry…really good as is always the case with this great producer in my experience.

A splendid "spread" and that's for starters!

My bottle was up next - Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2001, Bonneau du Martray - and I can already sense the "what so young" comments. I have had this wine to drink rather than taste twice now and it is delicious, not in an over-opulent way but in a balanced loveliness way, a little bit of very classy oak shows alongside the fruit, I think it'll be a wine that drinks well for quite some time but without closing up…If you own it I really think you should have a bottle soon just to see what it is like.

21yrs apart but equally lovely

The last white at actual lunch was - Morey-Saint-Denis Blanc 1er Cru Monts Luisants 1990 from Domaine Ponsot - This was really lovely, very generous in a 1990 way. A little pineapple and a dash of reduction, then a tiny bit of cocoa and mocha…really lovely. It has a very definite character, the only other time I have had it was the 2002 vintage from magnum at a magnum, bbq and poker day/night organised by the very fine chap who brought this along. What I had not hoisted in at all was that a lot of the unique character comes from the fact the wine is made (exclusively as far as research will show me) from Aligote! If you've not had it then you need to put it on your list...

We finished lunch with a sticky toffee pudding of epic proportions then had a wander down the road to pick up some smoked goods before pudding number. This was served with - Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 1990, JJ Prum - this was in hedonistic form, a little over developed may be but very very good and much enjoyed. 

Diet? What diet?

Needless to say the return train journey was a more mellow affair than the way up…what a great day! Well done all…and special thanks to Uncle Ju-Ju...

Rieslings and Italians @ Zucca

There was only one problem with this dinner and that was that we started at 8.15pm and I had to be back in the office the following morning at 7am (and tasting!!). It had been set up (by "Sussex", remember him?) as a Germans and Italians evening but the remit spread to Rieslings generally. The menu was created by Sam Harris (Owner/Chef of Zucca) and worked brilliantly. I must also give credit to Peter Lowe for the photos, much better than my normal "Blackberry/I-phone" scenarios. To comment on food and wine as we go will be too much for my limited brain power so please see the menu below and then photos at the bottom of the post. The order of wines with the dishes could have been approached various ways but especially as more wines were added we just got cracking and took it as we went.

Menu
Vitello Tonnato
Russian salad Crostini's
Sliced Speck
Vegetable Fritti
-
Pesce Crudo – Monkfish, Crab, Fennel, Sea Bass Carpaccio, Mackerel, Porcini
Radicchio, Artichoke and Fonduta
Carne Cruda
-
Pigeon - heart and liver
Cavolo Nero Ravioli
Taglierini, Pheasant Ragu
Venison, Artichokes and Cocco beans
-
Cheese course
-
Custard Tart, blood orange and yoghurt

The Wines

As is almost always the case at Zucca we started with Ferrari and the 2001, it was savoury, biscuity and more of a food fizz than an aperitif.

So then it was straight into the Rieslings and we decided to start with the Alsatian ones. The 1998 Riesling Jubilee from Hugel was decent. Lemon and lime, lightish, dry but not really that interesting. The next two were both from Zind-Humbrecht, 1994 Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain which was the pick of this first flight for me. Oily, rich, a little orangey and then some dry toffee apple to go with it. The 1988 Riesling Clos Hauserer was a combination of old socks (that can be good in white Bordeaux but not sure elsewhere) and bitter lemon. I remember finding it intriguing start with but it then got a little one dimensional and clumsy. As a trio these were not bad but not exciting either, may be they would have been better served later or just drink better in isolation. I am not that good on Alsace, I should be better.

Right, Germany, oh and one Austrian. Muller kicked us off with 2004 Scharzhofberger Kabinett and it was an electric wake up call after the first flight. My notes simply say "electric, very good indeed, lovely, focussed, clean". The 2006 Niderhuser Hermannshohe Spatlese by Donnhoff was next, alive, opulent, rounded sweetness and unctuousness. The 2006's are like this generally, I think it is a vintage to drink mostly in it's youth for the richness. The 1989 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Spatlese from Schloss Schonborn is one of those intriguing wines you can't quite pin down. There was a slight orangey aroma from tiredness but then also speck ham, oily but dry texture and then a note of peppermint tea. Odd but interestingly so. The Austrians joined the party with 2006 Durnsteiner Hollerin Riesling Smaragd from Pichler, a producer who I have had a few things from now and I need to know more. This was good, very pure Riesling but with richness, also a floral side, impressive.

Ah yes, that'll be the Rieslings!

So now onto the reds and two very contrasting wines, 2009 Barolo Cascina Francia from G.Conterno was out of magnum (not that we needed the volume!). It showed very well indeed (bias coming here). I love the traditional Barolos young as well as older and more mature. There was soft sweet red fruit, a little star anise time and herbs. Worth remembering there was no Monfortino in 2009 so that barrel was in this wine. Next up was 2009 Franchetti from Tenuta di Passopisciaro in Sicily, a blend of 20% Petit Verdot and 80% Cesanese d'Affile. It is a rich, high octane wine with blueberry and blackberry to the fore, it is high in alcohol but not clumsy, not bone dry and certainly not for everyone.

Voerzio was up next, it's a producer that tends to divide opinion and with my "traditional only" hat on not one I am that interested in but there is a lot of talk of him going back to a much more traditional way of making wine (from 2009/10 onwards by most accounts). This would be excellent because one thing is not in doubt and that it the ability Voerzio has for growing good fruit. The overall style is quite saturated and fore square. 2007 Barolo Cerequio had a good saline edge to it, not OTT as 2007's can be, it was quite taut and tight, impressive. 2007 Barolo Rocche Del’Annuniata was more lifted, this was a good wine, nice elegant fruit. The 2006 Barolo Brunate was, as expected, less compromising, more savoury, more masculine.

We now went south for 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva in magnum from Poggio di Sotto it had an almost off dry ripe sweet fruitedness to it, very drinkable, not heavy or light just in a very easy middle ground. The fruit was on the red side and the wine seemed very alive, 60 months in old oak can still leave wines very alive as it does in Barolo. Sadly 2000 Barolo Falletto ‘Le Rocche del Falletto’ from Bruno Giacosa was corked, gutted!

1995 Barolo Falletto from Giacosa was delicious, the fruit having that lovely bruised character, slightly big and gamey, youthful yet easy, a lovely wine. 1990 Costa Russi from Gaja was a bit of a tart, not a bad thing, treacle-like gravy, heady and opulent in a beef stock and soy style. A little loose and easy, very 1990 to be honest. Then time for what was fairly universally wine of the night (not that it's a competition Sussex!) and this was 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva from none other than Gianfranco Soldera. This wine has everything and as result is actually hard to describe, it it persistent but not heavy, very long but refreshing also, some sweetness but also a lovely savoury balance, exceptional.

As though one Soldera is not enough we then had his 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, this wine has a lighter more red fruit profile, it is still very, totally, balanced and refreshing. It is like a more feminine version of the 2006 that I have had a few times now. The partner to this wine was a rather bizarre and intriguing 1995 Cabernet Franc Alzero -from Giuseppe Quintarelli. It is not often that you find "Dime Bars" as a tasting comment on a red wine but they were certainly here along with some other toffeed weirdness and a little coffee but the wine is also off dry and fruited, all rather bizarre, if attractively so.

Back to Riesling with 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap from JJ Prum, what a great palate cleanser. Precise, sweet yes but with focus and real zip. 2005 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Auslese Gold Cap from Dönnhoff was a little more evolved and certainly quite opulent. Then 2003 Graacher Domprobst Auslese from Willi Schaefer was a little weird, very appley and a little dryer that you might expect but then 2003's are a weird "bag" generally. 

1989 Herrenberg Beerenauslese, Maximin Grünhaus Von Schubert was another opulent expression with clear Tarte Tatin flavours. 1976 Dürkheimer Feuerberg Auslese from Johannes Karst & Söhne, was really quite dry for Auslese and in honesty that is about all my note says, things were getting late!! Alas the 1976 Scharzhofberg Auslese from Egon Müller sadly was corked!

A really wonderful night of delicious wines stunning food and much generosity all round, what next time??!!

Pesce crudo – monkfish, crab, fennel, sea bass carpaccio

Radicchio, artichoke and fonduta

Carne cruda

Pigeon, it’s heart and liver

Cavolo Nero Ravioli

Taglierini, Pheasant Ragu

Venison, artichokes and cocco beans

Custard tart, blood orange and yoghurt