Sunday, 31 August 2014

Back from holiday with something of a bang...

Before I went away on holiday and enjoyed a wide array of wines I had organised a few lunches as catch ups with customers. It ended up being quite a run of wines, and food for that matter. Zucca features large as usual but the main reason is you can adapt a meal there for any pair of wines, to last any amount of time and it is great value. So things "kicked off" with a Tuesday dinner at Zucca and a pair of Grand Crus! 
Not my average Tuesday!
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2011, Bonneau du Martray is a wine I know well, it is superb now although balanced so will age well. There is a tiny kiss of oak that just frames things but is very understated. In general I feel there are quite a few over oaked Corton-Charlemagnes out there, often because a producer has very little and therefore limited control of the % of new oak. With conversation, and a certain amount of gossip flowing it was then time for red!
Musigny Grand Cru 1995, de Vogue not a vintage of this wine I have had before and an interest vintage in general for Burgundy. It gets very little mention as it is not quite in the "mature" category of say '91 and '93…nor is it in the "continue to wait" category like '96, '99, '02. This wine was stunning on the nose, youthful and pure but also serious with a close knit intensity…in honestly the plate is still a shade muted and restrained, good and balanced but just not that expressive. It is not too early to drink this wine but it is not yet at it's peak I would say and this was certainly a good bottle…a very generous opportunity to taste.
the starter will be... 

The following day I went with a buying team colleague to try the food for a Prum dinner we are doing for customers with Katharina Prum at Quilon restaurant in late September. I had never eaten there before and lots of work had gone into the menu. It was, frankly speaking, a revelation, great dishes (a few photos of which are below) that just deliver oodles of flavour in a clean way with a total lack of pretension, I had decided I'll go back even before I left. There a was another thing that made this interesting and that was a chance to have most of the wines we will have at the dinner at the preview, ordinarily we'd take a couple of bottles to a run through and see how we get on. I must say before the notes that I probably drink more Prum Kabinett in a year than any other wine so the levels of bias will be large, even for me!

Estate Kabinett 2011 - Ready, generous yet elegant, frankly speaking this would taste good through a straw. 
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese 2004 - Slight development but not yet petrol-like, very fine, very clean, a lean elegance, approaching middle age but in an effortless fashion, just my sort of thing.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2004 - youthful, some richness of texture but beyond that quite closed, will give this air before the dinner, serious.
Bernkasteler Badstube Auslese 2003 - In the zone, refinement is there but ultimately it is hedonistic, an extrovert, waxy, very clean nose, more to come but why wait.
Venison and coconut
Bernkasteler Badstube Auslese 2007 - Some spritz, if it were a sportsperson it'd still be in an age category but have people signing it up for the longterm, there is masses to come but it is poised, proper job! 
Graacher Himmelreich Auslese 1997 - A little flashy and flirty as you'd expect of 1997, some orange rind from development, a wine that tightened up and focussed in glass, too easy to start, getting better by the minute.   
Graacher Himmelreich Auslese Goldkapsel 2003 - The first thought was "old school Prum" a dash of reduction and some sulphur, some spritz also, there is no reason you would EVER think this is from 2003, pure, class and quality...
Then…Thursday came and back to Zucca with a couple of beauties...
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2004, Bonneau du Martray - This is a wine that does have some bad bottles mixed in (see summer Holidays post) but this was the opposite, linear, balanced and pretty dam special. A food white Burgundy with a saline edge and a very proper acidity. Monfortino 1996 was the main reason this luncheon happened and it was wonderful, this is a serious wine with plenty of structure but not hard structure, you need to know where you are with this wine. It loves air and it loves to be thought about and drunk slowly, in many ways it is the traditional persona of Monfortino, uncompromising, quality and long lived. A cracking lunch, Zucca's food did it serious justice.
Then friday, back at Zucca, a long overdue catch up with a mate in the trade who writes a great Blog that varies from mine in style but I can safely say we are from the same "a good bottle is one that seems to disappear quickly" school of thought. The starting point for this luncheon was a post he wrote about 2005 Bordeaux. Knowing that Roc de Cambes 2009 was a real favourite of his I said well let's both take a 2005 to Zucca! 
Roc de Cambes 2005 - this was my bottle which I bought the second it was released in the campaign, I tasted it from barrel and loved it immediately. On this showing I was not wrong, bright, fresh and with a focus that is quite un like most Bordeaux. I tasted very much "mono-varietal", I'll try to keep my hands off it for a few more years but basically it is delicious.
Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 2005 - May be not the very best bottle of this, it drank well but under close inspection/thought it seemed a little "blunt" or lacking in wow factor, a true decision deferred.
That was a week done but then just as I was about to write this post I had another luncheon in the diary with a customer who insisted on bringing the wines and with this individual that is always a good thing.
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 1996, Domaine Leflaive - Was class, the colour suggested good things as soon as it was poured…there was that trademark gunflint reduction and lots of fruit, the real class though was, as ever, in the finish and the way it showed such refinement as it warmed up, it was still evolving and sweetening up 2 hours later.
Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano 1990, Giacosa - was glorious, an open and expressive nose from the beginning, a lovely easy opulence but with a feminine focus. This was as much "1990" as the Monfortino above was "1996". The palate was fairly delicate and fine-boned with lovely red fruit and a dash of savouriness that never became too much…a really wonderful pairing.
It really is one of the great things about the wine trade that customers become friends and want to drink these great bottles…long may it continue that way, it is what wine is about.

Monday, 18 August 2014

Holiday bottles in France - 2014



The family holiday this year was spent, with another family, down in the Dordogne near Beaulieu. One of the advantages to driving is that I can take a couple of cases of wine. We had a great house with a pool, very remote but most of the time was either spent cooking, talking about food and wine or drinking and eating!

I took various things and we hunted around the supermarkets, town markets and a few shops for the others. I was not making full tasting notes as this was a break but I have put a few comments below.
The local "drop"
Cahors is the nearest area of real production so we sampled plenty during out time. One of the favourite producers for me was Clos de Gamot which has old vines and seemed to have a nice and unobtrusive style. I think little or no new oak too which is always a good thing in my book. There did seems to be two styles from the small sample we drank. I am going to call them, "rustic tradition" and "Wannabe Argentinians". The former has no fear of funky aromas and a bit of dirty spice, medium weight, more interesting to my mind. The later is more viscous and technically more fruited and pure but seemed to lack a creation sense of place or uniqueness.
A few Bordeaux
Not being far from Bordeaux a few bottles were always going to creep into the range from that great Region. Grand Place 2009 was a little overstated as the name suggests. Baron de Lestac 2011 white was ok but overoaked which slightly spoilt what could have been a lovely good value bottle. Les Carmes Haut Brion 2004 which I bought a few of some years back has been disappointing me of late, some of the sweat charm has gone and it is a little too savoury now. A fine lesson in not ageing a wine you like as it is/was.
Some Burgs
From left to right; A very ordinary Bourgogne Blanc 2012, a delicious with food Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2007 from Vincent Dampt, an insipid and uninteresting Julienas 2013 (yes Beaujolais is not high on my list but this was just dull) and a bad bottle of Corton Charlemagne 2004 from Bonneau du Martray (see next post for a good bottle!).
Got to love the Germans
The German selection was probably the strongest in terms of the producers shown. The magnum of Prum was real highlight. I had never hidden my love of the Prum wines and this was just another great example (Wehlener Sonnenhur 2011 magnum), it'll age well but is so delicious now. The Spatlese Jubilee bottling from Schloss Schonborn is an absolute favourite of Mrs H and rightly so, very intense fruit. The two Mullers are the estate Rielsings from 2009 and 2010 and they are true to type, 2010 more linear and more focussed, 2009 easier and lovely if simpler.
As predicted!
Of course there was a showing from Italy! and I have to say they were on good form. From left to right:
Brunello di Montalcino 2006 - We had two bottles of this and my only real regret is that I did not buy more, it is youthful but stunning and just so enjoyable, I can't think if anytime when I wouldn't love to just open and enjoy this. 
Chianti Classico Reserva Le Baroncole 2010, San Giusto - I am a fan of San Giusto and think that Percarlo is great and the basic Chianti is a "no brainer" BUT this may be the weak link (well at this young age anyhow), it is just too oaked and that masks what is obviously good fruit…a good wine but not what it could be!
Avvoltore 2006 - Sturdy showing from this wine, very good with big meat dishes, the more recent vintages (2002 onwards) appear not to quite have the charm of old but this is a good wine.
Barolo Brunate 2007, Marcarini - As with most 2007 Barolos I believe in serving this cool and after a quick double decant, it is feminine for Barolo, a Volnayesque Barolo of sorts. Very good way to translate the vintage, enjoyable if not serious.
Barbera d'Alba 2012, Negri - A good richly fruited if not heavy Barbera, good all-rounder, best with another 12 months but good.
The rest!
The highlights here:
Crozes-Hermitage VV 2011, Tardieu-Laurent - This is too young by rights but is delicious in a mini-Hermitage sort of way…savoury bacon with dark fruit. 
Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc VV 2011 - I have had several bottles of this now and whilst it'll age well it is just so balanced and lovely now, not too much structure, not too much fruit just bliss.
Rebmann generally - Not a producer I know but they seem to be a big firm or a negoce who do all that alsace offers, the Pinot Gris got drunk in good quantity, nice simple and enjoyable wines.

There were a good few beers along the way but the sensible thing we did was never go to the fortifiers or spirits (well baring a bit of Pastis).

Monday, 28 July 2014

Three special bottles and two new (to me) restaurants...

I was very lucky last week to try two new restaurants and have some lovely bottles...

First up was a trip to Umu in Bruton Place, just off Berkeley Sq. This is a location I had heard a massive amount about..."the best sushi outside Japan" is even? The setting is a nice mix of West and East, the crowd for lunch was a good mix. I was well led through the menu by both waiter and my fellow diner who had a few visits under his belt. I didn't take notes or pics of the food (it just didn't feel right to do so) but without doubt there were some of the best mouthfuls I have ever eaten! Sushi to die for, excellent Lobster, incredible grade 11 Japanese Wagyu beef...it may be pricey BUT it's very very good and as an eating experience flavour-wise it is hard to beat!

So what did we drink? Well, to start a bottle of Billecart-Salmon 2004 which had good focus, a nice texture and performed well. To follow it was Chevalier-Montrachet 2010 from Francois Carillon. The historic Carillon estate was split after the 2009 vintage to allow Francois and Jacques to set up their own Domaines. The 2010's were the first for each. The holdings were split but amongst them was Chevalier and Bienvenues and to split these would, as I understand it, left both with two little to be able to really "use". So Chevalier went to Francois and Bienvenues to Jacques. This wine is in such short supply that the UK gets bottles not cases. I had never had it before but, whilst I am totally biased, I was incredibly impressed, there is great acidity but also a flattering amount of lemon fruit, generous and full, over three hours (having had a double decant mid morning) it got better and better. This is a Chevalier with a nod to both the Montrachet and Batard, very smart wine.

The red to follow was a real treat - Monfortino 1982. The last time I had this was at Monfortino Magnum Monday 1970-2006 back in May and on that day it showed well but at the same time I was very keen to see it in it's own right. It did not disappoint one bit. I decided on a cool temperature (crucial) and a gentle double decant 2-3 hours before lunch. There was good red fruits as well as that slightly ferrous saline edge, an almost perfect time to drink it. The 1982 will never be a monster. The vintage as a whole remains under appreciated I feel, there is real class and grace to the best wines. It went superbly with the beef but would have drunk brilliantly alone as well...

All in all a really rather splendid way to spend a Tuesday in July.

The second new restaurant could not really have been much more different - Mash Steakhouse - in Soho. This is the only site of a Danish set of restaurants set below ground in Brewer Street. The food is good, well sourced steaks and the selection of sides and starters you would expect BUT the thing really gets exciting when you see the wine list. On this occasion those I was with had, very generously, arranged for a bottle to be there but more of that in a minute. We first had a glass, ok two, of de Fieuzal Blanc 1990 which was fully mature and slightly clinging on by it's fingernails but nevertheless was a test of the senses. With starters over it was time for the red - Grands Echezeaux 1995, DRC. The only previous time I had this was during  Grands Echezeaux, DRC 14-vintages. This bottle was from a private cellar that had been supplied by the agent but was a little damp hence the state of the label. The state of the wine was the opposite. Fresh almost ripe raspberry red in fruit character with a glorious persistence and life, it is hard to say much more than that, it was glorious and perfect now but certainly no rush needed. I can't imagine this wine will ever be one to make savoury "old bones" it's a feminine Grands Echezeaux. What a treat!

Saturday, 19 July 2014

Didier pops in!

Didier Depond was in town briefly a couple of weeks back and one of the things we did was a small lunch for a few members of the press who couldn't make the Salon 2002 Uk launch back in March.
I was lucky to get the call and really enjoyed a tasting followed by lunch. The same wines were served at each. This may seem strange but far from it - getting the chance to taste and analyse a wine and then separately to drink it and see it develop in glass is actually not something I get to do that often.

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV (Magnum) I am completely biased in loving this wine almost more than any vintage. When I finally get my priorities sorted I will lay down a decent batch of it (in bottles and magnums) and give it the extra 3-4 years I like (Delamotte ages their wines double the required amount anyhow). I love traditional bottle ageing of Champagne far more than late disgorgement. This is all about white flowers and poise, a little toast and spice but minerality.

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2004 Drinking very well already, this will age well but is probably best drum before the Delamotte 2002 which is more strict and taut. There is generosity of white fruit again but a honeyed note also, then a finish which has a lovely saline edge.

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Collection 1999 A recently disgorged bottling of the 1999 (the normal bottles are spot on now as well!). 1999 was a sunny and warm vintage. This has a fairly opulent nature, reminding me of Meursault more than Puligny, there is also a briney character, this is complex and spot on now, no rush mind you.

Salon 2002 "Non Dose" A unique wine that is actually only served in "Sketch" restaurant in London. As the name and pic below suggest there is no dosage. The nose is very classy Blanc de Blancs, very focussed, not overly tight but very hard to describe, a wine giving little away but with layer upon layer of nuance. It is on the palate that you can see the uniqueness of this, there is a real tension and cleanliness, almost a little tannic bite too.

Salon 2002 Probably the only time I will hear Didier refer to "normal Salon"…tasting very well, just as it did on release a few months back, I don't feel this will close up completely because (as with other good 2002's) there is very great balance, but I do think it'll be 5-6 years before a second phase gets entered…

And so the guests left energised!!

Wines in Wales

I am very late in posting this but there we go!

Our annual family trip down to Wales (back in May!) for a week is always great chance to try lots of bottles especially with my "Cousin -in-law" Cynan who loves his wine, having contributed lots of the below, and cooks amazing food!


24-5-14
CNDP VV Blanc 2011, Tardieu-laurent
Lovely, a bit of oak but "in check", richness of white fruits and a little sweet toffee, so drinkable.
Les Carmes-Haut-Brion 2004
Good nose or classical cedar, black fruit and gravel…the palate is a little dry now and a little foursquare. The sweetness does not last. having had this a few times I am ever so slightly disappointed by it's balance now.

25-5-14
La Roche Blanche 2013 Muscadet Cotes de Grandieu sur lie, Domaine Herbauges
Very taut and mineral, white fruit may be but mostly stones and acidity. The screw cap closure I think makes it even more exaggerated would be interesting if decanted. Decent though.

Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2007, Vincent Dampt
In good shape with an unctuous nutty (unsalted) texture. Needs food really as there is a slight side of oxidation without it.

CNDP VV Blanc 2011, Tardieu-laurent
Lovely again, a bit of oak but in check, richness of white fruits and a little sweet toffee, so drinkable. Very good with cheese and still balanced at a warmer temperature. Fond of this!
Chorey-Les-Beaune Piece du Chapitre 2004, Domaine Tollot-Beaut
Nice wine with elegance and not at all forced, slightly lifted green/red fruit, not amazing but a decent 2004.

Chorey-Les-Beaune Piece du Chapitre 2007, Domaine Tollot-Beaut
A more decadent fruit than the 2004, more black amongst the red, good and enjoyable, nicely balanced, I like this.

Les Carmes-Haut-Brion 2004
The end of the bottle from the day before, a little drier but still ok.

Barbaresco 2006, Produttori del Barbaresco
Lovely, gentle for 2006 with a nice fragrance, there is the grip you expect of 2006 but it is not a waste to drink now.

Barolo Brunate 2006, Marcarini
Quite a silky wine for a 2006, so more "Brunate" in style than it is 2006 in style. Good texture and not pronounced tannin. I liked this also.

26-5-14
Ardeche Chardonnay 2012, Louis Latour
Fine, a little oxidative and flabby but decent enough, unexciting.

Passopisciaro 2006 Double magnum
Crunchy red bruised fruit, a lovely nervousness and life, lifted, not light in flavour but not dense in texture. Great minerality and if anything even better on day 2. You can tell the Contrada’s (the single vineyard sites that until 2008 went into the generic wine) are in here.

27-5-14
Que Bonito Cacareaba 2004, Benjamin Romeo
Oranges and Melons with delicious unctuousness. There is some acidity but it is very soft, almost a creamy texture with some botrytis. Entering a slightly lifeless stage. my last bottle gone, always meant to leave one for decades but...

Barolo Villero 2007, Brovia
Understated lightness as though they have picked very early to avoid the heat, there is almost a spritz, it was fine to drink but I am not sure it’s quite right. Second time I have had it and I remain unconvinced.

Passopisciaro 2006 Dmag
Again and getting better if anything!

Recioto della Valpolicella 2010, Tesauro
Lots of dark cherry and a few forest fruits then intensity of viscosity and chocolate, long, intense but not without refinement and class. Good.

28-5-14

Que Bonito Cacareaba 2004, Benjamin Romeo
The last little bit - good!

Barolo Cannubbio 2007, Francesco Rinaldi
Quite dense and structured, not too warm. There is focus and I really think this estate did well in 2007.

Recioto della Valpolicella 2010, Tesauro
Good again not oxidised at all despite half open bottle from previous evening.

29-5-14

El Aprendiz "Albarinblanco" 2013, Leyenda del Paramo - Very clean and focussed, crisp and zippy, almost Gruner like! makes you hungry! 


Le Rocchette Barbera d"Asti 2010, Tenuta Olim Bauda - good wine this with that tell tale cool(er) vintage Barbera cleanness, has precision and very food friendly...





I am sure there are bottles I have missed!

Friday, 18 July 2014

Picque Caillou…a great find

On Tuesday evening, at Otto's, Paul Marus and I hosted a Chateau Picque Caillou dinner with the Proprietor Paulin Calvet. 
Picque Caillou itself is in Pessac-Leognan and is an estate we have worked with consistently since the 1960's. Paulin spoke very well on the evening, he has an almost unique position in that he has a view as a producer and owner but also, having worked with Ets J-P.Moueix, a view as a Merchant and Negoce. This gives a very real and balanced view of the wines and trade in Bordeaux.

The venue, Otto's, has been open since November 2011 and is going from strength to strength with traditional French cooking the backbone of all that goes on. A visit is strongly recommended.

So, Chateau Picque Caillou, a producer of both red and white with a total size of 20 hectares. The Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, which has a normal blend of 60%/40% accounts for 1.5 hectares, the remainder is Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and split fairly evenly. There is no desire here to make "thick" wines with richness at the expense of fruit and freshness. Quite the opposite in fact. Elegance and classicism would be more apt words.

The format of the evening was a relaxed one, a few words (and some very amusing anecdotes) from Paulin with each wine and vintage and then lots of good conversation.

We started with Picque Caillou Blanc 2008 on arrival, the only white of the night as sadly it all sells out so quickly on release. A honeyed nose that opens up as temperature in the glass rises...there is good balancing grapefruit acidity...a wine in it's mid-life phase. As the Ravioli of Snails arrived we shifted to the Red - the 2010 and 2011 vintages.

Picque Caillou 2011 - I really liked this, fresh red fruit and a good acidity that mean this wine has focus but accessible charm at the same time. Very enjoyable now, straight off the bat...now and for the next 10 years.

Picque Caillou 2010 - Delicious, masculine and darker in fruit than the 2011. In no way hard though. Complex and fascinating. Very enjoyable and appreciable now but one to leave tucked away for 3-5 years, if you can, and then enjoyed for many years.

"A great wine is always a great wine from day one onwards"

Was what Paulin said by way of a general comment that applied well to this 2010. The vintage was almost ignored until it was picked such was the obsession with how good 2009 looked. It was then a little embarrassing when producers had to say the 2010 was another "once in a lifetime experience".

The 2009 vs 2010 question reared it's head and when asked for a comparison between 2009 and 2010 Paulin used a new (to me) but very good analogy..."some people prefer a soft bed that is easy and a little decadent (2009) and others prefer a harder, stricter bed (2010)".

With a “pair” of Beef Wellingtons hovering by the table is was most certainly time to move to an older maturing vintage in Magnum:

Picque Caillou 2000 - There is a seriousness and mineral intensity about this wine, still quite tight it is more "strict" that "flirty"...a savoury wine for serious conversation. A very fine effort, drink from now on but no rush at all.

Cheese then followed and with it a vintage where the high percentage of Merlot in Pessac really made a difference - 1998. You had to pick early and once that was done the later ripening Cabernets got rained on, rather heavily. The resulting wine is really lovely... 

Picque Caillou 1998
As with the 2000 this was from magnum. A real charmer, easy structure and lovely sweet aromatic softly developed red fruit. I could drink rather a lot of this. Perfect now but the balance is such that there is no hurry at all.

We did add in one other wine to finish things off -Chateau Briatte 2007, Sauternes. It showed very well and the freshness belied the high Semillon content.

It had been a cracking evening. The next morning the first thing I did was buy a case each of the 2011 and 2012 (not tasted but good Merlot you see!). I am hoping to go and see Paulin in August whilst on holiday, I'll report back more afterwards! 

Saturday, 12 July 2014

Three amigos do Zucca...

Alessandro and Megan - thank you!
This was a lunch that popped into the diary at a weeks notice. Irish Pete and Nobby (aka Halifax) happened to be in town, so the instruction was "Lunch and bring a red"…So within seconds Zucca was booked and off we went. Nobby was late as usual but…

The menu was:

Zucca friti
Carpaccio of Seabass
Antipasti Misti
Vitello Tonnato
Rare Onglet, almonds
-
Casarecce, Hazelnut Pesto
Chitarra, Cuttle fish & Datterini tomatoes
-
Veal chop and/or Slow cooked Rabbit
-
Custard tart, Raspberries & yoghurt


We kicked off on the wines with a delicious bottle of Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millenaires 1995. This is not a Cuvee I have had before but certainly one I would like to try again. A really creamy richness, quite "aged-DP" like. Little dash of iodine. All in balance and perfect now, some saline but mostly sweet fruit.

The next wine was served “Blind” by Nobby. It had Pete and I in trouble from the off, we darted around Rhone, Rioja and Loire before having I revealed as Meursault 1er Cru Sous Les Bois 1995 by Robert Ampeau which was a surprise. There was a honeyed richness to the wine but with a herbal edge and an almost tea like quality. The "apples" in the wine became more toffeed with time. It was good and very interesting but I don't think I'd rush out and buy more. Very old school and good for it. Better when cool where interestingly the Heidsieck was exception when still and warmer (always a good sign). The actual vineyard is interesting as I know it but only for red. Thierry Matrot makes a great 1er Cru Blagny Rouge from the site.

So now it was time for some red as the pastas arrived. We decided on serving Bordeaux and Burgundy alongside each other so they could spend time in glass (especially the latter):

Mouton-Rothschild 1996 - This is probably the most exciting bottle of left bank Bordeaux I have drunk in the last 6 months. Really great, classical cabernet, low alcohol, great moreish texture. Lovely balance of sweetness with a cedar note and a dash of ripe leather (if you know what I mean). My note has 'more bordeaux should taste like this' written across it. Best served in magnum I'd say a bottle not enough between three.

Richebourg 1999, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti - Brooding and serious was the first thought. Just as it should be. Dense with rich black/red fruit. Incense, spice and a little tea. Over the 2 hours or so it was in glass the wine did relax and the fruit shifted from black/red to red/black. There was always a weight and texture to this. Very very fine and the wine of the day from an exciting future perspective. Does well to combine the freshness and focus of 1999 with the Masculinity of Richebourg, best re-checked in 3-5 years I'd say. Very fine and very generous.

Still time before pudding for one more red - Barolo 1967, Giacomo Conterno - This was a decent but not exceptional bottle of this wine. It had real depth good acidic lift and a lovely grainy, bricky texture (an acquired taste for some). The fruit was on the redder/orangey side with a little ferrous element, some resin and sandalwood. Nice. 

The best custard tart there is...
Nobby had pre-ordered a tart (Custard) for pudding and very sensible it was too as it is as good an example as it's possible to get - Custard tart meets Creme Brûlée. The wine to accompany was Yquem 1995 in half bottle. This was deliciously opulent and a little like the Mouton just required no headspace, it is just a great drink. My note says "why keep?" not that you shouldn't or couldn't but I am not sure what would make this better. It isn't profound but then most wine isn't, it is "smiley juice" and that's what matters.

It was a great lunch with great wine, great food and cracking conversation…until next time!