A proper gathering...Macellaio's with friends...

This was a very fun lunch. Mr S co-ordinated us and foursome was completed by Zucca Sam, Mr Mann and myself. Having not seen Sam since the closing (not a dry eye in the house) of Zucca it was a long overdue Lunch. We also had Mr Mann's engagement to celebrate. The venue was to be Macellaio in Exmouth market. Not a place I knew. They specialise in sharing plates with a focus on Tuna (aged 7 days) and Beef (aged 7 weeks). It's a fun place.

Everyone brought a bottle or two and away we went. The starting point was Dom Ruinart Rose 1996 which has a bright colour but certainly more tizer than Salon pink, on the nose it was fruited and balanced no real signs of age barring a certain sense of roundness. The palate was generous and a little lush, the parts having fallen nicely into place. We then moved onto Meursault 2008 from Coche-Dury, a refined nose, focussed and very true to 2008 if almost more like Grand Cru Chablis than Meursault in its drive and elegance, very impressive indeed. There was that dash of reduction but no more than that. Long and elegant and certainly a wine to treat like a great red, plenty of air and plenty of time to appreciate it.

My bottle was next - Ausone 1975. A very kind 40th gift last year from a friend and customer who appears in these pages rather a lot. Sam and I are both 1975er's so it seemed a good moment. We decided to pop the cork, it broke but not badly, and pour straight into the four glasses as you never quite know how these older wines will be. We could in fact have been decanted as it got better in glass rather than fading. There was a ferrous smoothness to the palate, the texture of tannins remained but not dryness. The fruit character was darker than you might expect with a definite Cab Franc character at times. Velvety and whilst fully mature not on the way down.

L'Eglise-Clinet 1985 was the second Bordeaux and reminded me, in quality rather than style terms, of a brilliant bottle of the same estates 1989 some years ago. This was a wine that got better and better with air. Soft and voluptuous but in no way lacking definition. Darker fruits initially that got redder and more expressive with time, a wine at it's early peak. Such a treat, exciting!

Now to a more expected region, given this crowd, Barolo. Two vintages of the same wine - Barolo Sarmassa from Brezza. Brezza are a good producer based in central Barolo with good holdings and well worth a visit. On one trip we dropped in for lunch and had some fun as you can see here. The two vintages were a real treat as well - 1990 then the 1989. I felt they performed as you might expect though this was exaggerated by the 1990 having been double decanted with some time and the 1989 just decanted at the restaurant and served. The 1990 had more opulence and more "mass" the 1989 had more drive, vigour and energy, more definition. Less bruised fruit more saline. I like both but you would always pick the 1989 if being fussy. They both have time ahead but as with all the wines here they are mature.

Mr S wasn't that pleased with the other wine he bought but Sam, Tom and I were all happy enough to drink it - Barolo Villero 1978 from Giacosa (white Label) is a wine he knows well. The nose was a little bruised and aged but the palate had a sweetness to add to the slightly grainy texture. An expressive mature Barolo may be not but a good, interesting, glass of aged Nebbiolo, oh yes!

A predictable ending...

From there things became predictably Negroni based before a beer on departure...happy days. Macellaio's I will be visiting again. Chaps...thanks for the bottles and the laughs.

Last but one Zucca…Magnum Party...

Following on from the First of last suppers post of a week ago this was the last but one meal I will have at Zucca. The last is this coming Tuesday (22nd), if you are there then pop in and say hello. I was a lovely gathering of eight pulled together by a customer and friend who goes by the moniker of "Mr Magnum", so the theme? Well "bring a magnum" of course.

We simply ordered off the menu keeping things as classically Zucca as possible - from the Zucca Friti through the Taglierini to the Veal Chop. The wines - with nothing corked, hurrah - were all rather splendid.

Krug Grand Cuvee, is there a more sensible thing a wine buyer can do than buy the Champagne/s they like and lay them down? Especially when it is magnums and it is Krug. This Grand Cuvee magnum was purchased (I know he has more!) in around 2010 and was just delicious. Moreish and a dash toasty but with the drive to be lovely on its own…with a couple of our number being late this just disappeared amongst the six of us in no time at all. A lovely start.

As we sat down we moved onto a pair of whites:

St.Joseph Blanc Les Granits 2009 from Chapoutier got a conversation going about what a good, and some times under rated, producer this is. There was real richness that came out more and more as the wine went from cold to just right. There was a ripe apricot note as well as a slightly waxy texture. A nice stage to be drinking it from my perspective. I liked this and it was nicely different from it's "partner". 

Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2007 from Domaine Leflaive showed a lovely combination of the richness and broad shoulders you want, and expect, of Batard but with the drive and focus you want in a 2007. There was a little reduction and a dash of saline too but ultimately you had a wine in lovely balance. I am sure it will age well but on this form it is cracking now.

And so to reds...

Barolo Brunate 2004 from Marcarini this was my contribution and formed the first of two barolo 2004's. I had taken it to a recent Zucca dinner where a few of us had taken a look at Barolo 2004 in general. It was youthfully nervous and precise, got giving quite as much as I remember but drinking well. Somehow, and rather stupidly, I did not pay as much attention as it was my magnum so my notes are rather hopeless.

Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba 2004 from Giacosa was in all honesty a step up on mine. With cracking texture and richness combined with freshness and a lovely balance of fruit and some, just evolving, more earthy aromas. Still young of course but not indecently so. This reminded me of visiting there back in May as part of what will be right up there as the trip of the year if I get round to doing a retrospective at the year's end. Lovely balance to this wine.

From here we went to Bordeaux.

Magdelaine 2001, this was superb straight out of the magnum and took me back to a Magnum lunch this time last year where the 1985 pretty much stole the show. I understand why this estate has been "rolled into" (for want of a better phrase) Belair-Monange (which is actually about 75% Magdelaine as a wine at the moment) but a part of me is sad that the name is going as for me it encapsulates what St.Emilion, the most bi-polar of Bordeaux Communes, can be: Serious, savoury, age worthy and so tasty without being over the top. I'll be looking to scoop up bottles and mags where I can find them.

Lynch Bages 1988, was a little green initially but what I sometimes refer to as good green, it adds an edge of freshness and vibrancy. The blacker fruits and more classical tobacco and leather appeared later and made this a lovely foil for the Magdelaine.

It was time then for one last bottle and it was a bottle off the Zucca list that I had been eyeing up for as long as I can remember:

Brunello Di Montalcion 2003 from Soldera and the only non Magnum. I have been lucky enough to visit this great estate (we look after the wines in Asia) on four or five occasions now and I always find the prospect so very exciting (I have the most recent visit to write up - possibly today). The man - Gianfranco - is as wonderful as he is misunderstood. The wines are often otherworldly and I do not say that lightly. I can't think of any producer who is further ahead of the field in quality terms with the wine he produces from their specific grape - Sangiovese in his case. This was a lovely bottle that is just moving from the primary to the best stage, red fruit, iron and a fresh savoury edge.

A wonderful dinner with longstanding friends over equally good wine and food…what "it" is all about.

Irish goes into his 50th year

I am a few blogs behind at the moment but this one has jumped the queue so that I can write it up while things are fresh in my mind. The other reason is that it is Irish Pete's actual birthday today and the lunch that follows was to celebrate this a couple of days early. Irish is one of the select few with a nickname on this blog…I can't quite remember from where or when the name started but there we go, Halifax (aka Nobby) started it.

So an email came round 10 days ago, can you make a relaxed lunch at Kitchen W8? I was delighted to be able to say yes. Come the day we were 8 in total and a lovely line up had fallen into place. As an aside it now often seems easier to organise dinner 3-10 days in advance rather than with lots of notice.

The menu that Kitchen W8 put together, of 4 half main courses, was spot on and is listed below (with a few pics at the bottom). I must have been there four or five times now and will be actively looking for chances to go back, I think the food and service are both very well pitched, "relaxed attention to detail" may be. Sadly living North and working just south east of the city it is not as close as I'd like.

Croquettes of Mangalitza Pork with Smoked Yolk, Glazed Salsify and Black Pudding

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Thinly Sliced Smoked Eel with Grilled Mackerel, Golden Beetroots and Sweet Mustard

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Fillet of Cornish Brill, Delica Pumpkin, Chestnuts, Trompettes, Turnip Tops and Red Wine

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Slow Cooked Short Rib of Beef, Parsley Potato, Heritage Carrots, Savoy Cabbage, Horseradish

And so to the wines:

Salon 2002, ok I am biased but Salon is never a bad way to start any meal, the 2002 is a teenager at best but a perfectly mannered and promising one at that. Brisk with great freshness, Chablis-esque possibly but not sharp, very moreish with a dash of saline, lovely and with such a bright future.   

Then as we sat down we had a pair of whites. Meursault 1er Cru Genevieres 2009 from A.Gambal and Chateau de Fonsalette Blanc 1997 from Rayas. The Meursult was exactly what you want of Meursault for drinking now, rich, opulent but with good warm minerality, really good length and a lovely rounded but not flabby texture, a very slight whiff or reduction essentially just a very good wine. The Fonsalette was a lovely contrast, more complex and academic for sure but not to such a degree that it was anything but delicious to drink. A little lanolin and chestnut, dry toffee and a burning butter as well a a long length and no lack of acidity, really rather splendid especially with the food. The wonderful contrast of the three whites already had me thinking this was a good tasting day.

Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2002 from d’Angerville was up next as we sort of served the reds in a staggered, one wine at a time, order which worked well. I know Clos des Ducs pretty well, in the main thanks to this exception tasting. The 2002 was showing very well, saline and tight with focussed red fruit and elegant persistence, serious with the drinking window just opening…really lovely, coiled tight. We now shifted both to the Cote de Nuits for the next 3 reds…some big names.

Clos St Denis Grand Cru 2001 from Ponsot was some how less precise, soupier possibly than the d'Angerville but that worked as a nice contrast. The less defined, slightly degraded nose gave way to a good, more generous palate and a certain lush decadence.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cr Clos St Jacques 2001 from Rousseau had a nose of sweet fruited density with a dash of bovril just adding a savoury side which just shows this wine to be moving into the second phase of a long life. It was very precise, with fruits that are hard to describe, red fruit on a core of something darker possibly, long and just so dam drinkable. Yet another bottle of Rousseau that just makes you wonder how they do what they do.

Romanee Saint Vivant Grand Cru 2001 from DRC followed, it can be dangerous with DRC and Rousseau for a winner to appear and then the sum of the parts is less than the individual loveliness should make it. On this occasion both were singing. This RSV was superb, focussed and red with primary fruits but in no way one dimensional the nose is so packed with life, an exceptional bottle in every way. I think this will age with grace and balance rather than going through the phases that the Rousseau before it, I would be equally excited to own both. The RSV for its guile and finesse with a core underneath (think Philippe Sella), the Rousseau for its grit and savoury decadence whilst still being charming (Richie McCaw).

And so to the Rhone next. Hermitage 1991 from Chave was an absolute masterclass in how this producer belongs at the top of any table of wine estates. Rich yet weightless, a little armpit and grunt with a sweet fruited then saline palate the sombinationof elegance and almost light texture with much flavour was staggering. This was followed by Barbaresco Rabaja 2000 from Giacosa, 2000 being warm it was a better vintage in Barbaresco than Barolo due to the cooling effect of the river. It had a degraded, flattering nose of sweet bruised nebbiolo fruit that made it easy to enjoy and decadent. Just a lovely wine for right now. 

Then after the diversion from Burgundy to Rhone and Piedmont we were back with a cracking pair of 1999's both of which had been decanted:

Richebourg Grand Cru 1999 from Anne Gros was very good, a rich fruited nose of mulled, almost Christmas, fruits, this had a darker more powerful side to it, a wine that shows massive promise. There is a balance about it that makes it appreciably enjoyable now, brooding is too crude a word but probably as close as I can get.

Musigny VV Grand Cru 1999 from de Vogue is a wine I know rather well and is also a wine that, when I last had it, was still firmly in a sulking phase. This was all about coiled minerality, saline, iron and a wonderful rich yet not heavy texture. I, sadly, had to taste rather than drink these last two (its not often work has to get in the way but sometimes), I can well imagine they both came out more and more in glass and strutted their stuff. From a tasting perspective they were just how I wanted them to be...

A splendid luncheon with a really good crowd of wine lovers, lots of good chats…at one point I overheard a good, if not directly relevant to this, quote about Martinis (or Negronis in my case)…"One martini is all right. Two are too many, and three are not enough." from James Thurber…too true.

Happy Birthday Irish Pete...

Croquettes of Mangalitza Pork with Smoked Yolk, Glazed Salsify and Black Pudding

Thinly Sliced Smoked Eel with Grilled Mackerel, Golden Beetroots and Sweet Mustard

Fillet of Cornish Brill, Delica Pumpkin, Chestnuts, Trompettes, Turnip Tops and Red Wine

"Foxes behind ears" - Piedmont 2015 - an Epic

Monforte d'Alba

As I hope I manage to portray, this was a fabulous trip. It was the encore to a similar excursion to  Burgundy last May. The aim was simply to introduce this band of vinous brothers - "Fiscali", "Very dusty bottles", '"Geronimo", "Raw" and  "Vestier" - to the joys of Piedmont and Piedmont wines. There had been a warm up dinner at Zucca which set the scene rather well. Events began on the Wednesday night "Chez Fiscali" with a nod to last year and a glimpse at May 2016's potential trip to the Rhone.

Dinner at "CG"

Bandol Rose 2013, Tempier

Ermitage “L’Ermite” 2001, Chapoutier

Condrieu De Poncins 2010, Francois Villard

Morey St Denis Clos Sorbe 2009, Francois Feuillet

Yquem 1999.

There are no notes on the wines here as I was, sadly, yet to join the party, a mistake I had made the previous year as well. The following morning at the airport we were complete - the full half dozen.

Air Fiscali

A couple of halves of Blanc de Blancs NV, Ruinart got us up and running on the flight, a sharpener to get the palate ready for what would be an onslaught on arrival. A quick transfer courtesy of Stefano, our driver for the next few days saw us arrive hungrily at:

Brezza Ristorante, in the town of Barolo itself. The set up here is engaging, un-fussy and authentic. They have a totally unpretentious restaurant serving really good local dishes. A hotel with good rooms (so I am told, ask for rooms on the second or third floor to get the view). Brezza is a far more serious producer than the restaurant and hotel set up would suggest. By this I mean normally if someone does all three there is a weak link. 

This lasted seconds!

The wines are all made by Enzo Brezza and his team, they are all traditionally made, no new oak. We just asked to be fed well and to get a good look at the range of the estates wines. I have bought several of the Barolos myself so a chance to look at pretty much the whole spread was really welcome.

Enzo!

Langhe Chardonnay 2013, Brezza - clean flavours, very pure and relatively light, no wood so minerals and lime in the main, nice.

Langhe Nebbiolo 2013, Brezza - This was not far from a rosé (they do make a rosé from 5% of their Barolo Cru holdings), very floral and linear, nice if simple.

Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2011, Brezza - A step up here, very good, nice fruit but not flabby, nice stoney freshness.

Barolo Sarmassa 2011, Brezza - This was very good, quite bold but nicely pure, tannins in good balance.

Amanda @ Brezza

Barolo Sarmassa 2007, Brezza - Following the 2011 with 2007, another quite similar vintage, was a good idea, this 2007 was more degraded and evolved as you would expect, easy to enjoy, as with a lot of the warmer vintages ('03,'07,'09,'11) it is best served cooler.   

Barolo 1965, Brezza - This was ordered in a lovely state of excitement. The chaps wanted to try something older, a nice "dusty bottle". We ordered the 1958 but Enzo himself felt the 1965 was a better bet, good level etc. The cork was a little stubborn but the wine was good and got better over the following 10-15 minutes, tightening up and getting younger. The signature, roses and tar.

Not bad for a first lunch...

Following this lunch and only running a few minutes behind for our next tasting we were really pleased to take up Enzo and Amanda's offer of a tour of the winery and cellars. It had been a great first taster of the region for the team. As we got into the wagon and asked Stefano to get us to Giulia Negri I had a feeling the trip might work out well.

Giulia Negri
Giulia has just finished her studies and university. She works from her families estate in the Serradenari Cru in Barolo, it is a great place to get a view over the whole region. Giulia is one of a younger generation of winemakers in the region who have traveled and who are fascinated by wines of other regions as well, especially Burgundy. We were treated to a cracking visit, a good tour of the winery, the cellar and then a great tasting sat out under the shade of a large tree. Giulia also seems to have a, very welcome, interest in the English sense of humour…with the team having lunched well this was a welcome discovery.

The wines:
Giulia has a fascination with Pinot Noir from her love of burgundy and she grows a little here, under the Italian name Pinot Nero, young vines.

Pinot Nero 2011 is a wine to drink now, there is a little menthol and a slightly split personality. The 2012 is a very clear step up, more lively, more precise and the 2013 has a bit more grip and tastes like it should, a translation between Pinot and Barolo. This is a project that is going to be exciting to track and now that Giulia is at the estate full time it will go from strength to strength.

The Barbera d’Alba 2013 is a juicy wine with more red fruit than black and a nice freshness. We were then into the Barolo's with the team relaxing in the breeze and many of the next batch of wines served blind. Barolo La Tartufaia 2010 is a serious wine with lovely richness, good extraction, a hint of leather and iron, this is for keeping. We then had two different versions of the Barolo 2011 from Giulia…one with the normal amount of Brunate in it and one less. The team were split on their preference, I found the version with Brunate to be bigger and a little more lush. There was on final wine - Renoir 2009 - thrown in as a curve ball, this is a blend of 60% Nebbiolo, 20% Barbera and 20% Pinto Nero. It is a wine her parents made (they still make wines under their own label from the same estate). It does very much taste of the region and we all liked it, as I had done a month earlier then I visited. There is fruit but also a degraded leathery element…
It had been a splendid afternoon - so many thanks to Giulia, the even better news was that she agreed to meet us for dinner on Saturday at Trattoria della Posta, more of which later...

It was time to drop our bags and check in at Hotel Casa Pavesi which is in the north of the Barolo region, in a commune called Grinzane Cavour. During the stay we were very well looked after by the team there. It is a nice location for accessing both Barolo and Barbaresco.

Before departing for dinner we gathered for a bottle of Delamotte 2007 Blanc de Blancs on the terrace, it is just starting to hit it's stride…

Trattoria La Coccinella
This was a little bit of a drive from the Hotel, 25 mins, but well worth it, once we got into the wines we were in the zone…we got a white from the region, Rolando Langhe Bianco 2013 from Bricco Maiolica, to accompany a white Burgundy that we had taken, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles 2012 from Francois Carillon.

Both these wines were enjoyable but the Chassagne's complexity won through, it's drinking well already though 18 months or so will do it well.

We then decided to follow the route we took with almost all ordering of food on the trip and said "please give us a mix of local starters, then two pastas and then we'll see how we are doing"…this worked well with both the restaurants, we were six people after all, and with us because we could concentrate on the wine! We got well tucked in here and ebbed and flowed between full maturity and youth.

Two of the great names...

Barbaresco 1971, Produttori del Barbaresco, kicked us off, the world's greatest co-op and a great vintage. I loved the fact that this was a medium weighted example of what classic aged Nebbiolo is - soy and frazzles, iron, some richness and a savoury acidity. From here I decided that we needed to get a few of the great names into the mix. Names we weren't seeing, may be next time! So Barolo 2009 from Bartolo Mascarello and Barolo Tre Tine 2010 from Guiseppe Rinaldi it was. The Bartolo had a juiciness and completeness, the Tre Tini was instantly a more masculine wine, more grip, a lovely purists structure, superb with the pasta. Then before we went back to the 70's it was time for Barolo Santo Stefano 2008 by Guiseppe Mascarello. I am a big fan of the 2008's a sort of feminine 2006 in so much as both are so very classical. This had a gorgeous, alluring and focused nose, a little more muted on the plate but splendid, what a trio of young wines.

A lovely line up for dinner...only day 1

Then "Dusty" and "Vestier" got hold of the list again and we were back in the decade of most of our births with the Barbaresco Rabaja 1974, Produttori del Barbaresco. Along with 1971 and 1978 the most lauded of that decades vintages (quick note if you ever see the Barbaresco 1970 from Produttori, buy, buy, buy). This 1974 was bricky and gritty with lovely acidity, exactly what is should be. We then had the Barolo Vigna Rocche 1989 from a producer I'd not heard of Sordo Giovanni. My notes by this time are thin on the ground but this did show well if not excitingly. The lists we saw generally had a lack of 1980's and 1990's. I am not totally sure why, may be those wines have been sold recently or is it to do with the modernist vs traditionalist saga that went on around the time. Either way we were having a ball and being looked after very well, certainly classed as the "crazy English". I later discovered our "little" line -up made it onto Facebook rather promptly under the title "we had the English in".

Quite some wine...

Just one last bottle to make the winding road home easier. What I hadn't realised was that it was only 4.5% alcohol. But when that wine is Tokaji Esszencia 1993 from Chateau Pajzos you don't care, believe me. Had I heard of it before? Nope, I should have though. When I tell you my note is long and that is at the end of a long day of lots of bottles you get the idea. My note sounds like one of those awfully pretentious monologues but here it is: "Thinly, very thinly cut apples on the nose, then with the palate is like the most sublime but substantial apple puree served cold. Long, Long, Long, I would struggle to say this was from grapes, extra-ordinary as it is extraordinary". And with that and a good group pic we were off. I'll be going back for sure.

On the drive back to the hotel there were mutterings of a running party organising themselves for the morning…those of us less that way inclined were thinking "yeah right"...

We woke to have breakfast on the terrace to find two of the team made it out for that run…good work. This daily tactic and the fact that the food is more easily digested than last years Foie Gras and reduction sauces was already making sense…

View from the breakfast table...

Stefano was ready at the wagon and the sun was out again, we were supposed to get rained on almost every one of the four days but thankfully nothing materialised.

So we headed to Bruno Giacosa where we were greeted by Francesco who gave us a tour of the facilities and a talk through the winemaking philosophy. We then sat down for a tasting with a group of Swedish journalists. Francesco gave us a overview of the history of Giacosa - Estate and Negociant. The total production is in the region of 300,000 bottles a year.

We kicked off the tasting with:

Spumante 2007 this is 100% Pinot Noir, Bruno Giacosa is no fan of Chardonnay, and has been made since 1983, it sells especially well domestically and in Germany. The nose is of dry nutty savoury fruit, the palate is then very mineral and again nutty. This was from a March 2014 disgorgement.  

Roero Arneis 2014 was up next, this comes from 21 or 22 growers and is amazingly responsible for 100,000 of the 300,000 bottles produced here. It is a wine I have had before but not in this vintage. The nose is pears and clean fruits, the palate has a little sweetness and is in balance with the nose, nice wine.

Barbera d’Alba Falletto 2012 has a production of about 7000 bottles and ferments for about 15 days at 26/27 degrees. There is a lovely dark cherry vivacity to this wine, not light but not weighty, I really liked this.

Now it was time to shift up a notch to the noble grape, Raw found this simply to exciting and managed somehow to break his tasting glass into a million pieces, a feat I am unlikely ever to witness again.

Nebbiolo d’Alba 2013 - had a lovely animal edge, then strawberry fruit, roses and some spice. I can imagine if aged this would take on a bit of truffle and gentle tobacco. I had a case of the 2008 (long since drunk) that did exactly that. They have made this since the 1970's and make around 14,000 bottles.

Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2011 is the last vintage of this wine that has been made since 1964. The fruit is again strawberry but wild rather than normal (sorry chaps but this stays in!), the acidity is superb, the wine is open and approachable now but I can well imagine it may go into it's shell. Very good indeed.

It was before the next wine that our Swedish journalist friends introduced us to the "a fox behind the ear" phrase, which I am sure you'll agree loses quite a lot in translation. It is suppose to suggest that some one has a lot of energetic drive...

Barbaresco Asili 2012 was a treat, I love this site, there is a darker fruit and always a moderate salty tang, this was a good showing from what is reputed to have been a tricky vintage.

Barolo Falletto 2011 was the final wine and as with the Santo Stefano 2011 it was vibrant and open and easy to appreciate. Cool strawberry conserve (not "Jam" Geronimo) that is so persistent. At the moment this is engaging pure and extrovert, so much complexity to come.

A really great start to the day and many thanks to Francesco for his time and knowledge. From Barbaresco we galloped of to Castiglione Falletto to meet up with Luca Roagna.

Luca breaks down the soil.

It was a real privilege to get a visit here as Luca, who I have known a while, really doesn't "do" visits as there is so much to be done at the estate. Roagna is a name most famous for wonderful holdings in Barbaresco, and some of the very best they are too. But Luca also has a very fine holding in Pira in Barolo as well. The wines for each can't be made at one place as each of Barolo and Barbaresco must both be vinified in their respective regions. The one exception is a historical one, Giacosa where we had just been.
To say that Luca has energy is a crazy understatement, he is a ball of energy. He is also deeply routed in the history and family nature of this great estate. At the same time he is a wine lover with a fascination for all the great wines. You will see all the great names around the cellars. Encouragingly most of the bottles appear to be empty! 

Looking down over Pira.

There is very long ageing of the wines at Roagna before they are released. They are not people to be rushed. We started our visit in the vineyards and this was no token "there you are a few vines to see", Luca had us going round the whole site, feeling and smelling soils and feeling the humidity of the vineyard floor (with the back of your hand not the front!). We saw the incredible vegetation that is allowed to grow up amongst the vines, everything is done here to be at one with the cycles of nature. The site is a steep one as we all realised when we we tried to clamber back up to the winery.

And what a winery it is! Amazing facilities, there is a sense of the Bond Villain about it but not in a showy way, everything has a place and reason for being there. Luca was picking up a few bottles as he went which was encouraging in the extreme. We then found ourselves popping out in Luca's own kitchen.

The tasting that followed was a joy. Zalto Nebbiolo glasses and every last detail covered. The wines were all from the last release, it sounds like the next release will be November.

Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti 2009 - From the vineyard we had trekked around, the old vine selection as well. A focused and persistent nose, pine resin and some iron as well as fruit that I can't really describe. A big structure but a balanced one. Superb.

Barbaresco Asili Vecchie Viti 2009 - Luca was slightly disappointed with this bottle and on reflection it was a little flatter than the others, still good though.

Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti 2009 - They only have 0.24 hectares here that they got in 1929. There is an airiness about this, cool, wet rocks but also pure fruit, it manages to be charming but very serious at the same time!

Barbaresco Paje Vecchie Viti 2009 - Roagna are most famous for there holdings in Paje from which this and the next wine both come. This was a delight, a slight notes of iodine then stones and that trade mark purity. Fabulous.

Barbaresco Crichet Paje 2005 - the signature wine of the estate but made in such tiny quantities and certainly not every year. The family bough in Paje in 1953. This, when made, is from one dedicated plot. Sublime elegance, my note is useless as it pretty much just says "wow" - how a wine has this grace at the same time as a massive yet totally balanced structure I really don't know.

What a tasting!

Ever thoughtful Luca wanted us to finish with a white wine so we would leave with a clean palate, I was totally happy to be left with the finish of the Crichet Paje on my senses.

The Solea 2012 which Luca served was an absolute gem, with normal modesty Luca said he doesn't really make white wine but this would be ok, it was delicious. The wine is a blend of Nebbiolo and Chardonnay, only 1332 bottles were produced. There is a roundness and opulence to the wine but it is not without acidity, it's pretty unique I felt…we were sad to leave Roagna but Lunch was needed. Thank you Luca!  

I was excited about lunch as it was going to be at a place I had been recommended by several friends in the trade, Vinoteca Centro Storico in Serralunga d'Alba. Alessio is quite a character and the wine list is terrific as well as there being awesome hams to feast on. We had an outside table and put ourselves in Allesio's hands for a mix of starters and then some Pasta. We were not to be disappointed! With a big tasting at 3pm we went relatively easy on the wines and tried three producers we had not yet sampled on the trip.

Barbaresco 2005 from Gaja, this had a lovely open nose on first tasting and had purity as well as a slightly earthy aspect. As the wine had time in glass it got tighter and drier…I think just a case of the wrong time to be drinking this.

Barolo Lazzarito 2007 from Vietti was almost the opposite, a little closed initially with oak showing but it sweetened up and became less oak dominated with time - it was quite juicy and opulent by the end but did not show any hotness from the vintage, nice. 

Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2005 from Cavallotto was the final wine of lunch and this was a pre-cursor to the following mornings visit to the estate. One of Cavallotto's two Riservas. The wine was lovely, bright and elegant with a lovely structure. With the 3pm tasting being one we were not going to be late for we made prompt tracks from Centro Storico - I'll be going back.

So then it was time for my favourite estate any where in the world - Cantina Giacomo Conterno and having only been a month earlier made me no less excited. Roberto and his assistant Stephanie greeted us and gave the team the tour of the newly expanded winery as well as the brand new, wasn't there the month before, bottling line. I can't stress the level of "attention to detail" here but somehow it is done without there being any less character or emotion.

Barbera masterclass...

Then it was time to taste - and a very generous tasting too. The two 2013 Barberas -  "Francia" and "Cerretta" started us off with the textbook differences coming through, minerality and salinity with cool black fruit for the Francia and the more lush and red/black sweeter fruit of the Cerretta. When one of the team asked about the ageing of these wines Roberto asked if we would like to taste the "Francia" Barbera 2005 or the 2001. I think we settled on 2005 only for Roberto to bring both. "Why choose when you can have both" he kindly commented. This was fascinating. I have some 2008's at home and they are gorgeous but I think this is the oldest I have had Francia Barbera. The 2005 had some soy, it was quite decadent, a little chocolate, slightly sweaty, sweet and degrading good. The 2001 was in the next stage of development, a more faded colour, ferrous, saline, forest floor and some raisins and soy, nice and good to drink but without the freshness of the 2005.

Roberto explains...

From that mini Barbera master class it was Barolo time.  
Barolo "Francia" 2011 is to be bottled in June and the "would have been Monfortino" barrel has now been blended into the wine. This is staggeringly lovely, the purity of a Volnay with the underlying structure you expect, simply lovely. Barolo "Cerretta" 2011 is also to be bottled in June. Has a similar clarity of flavour, more fruit more opulence, this is extrovert and where the Barolo classicist may "prefer" Francia (and I do by a tiny margin) this is just so juicy and good. Barolo Monfortino 2008 has been bottled, last June, but it is being released this year. I find this wine almost indescribable. There is a refined sweetness but also leather and some sweet tobacco but at the same time and, almost in contradiction, there is something so refined and feminine, just marvelous. The last wine - Barolo Monfortino 2010 - has only two problems. Firstly, the expectation is insane because as anyone who has tasted it will tell you this is the soul of what Barolo should be. As a result the expectation of experience will always be insanely, possibly unfairly, high. Secondly, when on earth do you drink it? My temptation is to say every 5 years from 12 years of age. It has everything and my words certainly can not do it justice - I am pathetically biased but I challenge anyone to disagree.

And well over two hours after arriving we headed to the "van" a group of very happy wine lovers! Bravo Roberto!

Having a had a little rest it was aperitivo time back at Hotel Casa Pavesi for this we had a magnum of Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2011 from Prum. Such a cool format of the great estate, it got the taste buds fired up for dinner.

Dinner was at Massimo Camina in La Morra. We may  have been spoiled by the standard and atmosphere of the restaurants so far but this was a slight miss-fire. Nothing major but the food was a little more pretentious after all the brilliant simplicity we had been enjoying. The wine service was also a little clumsy, too much sediment and just a slight lack of attention to detail. The food was fiddlier but also very good. Wine wise we did some more exploring.

A few more producers...

The opening salvo was Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres 2005 from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey which is fully mature now.

A nice light dish!

For the Barolos we opened with Barolo Le Brunate 2005 from Francesco Rinaldi, a producer I like and whose wines I buy. This was not a good bottle, muddied and lacking clarity, a real shame as this is not  true showing. We moved on to Barolo Ca’Mia 2005 from Brovia which was, for me, the wine of the night and in most of the team's top three. It had a good focus and balance, a nice sweetness. Barolo Cannubi Boschis 2004 from Sandrone had it's trademark richness and showed well from this cracking vintage. It was well received. Barolo Carobric 1997 from Scavino was a little too much, by which I mean a modern style from a warm vintage can result in a little bit too much texture at the expense of clean fruit. Barolo Riserva 1988 Vigna liste, Borgogno was good, fine purity and red fruit as well as a sweet leather and tea development I liked this.

It had been a fun meal with Geronimo getting to wear a bib! We decide that rather than buy more from the list we would make tracks back to the Hotel for a look at a couple of bottles from Italy's other best known region - Tuscany!

The Tuscan impostors...

Brunello di Montalcino “Greppo” 2004 from Biondi-Santi and Guado al Tasso 2007, Antinori were the two bottles in question. We settled into the comfortable and relaxing drawing room and got chatting, all sorts of topics as ever. The wines were both good, very good. The Biondi Santi had a lovely acidic balance that you only really get in Italy, complex and moreish. As you would expect the Guado was more richly textured, more opulent and more international but not in a bad way. With one of our party planning to make a departure in the mid afternoon the following day there was already pressure being applied to try and get him to give us his company for another 18 hours. A couple of Limoncellos rounded of a lovely evening. It was a good idea to get rest as, if last year was anything to go on, the Saturday of this trip tends to be rather a full on day!

The running brigade was at it's biggest on the Saturday with three of them making it. A good breakfast was had and with a nice, later, start the team seemed primed.

There are many ways in which the Saturday encapsulated the wondrousness of the region and wine in general. The wines are sublime, the people open, generous and engaging and the food just so splendid.

Cavallotto is where we were headed, Tenuta Vitivinicola Bricco Boschis in Castiglione to be more specific. I had never been before and it was purely via an introduction that we got the visit. So I wasn't expecting a full three hours with Guiseppe Cavallotto including a tour of winery, vineyard and a tasting. The approach here is very traditional and the wines are all made from the vineyards around the Tenuta. Ageing is in large older botti. The sense you get is of a very contented estate that does what they want to do without fussiness or any arrogance. The cellars were immaculate, the vineyards looked so well tended (but not over tended). The tasting room is relaxed. We were all impressed.

View from the Tenuta...

Langhe Chardonnay 2013 was rounded but pure, a slightly resinous note, from vines planted between 1973 and 1975. The wine sells almost exclusively on the domestic market. The palate has a little dryness but this is a nice if simple wine.

A stunning 1999...

Dolcetto d’Alba 2013 was next and I was glad, otherwise we would not have had a Dolcetto at all. This had cherry fruit, a drier texture than Barbera and a herbal note, a good fresh, unpretentious wine. The Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2011 was lovely, with cool black fruits, richer texture than the Dolcetto but no more than medium body. Lush and balanced. And so to Nebbiolo with the Langhe Nebbiolo 2012 which was for me the most serious Langhe Nebbiolo of the trip, a mini Barolo, classy. Interestingly there will be no Barolo made in 2014 so a fair bit of Langhe Nebbiolo - one to watch out for. Barolo Bricco Boschis 2010 was delightful, both serious but appreciable too, this is the main Barolo from the estate - there are two Riservas made on occasion. There was real poise to the wine. Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis 2008 Vigna San Giuseppe was a rare treat, very fine, saline, seriousness and power, good grip, a young but balanced wine. I would love to track how this evolves. We thought the tasting was done but no, one more wine - Barolo Bricco Boschis 1999 - this was a real highlight and this classical, slightly reticent, vintage strikes me as just the sort to suit this estate. It was stunningly good, a little soy, a little leather but sweet fruit.

We were a little behind for Lunch now but were having so much fun that there was no rush. Stefano put in a call to hold our table and a couple of the team decide it was purchase time. Several large bottles made their way into the wagon. A really memorable visit, such generosity!!

Lunch was at La Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso. I went there the month before and immediately earmarked it as the location for the Saturday luncheon of this trip. A stunning view, a relaxed atmosphere with serious food and a great wine list. We had some Champagne - Comtes de Champagne 1999 from Tattinger in the 65,000 bottle cellar before lunch. This is an incredible set up. Comtes 1999 was all lemon torte and youth, focused, lovely.
At the table we bedded-in for the afternoon with a decision to go for the tasting menu, minus the brains. We are Dreams 2013 from Jermann was the choice for white and it set the scene nicely with good fruit and a lowish acidity, food was now needed, frogs legs specifically. We had very kindly been given two bottles of 2008 by Cavallotto - Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe and Barolo Riserva Vignolo and it was lovely to drink the two side by side. The San Giuseppe is a little bolder but both drank well. From here as the dishes flowed several wines were ordered, some decanted and saved for a little later and other decanted and poured for immediate enjoyment. Barolo Cerequio 2000 from Voerzio was the next to hit the glass. This was lovely, creamy, rich, opulent and full but not heavy. As with La Tache 2007 at lunch last year there has always been the temptation to indulge in a few great bottles at this last Lunch and so it proved here. Barolo Monfortino 2000 alongside Sassicaia 1998. It certainly meant that the one of our number who sadly had to depart to Milan airport was leaving on a high. The Monfortino was sublime, so complete, so long, young yes but in no way a waste at all. That weightless density some how making the wine both persistent and complex but at the same time elegant. The Sassicaia was a lovely foil, darker fruit, bell-pepper and herbs, again not heavy but rich, just lovely. It's great when two different wines of such repute don't fight each other for victory, just look to show off to each other.

Pergole Torte 1999 from Montevertine was the next choice and a savvy one. It went well with the goat we were tucking into, the acidity and earthiness cutting through the satisfying fattiness of the goat. Pergole Torte somehow manages to be both dry and sweet, degraded but fruited, it needs to be given time to show well. I dashed to the wagon to get the next bottle - Rayne Vigneau 2001 - and I think it was this stage that Stefano realised he may well not be getting an afternoon break. The 2001 was lovely, young enough for lift but aged enough for figs and decadence to peek through. It's an estate a few savvy people follow. I recently asked one very prominent Bordelais producer for their sweet wine to buy outside of Yqeum and Rayne-Vigneau was their answer.

By this time, five-ish, the restaurant was emptying and we decided to move to the terrace for a coffee and one last bottle - Pin 2001 from Spinetta which was good, better that I expected. It is a blend of two thirds Nebbiolo and one third Barbera, it is not trying to be serious but has a nice sweetness allied to a bit of grip and degraded fruit. By this time we were in the midst of a weird co-incidence. Just as we had at this lunch the previous year we bumped into a couple sat at a near buy table to whom a few of our team had tenuous links. It was a sort of two degrees of separation rather than the normal six. I won't repeat what is was that Geronimo said that got the conversation going.

With 6pm now well behind us and an apertivo on the itinerary at Casa Della Saracca before dinner we finally bid our good byes and made tracks. Casa della Saracca in Monforte is something of a local institution. Part bar, part restaurant, part hotel it's a wonderful rabbit warren of a place.

We had a livening bottle of the biscuity Brut Tradition Grand Cru from Egly-Ouriet, although a couple for the team feared the acidity and went to G&T instead, C&B Sloe Gin even got a whirl. There are always a few different people milling around Saracca and Raw be-friended a male reporter from Sweden who was in the region.
Fiscali tried to stitch me up as a tour guide for some Norweigans and I think we were all starting to think the flight back the following morning was going to be a quiet one!

Trattoria della Posta was to be our dinner spot, a lovely authentic restaurant that does the basics so very well. I had loved it when once before, some years earlier. Geronimo was feeling the effect of his early morning run and impromptu DJ'ing session in Saracca and decided he would have the past and then ask for "Home Stefano". He made it up for a run on the final morning which was no mean feat. 

The rest of us were delighted to have been joined by Guilia for dinner so we got ordering - food and wine. A Gaia & Rey 2013 from Gaja was a good start, it is a wine I have often enjoyed, it is more a savoury scenario than a wine of fruit but it works. Dusty then decided we needed Sperss 1996, Gaja from bottle and to have a look at a comparison of bottle and magnum by ordering Barolo Monfortino 2000 from magnum. It was a great decision. The Sperss came out more and more in the glass, a serious wine with years ahead. The Monfortino was as you'd expect a little younger and more dense, than the bottle at Lunch, it was wonderful to have it in a glass for that bit longer and to drink it in more volume. The food was a delight and we all have a great time telling the earlier "trailer plane" story (ask me and I'll explain). Some grappa appeared from the next door table, it had rather lovely packaging. Fortunately we only sampled a very little bit. Whether the next bit was sensible or not is another matter but, what the hell, our trip was nearly over so back to Saracca for one last bottle and what better to choose than a bottle from one of the producers we had seen - Barolo Le Coste 2007 from Roagna. I loved it, 2007 may not be a classic vintage but when handled with care it can be lovely, this was…Stefano made sure we all got back in one piece…quite a day!

The following morning there were a few groans of over-indulgence but actually everyone was in good fettle. We breakfasted and then made tracks having said good bye, some with more vigour than others, to our hosts and that was the trip all but done...

A few big bottles...

So, what did we learn?
Piedmont is so beautiful.
Food - Traditional starters and pasta and then go from there.
The producers give you real time and a full insight.
In both wine and restaurants go traditional rather than modern.
Make sure you get into the vineyards.
Restaurants are open to you bringing bottles.
Running gear is a good idea (if you like that sort of thing).

Hotel Pavesi 

A few thanks you's:
The producers we saw were all wonderful!
Specifically Roberto and Stephanie for the introduction to Stefano.
For restaurants, ordering advice, bookings and general help: Rebecca Nightingale, Eric Sabourin, Valentina Zavagli, Sam Harris, Megan Rogers.

But above all else to the team for having me along. I love Piedmont more every time I go and I learnt a massive amount on the trip…I can't wait to go back…right then…Rhone 2016 is it?!?!