Produttori del Barbaresco 2011's...a great tasting

I love these wines and buy them regularly. I also have a pretty good range of experience with them as the posts below show:

Vertical of Pora Cru
1971 Barbresco gets a mention here
A Cru comparison 2005 Asili & Montefico
Barbaresco 1970

This tasting was overseen, in charismatic form, by the commercial director of Produttori del Barbaresco, Aldo Vacca. Recently described by Ian D'Agata as a 'walking encyclopedia on Nebbiolo and Barbaresco', Aldo guided us through the 2011 Cru release.

There are two elements to the Riserva release which make it particularly intriguing. To start with the Crus are not released every year. When quality is not deemed high enough, only the Langhe Nebbiolo and 'regular' Barbaresco are produced, subsequently, this regular Barbaresco is of an even more outstanding in quality, as it includes the top fruit which normally would have gone into making the Crus. Secondly, it's an 'all or nothing' situation, either all the nine Crus are produced, or none. In any given year, if the high quality is not consistent throughout all nine single vineyards, then none will be made. It is this unwavering, quality-focused, approach which means that the Produttori del Barbaresco Riservas rank amongst the best wines in Italy.

As a bit of extra info: The Produttori del Barbaresco co-operative now covers 110 hectares which is spread between 52 members. All members have to commit 100% to the Produttori and can not make wines that compete or sell grapes elsewhere. The nines Crus circle round the Barbaresco village starting from Ovello, Montefico and Montestefano on the North-eastern side, looping down to the South-eastern and southern areas with Muncagota, Pajè, Asili and Pora. Finally, Rabajà and Rio Sordo lie in the next band of vineyards, a little further south. The Produttori has been making the single vineyard wines since 1967 and is the largest producer of Barbaresco.

My notes in the order tasted. All scored out of 20...

Langhe Nebbiolo 2014 - "Baby Barbaresco" as it is often referred to. It spends 5 months in big barrels This wine has been made since 1975 (ironically "my" vintage), the appellation only came into existence in the 1970's. In 2014 Barbaresco was reportedly the best of the Piedmont areas, it was a wet spring and early summer before the late summer and September where dry and gave good ripening conditions. Full but transparent colour, cool cherry fruit, strawberry also, more sour cherry on the palate with a nice bit of grip. There is a creamy element as well as a little gentle spice - white pepper. Great value - 17

Barbaresco 2012 - The were no Crus made in 2012 so all the "juice" is in the straight Barbaresco which was bottled in March 2015. The weather in the vintage was arguably a little too warm and never really cooled down so the differentiation between sites did not quite warrant the Crus being released. This is lovely with a darker richer intensity. More black fruit than red, good weight, a mulled fruit quality. Juicy. 17.5-18

The 2011 vintage was a ripe, rich and intense vintage, full-bodied, as ripe as it gets without over ripeness, chilly nights and hot days that saw lovely differentiation of sites and splendid complexity. A case (12bts) of the Langhe Nebbiolo 2011 that I had at home didn't even last a month - delicious!

Barbaresco Riserva Pajè 2011 - Nice nose, a little coffee, sweet with good depth, some spice. The fruit has purity and might just be strawberry more than anything but it is hard to define one fruit type. Good acidity - a good start. 17

Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota 2011 - More lifted with redder fruit than Paje. Lovely finish to this. Overall this shows that rare trait of richness and coolness. 18

Barbaresco Riserva Pora 2011 - Aldo commented here that Pora tended to be more approachable, more herbal than many Crus as it is closer to the river. I found this to have a sage and herbal nose as well as good lush fruit. Lovely almost menthol fruit freshness, some bold tannins but not too much, ripe. 17.5-18

Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo 2011 - Vibrant red cherry fruit and also a little spice, lovely cool fruited palate, not aggressive. This is not overly complex but is nicely complete. 17-17.5

Barbaresco Riserva Asili 2011 - Darker but at the same time more muted and more serious, more saline also (I do love salinity). The palate is then lovely with big ripe tannins, mouth coating but not drying, long, bold and serious. The pick possibly. 18.5

Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà 2011 - A little muted but good mid-red fruit with some black elements. Not heavy in tannin but developed on the palate, not quite so fresh. This is a little more bruised or degraded and a little less precise, a little tough, time needed? 16.5

Barbaresco Riserva Ovello 2011 - Placed at the northern tip of Barbaresco and with a multiple exposure but common soil type. Lighter and a little brighter, fresher, I really liked this. Has a poised red fruit and a good, if less obtrusive structure. Good, more feminine, stands apart stylistically. 18-18.25

Barbaresco Riserva Montefico 2011 - With a full south exposure. Lifted menthol freshness and then this combines with very bright red fruits. Bold rich tannins follow on the palate, cracking nose, the tannin may need to resolve into the wine, when it does this could be rather special. 17.75-18.25

Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano 2011 - A little muted and harder to define, less red fruits, bold yet somehow more insular, savoury and a little saline, this may just be a more brooding example. Despite the mixed note I gave it a rather definite 18

A very fine tasting indeed...

Some recommended reading...

A colleague at work the other day said…

"One of the problems with working in wine is that nobody gives you wine books"

This struck me as very true. Over the last few months I have been buying/seeking out quite a few publications as there has been some exciting stuff going on. The fact that so much wine commentary has moved on-line seems to have meant that anyone publishing anything in "hardcopy" has really needed to hit the spot. For me the Pomerol book from Neal Martin was the first of these "new approach" books where personality and opinion rather than scores and facts seem to be the key. Neal's book has been out a while so I've not included it in the below but thoroughly recommend it. One of the reasons that I know the three things below fit the bill as well are that I spend time dragging them around with me or at least having to give serious thought to whether they should be on my desk or at home...

Noble Rot (Website)
The picture is of edition 7 but essentially everything they have produced has been great. There are several reasons:
Tone: It is not afraid to talk about the very best estates in the world but does so without big star-struck or patronising to the reader, both of which are traps that others fall into. It is concise but not flippant. Wine is talked about as a part of life rather than an academic study.
Writters: Some of the best there are at not getting dragged down with (unnecessary) detail. Having many of theme keeps it fresh.
Format: I love the size, big enough for good illustrations but small enough to carry around, another bonus is that it is available on iPad etc.
Subjects: There is a main theme to each edition to give it focus which is good. The topics have not all been obvious either. Yes they have done "Burgundy" but they also did "Jura".
Issues: My only issue it that they have not done Piedmont yet but it is on the cards
Keep up the good work!

Barolo and Barbaresco - Kerin O'Keefe
Ok so very few people will be surprised that the next two books are Piedmont related. 
This book is superb whether your level of knowledge is small, large or growing. The first section gives a great overview of the region then the next few chapters go through sub-region by sub-region picking out particular producers. The big names are all there but plenty of small ones two. The real attraction though is the easy to read style of writing that is engaging and amusing. 
There is plenty of opinion and you can detect whether the author loves or merely likes the specific producers. I like the sense that the book has not been edited to death or that the author has worried about what they write. I keep going back over sections as and when I have certain producers wines and I find it both accurate, engaging and useful. I also have the Brunello book by the same author and that seems similarly good though I have not read it as widely yet. Recommended!

Barolo MGA - ENOGEA - Allesandro Masnaghetti  www.enogea.it
So this is "quite" a specific and geeky book but it is such an important one also. I only  received it the other day and have been using the Enogea apps and maps for quite some time. Ok so I find the subject mater fascinating but regardless of that the maps and images alone make this book almost impossible not to browse through, there is such depth of information but at the same time you can just dip in and out. The only problem is that the second you press print on this something changes and I feel awful for the author that this happens. Anyway I am going to go and look through it again now!

Gaja at Zucca

I was delighted to get an invite from the UK agents for Gaja to a lunch at my Favourite Zucca. The format was a good one given that Gaia Gaja, Angelo's daughter, was in town sadly with very limited time. She came for a session pre-lunch and talked through the 2011's before also talking through the wines we were to have with lunch.

She is a very good and engaging host who does a very good job saying what must be similar things almost day in day out, you don't get that feeling and that is quite a skill. She had a few good sound bites, all delivered in a cheeky fashion, my favourite of which was "Nebbiolo - the variety the french don't have".

On a more serious note I have had a fair few Gaja's down the years and always found them to deliver, possibly more in a solid way than a charming one but that is down probably more to my bias towards traditional Barolo and Barbaresco than anything. The wines that the family make are good to very good and certainly you can't claim to have explored Piedmont and it's brilliance (bias again) without spending considerable time on these wines.

Before the tasting Gaia spoke a little about 2014. A vintage with a cool June, warm July and then very cool August (average 17 degrees) before a better September/October. Severe green harvesting was needed if what was to be picked would be ripe. It was a year where Gaja saw production in Barolo down by 40% and Barbaresco down by 20%.

When talking of 2011 Gaia mentioned that if was a decent year, better in Barbaresco than Barolo (which is still in concrete). Simpler to 2010 in having an elegant/lighter body...

Barbaresco 2011
Bold tannins but not too much so. Lovely nose, clean, saline with cherry fruit then other red fruits, roots and rhubarb, some lovely sweetness. A blend of 14 different vineyards sites. Impressive.

Costa Russi 2011
The last site to flower and the last to be picked. It is a site that has less humidity and is cooler with a more compact soil. I found this denser, darker and creamier with more texture, a little more wood does show but there is again a little saline, bold and lovely if obviously youthful.

Sori Tildin 2011
Gaia suggested that the addition of a little Barbera is a little like a little Merlot with the Cabernet in Bordeaux. This site is a little sandier and nearer the top of the hill. I found more spice, a deeper wine but not darker than the Costa Russi, more tannin, it took a little while to open in the glass. There was a bell-pepper lift to the wine that I liked. Very good.  

We then re-visited the white that we were served on arrival:


Rossj Bass 2013
A blend of 95% Chardonnay and 5% Sauvignon Blanc this wine is named after Angelo Gaja's youngest daughter Rossana. The grapes come from three sites planted in 1986: The Rossj and Bass vineyards in Barbaresco and a small vineyard in Serralunga. It is a wine I have enjoyed before. Ripe lemon and lime fruit combine with a small dash of toastiness. The fruit character is a little like a generous Chablis as there is real minerality. I like this! They so also make another serious white Gaia and Rey which is 100% Chardonnay and requires more time.

We then moved on to the, as ever, immaculate food:

Antipasti Misti

Taglerini, Pheasant Ragu and hazelnuts

Slow cooked pork shoulder, porcini and yellow polenta

Chocolate semifreddo, pecan ice cream and caramel

Barbaresco 1998

Thus had a slightly rancio nose, iron and resin this was a good drink but not up to Sori San Lorenzo 1998 served even more recently. There is a very true ferrous and iron-like character and with food this is good. Fully mature I would argue best drunk now.

Conteisa 2005 Magnum
Conteisa is a Barolo (with Barbera) in the same way that CR or SSL are Barbaresco. From a site in the Cerequio vineyard in the La Morra sub-district. Very good, nicely done in a sometimes tricky vintage, quite bold and dark but not without freshness, impressed.

Costa Russi 2008
I really like the 2008 vintage in Piedmont and I think it'll prove a savvy buy for many in years to come. The 2004/2006/2010 vintages are spectacular but the 2008 is a little more feminine and I expect the drinking windows to be massively wide. This wine was true to my words, not overly big of rich but in a lovely balance that I think will stand it in good stead.

A cracking lunch - Will and Adam - thank you...and Gaia of course!

Wines in Wales

I am very late in posting this but there we go!

Our annual family trip down to Wales (back in May!) for a week is always great chance to try lots of bottles especially with my "Cousin -in-law" Cynan who loves his wine, having contributed lots of the below, and cooks amazing food!

24-5-14

CNDP VV Blanc 2011, Tardieu-laurent

Lovely, a bit of oak but "in check", richness of white fruits and a little sweet toffee, so drinkable.

Les Carmes-Haut-Brion 2004

Good nose or classical cedar, black fruit and gravel…the palate is a little dry now and a little foursquare. The sweetness does not last. having had this a few times I am ever so slightly disappointed by it's balance now.

25-5-14

La Roche Blanche 2013 Muscadet Cotes de Grandieu sur lie, Domaine Herbauges

Very taut and mineral, white fruit may be but mostly stones and acidity. The screw cap closure I think makes it even more exaggerated would be interesting if decanted. Decent though.

Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2007, Vincent Dampt

In good shape with an unctuous nutty (unsalted) texture. Needs food really as there is a slight side of oxidation without it.

CNDP VV Blanc 2011, Tardieu-laurent

Lovely again, a bit of oak but in check, richness of white fruits and a little sweet toffee, so drinkable. Very good with cheese and still balanced at a warmer temperature. Fond of this!

Chorey-Les-Beaune Piece du Chapitre 2004, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Nice wine with elegance and not at all forced, slightly lifted green/red fruit, not amazing but a decent 2004.

Chorey-Les-Beaune Piece du Chapitre 2007, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

A more decadent fruit than the 2004, more black amongst the red, good and enjoyable, nicely balanced, I like this.

Les Carmes-Haut-Brion 2004

The end of the bottle from the day before, a little drier but still ok.

Barbaresco 2006, Produttori del Barbaresco

Lovely, gentle for 2006 with a nice fragrance, there is the grip you expect of 2006 but it is not a waste to drink now.

Barolo Brunate 2006, Marcarini

Quite a silky wine for a 2006, so more "Brunate" in style than it is 2006 in style. Good texture and not pronounced tannin. I liked this also.

26-5-14

Ardeche Chardonnay 2012, Louis Latour

Fine, a little oxidative and flabby but decent enough, unexciting.

Passopisciaro 2006 Double magnum

Crunchy red bruised fruit, a lovely nervousness and life, lifted, not light in flavour but not dense in texture. Great minerality and if anything even better on day 2. You can tell the Contrada’s (the single vineyard sites that until 2008 went into the generic wine) are in here.

27-5-14

Que Bonito Cacareaba 2004, Benjamin Romeo

Oranges and Melons with delicious unctuousness. There is some acidity but it is very soft, almost a creamy texture with some botrytis. Entering a slightly lifeless stage. my last bottle gone, always meant to leave one for decades but...

Barolo Villero 2007, Brovia

Understated lightness as though they have picked very early to avoid the heat, there is almost a spritz, it was fine to drink but I am not sure it’s quite right. Second time I have had it and I remain unconvinced.

Passopisciaro 2006 Dmag

Again and getting better if anything!

Recioto della Valpolicella 2010, Tesauro

Lots of dark cherry and a few forest fruits then intensity of viscosity and chocolate, long, intense but not without refinement and class. Good.

28-5-14

Que Bonito Cacareaba 2004, Benjamin Romeo

The last little bit - good!

Barolo Cannubbio 2007, Francesco Rinaldi

Quite dense and structured, not too warm. There is focus and I really think this estate did well in 2007.

Recioto della Valpolicella 2010, Tesauro

Good again not oxidised at all despite half open bottle from previous evening.

29-5-14

El Aprendiz "Albarinblanco" 2013, Leyenda del Paramo - Very clean and focussed, crisp and zippy, almost Gruner like! makes you hungry! 

Le Rocchette Barbera d"Asti 2010, Tenuta Olim Bauda - good wine this with that tell tale cool(er) vintage Barbera cleanness, has precision and very food friendly...

I am sure there are bottles I have missed!

Italian Wine night at Zucca (Just for a change)

Raw mackerel and Sicilian Prawns

Last week saw a gathering of a few wine trade friends with Mr Sabourin orchestrating the wines everyone brought and Mr Harris (proprietor of Zucca) making sure we had a brilliant menu, expertly cooked and assembled by Chef Megan. So to get up and running we had a delicious bottle of Perle 2004, Ferrari which sees 4 years on the lees and is right up there amongst the best of sparkling wines, it was still youthful but a great wine to get the juices flowing for food.
Next on show was my offering for the evening, a pair of Meursault's from a producer I feel is a little under appreciated - Thierry Matrot - you will see Thierry et Pascale and also Joseph or Pierre Matrot on bottles but it is all one estate run my Thierry and Pascale, with the next generation involved too. New oak use is very low (max 25%) and the wines age brilliantly. Interestingly on this evening the Meursault Charmes 1er Cru 2008 seemed to out perform the Meursault Perrieres 1er Cru 2008. Both were good and a couple of our party "argued" that the Perrieres was getting better and better. The Charmes just seemed to have a little edge in the refinement stakes, either way a good pair.

Mr Harris does the necessary 

Moving away from Burgundy, briefly, was a richly fruited but now almost dry bottle of complex and unctuous Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese 1989 Auktion wine, Schloss Schonborn, amazing depth of flavour and development, brilliant, a real wine of texture and supreme length.I must get more Rhinegau wine into my cellar. With quite a bit more fish to come, including the best Tuna I have ever had, Sam then kindly decided a bottle of Puligny Montrachet Folatieres 1er Cru 2005, Leflaive would be a good idea, how right he was. Having had the very same wine but 2 months ago at home (here) again with Eric and Sam (it was Sam's bottle then too) this was going to be interesting. The one in November was good, rich, yeasty more Meursaultesque, this bottle was "electrically" Puligny, a rapier to the taste buds, not showing 8 years at all, a dash of reduction (I like that!) and such a balance of beautiful fruit with great acidity, stunning.
Keeping with the idea of wine in pairs we then had a fascinating combo, two wines 30 years apart but with many similarities - Barbaresco 1971, Francesco Rinaldi & Clos de la Roche 2001, Hubert Lignier. The parallels between Burgundy and Barbaresco/Barolo are often talked about, the importance of site/terroir, one grape variety, oak use, long-lived refined wines etc. This pairing showed the similarities and may be differences amazingly well. The Barbaresco held a great colour and fruited nose there was no way it was 42 years of age. The structure was elegant too, no hard edges. F.Rinaldi also made a great barolo in 1971. The Clos de la Roche had some intensity but a gorgeous purity of red/black fruit, real freshness and elegance but with a backbone, I love the 2001 reds and this is no exception, a long life ahead as it had little development yet.

Roast shoulder of lamb with Spelt

The next wine was rightly served alone and has to go down as one of the most significantly memorable I have had - Barolo Riserva Especiale “Mussolini” 1937 - the Mussolin part is because of the ‘Vini di Regime’ slip label that identifies this as being for the leader himself and from his cellar. With 1937 not being a vintage of any great note, a glimpse at the wine and the beauty of the bottle was enough but the wine itself actually was amazing, it took a few moments to come out of itself and then it was elegant floral salty wine of complexity, the most amazing feature being that after 25-30 minutes in glass it was becoming more expressive and floral the opposite of a wine that shows a little and then dies...a unique moment.

A brace of reds from one of the great vintages, 1964, was next - Barolo Riserva 1964, Guiseppe Mascarello & Barolo Riserva Speciale 1964, Giacosa - they were delicious and especially so with the Lamb. As a weird coincidence I had the Mascarello about 2 weeks previously (see here) and the bottle on this evening was far superior, very elegant, that classical roses and tar profile but so elegantly fresh, a light rosy colour with little development on the rim. The Giacosa got a slightly luke warm response from Eric but I enjoyed it very much for its contrast to the style of the Mascarello, far more earthy, more masculine, a little grittier and harder but then that countered the other wine well.
The black treacle tart with salt was well matched to the glasses of Vigna del Volta 2008 Emilia, Malvasia Passito and the meal was done, stunning food amazing wines and a lot of laughs...many of which seemed to be reserved for my gold braces...they ain't seen nuffink yet!!

Moresco amongst many treats at Zucca

The Glorious Trio

As some of you know I am no stranger to Zucca but even by their standards this was an extraordinary display. Sam Harris, chef/owner, was sat with us, he doesn't miss these sorts of evenings and there is a reason for this! The wines had all been organised by Eric with all the guests bringing a bottle. To kick off it had to be Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta, Cuvee Prestige, as glorious as ever, I love this stuff, never pretentious but appetising and balanced, flows down a treat, all three bottle that is. Once the assembled had all got their bottles out and those that needed decanting were resting we all sat down for the bread - Focaccia, Grissini and Cripsy Pasta. The later was a new one on me, linguine with lots of salt and crisped up, very moreish.

The first of four starters - a very elegant Sea Trout with fennel - was served up with a wine that was new to me Paleo 2009 from Le Macchiole a blend of 70% Sauvignon and 30% Chardonnay, it had a nose that I thought was a little like a dry white Bordeaux from one of the Sauternes houses but an extra layer of texture from the Chardonnay. I had a few visits back to this wine during the evening and I enjoyed it more and more as it evolved, well worth trying. The next step was back to bubbles and this time a serious and decadently aged bottle in Billecart Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois 1990 with Tuna & Crab involtini, a cracking combo. The Billecart was at a lovely stage, rich but still fresh enough, mature rather than old, I remember having the 1988 many years ago and this was more refined. So with half the starters done - this was not an evening for the small eater - it was time to have my contribution Meursault 1er Cru Sous Les Dos d’ane 2007 from Domaine Leflaive, in magnum, with Grilled Langoustines that had arrived from Scotland earlier in the day. This worked well. a combination of Meursault's broader structure and the leanness of 2007 went well with the gorgeous Langoustines. I am professionally biased in favour of Domaine Leflaive but this was showing really well and white Burgundy in magnum is just the job for 10 people.
The centrepiece of this dinner was 3 vintages - 1970, 1974 & 1979 - of Barbaresco Giovannini Moresco. In his prime Moresco owned 28 acres in one of Piedmonts most famous vineyards, Pajore. Between 1967 and 1979 he made just five Barbaresco's, so to have 3 of them in one sitting was a great treat. The land was ultimately sold to Angelo Gaja and is now used to produce Sito Moresco which is a blend of many different varieties including Nebbiolo but in a minority, such a shame and one not to think about too much. The wines themselves: The 1970 was very elegant, fully mature with a hint of frazzles, light in colour a wine with a real balance, I think it will start to fade gracefully from here so this timing was terrific, it complimented the Beef Carpaccio, fresh Porcini superbly. The first bottle of 1974 was the wine of the night for me until the second bottle which amazingly surpassed it. It was quite simply one of those wines that had everything; elegance, depth, fruit, florality (new word I think), savoury balance, weightless but evident structure. Not the sort of wine were fruit adjectives work well or come easily. The Risotto, Borettone Onions was a good foil to it as it was a subtle and balanced dish with great texture made even better when Sam decided we needed a covering of white truffle (it's a hard life!). When the 1979 came round I just remember liking it! It was a little more savoury and masculine but I was still slightly under the spell of the 1974 in honesty.
The next two wines were from two big names in Barolo and two with a firm association with the more modern styled wines, these were both good. Barolo Granbussia Reserva 1985, Aldo Conterno was a lovely bottle with real depth, balanced but rich and masculine with a savoury yet luscious texture, it is not going to fade at all but this struck me as a great time to be drinking it, very good. Chitarra, Veal & pistachio meatballs was again a good compliment to the wine, the pasta having a great texture to it. Barolo Rocche 1996, Vietti was up next, youthful but not too young, I like the savoury density of the 1996's and this had that but was more open than I expected. The Vietti wines do impress me as they age, the quality of the fruit comes though the oak. I'd love to see their fruit made into Barolo is a more 'neutral" way.

The two mags and Paleo 2009

That signified the end of the Nebbiolo and with Venison and Wild Mushrooms to come we were onto two magnums - Rauzan Segla 1999 & Sassicaia 2001. They were not to disappoint, both good, very different but within a similar framework. I was interested to taste the Rauzan as I saw a couple of the team from Chateau Margaux recently and asked which vintage they like to show at the moment that wasn't from a "glamour" vintage and they said 1999. A colleague at another dinner the same night had the Pavilion Rouge 1999 in mag and I think you can say that the Margaux commune 1999's are pretty dam good and now. This was very Margaux, elegant, fragrant, floral with enough weight but not in any way overpowering, a wine where you feel the winemaker let it happen rather than forcing anything (always a good thing in my book). The Sassicaia was spot on, the most that I have enjoyed a "young" Sassicaia. It had it's classic ripe green bell pepper, the trademark of the wine for me. It was open and slightly loose knit which worked well. The two mags made a great pairing.
We were approaching 11.30 by now but there were still two puddings to go!! The first of which, fortunately, was very elegant and refreshing; Raspberry jelly, lemon thyme with Saracco Moscato d’asti 2011 poured over it. I had never had Saracco before, very good it was too. The second/main pudding was simply brilliant - Custard tart, pine nut brittle, vanilla ice cream and olive oil - and the Olive oil bit is not a stunt, it works a treat, the pepper and texture of the Oil making you think, but in no way is it awkward. The Vin Santo 2001, San Giusto a Rentennnano was a great wine to have with it, intense buttery sweetnmess but with a good acidity. After so much food and wine I have never seen a pudding so well enjoyed...what an evening...I'd do it all again any day!

The Risotto before it's "covering" of white truffle!

Gaja & Giacosa at The Dock Kitchen

Great venue

I was delighted to be asked to join several members of the trade at a lunch hosted by the agents for both Gaja and Bruno Giacosa on friday at The Dock Kitchen. A great venue and as ever I won't go on too much about the food, but can safely say it is well worth a visit. We started with a few glasses of Spumante Extra Brut 2006, Bruno Giacosa on the sun deck. It is a soft and aromatic fizz, good and enjoyable if not complex, I am amazed it is 6 years old as it is so elegant and fresh. We were then seated and started to dig into Proscuitto, black figs & basil Frigatelli peppers, olives & ricotta all supported with Toasts: white beans, chopped beef & tomato. The two whites to accompany these were

Nice whites!

Roero Arneis 2011, Bruno Giacosa & Rossj-Bass Chardonnay 2011, Gaja. I really enjoyed both, Arneis is sometimes a bit tricky I find but this had enough lush fruit to go with the tartness that the grape gives, good food wine and about as good as Arneis gets. The Rossj-Bass was very good indeed, the fact it sees used oak and is therefore subtle as well as ripe works really well. The dash of Sauvignon that is added probably helps to lift the aromas too, an impressive lunchtime white that I'd like to drink again.
It was now time for reds with a very enjoyable Delica pumpkin & pancetta risotto. The two reds were

Barbaresco Rabajà 1998, Bruno Giacosa & Sorì San Lorenzo 2001, Gaja. This pair showed a lovely contrast. To take the Gaja first it was rich and bold but not without freshness and subtlety. Still a young wine but lovely even now. It had the Gaja stamp on it but not overpoweringly so. Impressive. The Giacosa was, as expected, lighter in colour and in extraction. It was good but almost a little too evolved for what should still be a youthful wine, an enjoyable delicate drink now wine that is only a dash disappointing because it is more forward than you'd expect. It is a real shame that the wine can no longer be called Rabaja.
It was now time for the main meat feast in the shape of 30 day aged Longhorn sirloin with Tuscan roast potatoes, rocket & salsa verde, a delicious piece of meat it was too, really great tasting fat on it (the key for me if not my cholesterol). The two wines to accompany were going to be interesting, Barolo Falletto di Serralunga 2007, Bruno Giacosa (from double magnum - at least) & 

This works!

Conteisa 1999, Gaja both were enjoyable but as you would expect could not have been more different. The Giacosa was an elegant and feminine expression especially for Barolo but I think this is a good way to have dealt with the 2007 harvest. It was easy to make almost overripe, late harvest type, bruised fruit, wines and whilst this may not make old bones I feel it is a good wine for the vintage. The Gaja was a foursquare wine with an angular structure, good but probably never going to loosen up enough to be charming, proper stuff though and great with the beef. We then had what read on the menu as one of those "this'll never work" combunations - Salt caramel ice cream with Vigna Seré IGT Veneto 2003 Romano Dal Forno but do yo know what? It was awesome, both the brilliant richness of the ice cream and the elegant ripeness of the Dal Forno, a real tour de force. There was of course coffee to follow but by now it was most certainly cigar time, so courtesy of Eric it was time for a Hoyo Epicure No2 from 2001, mellow and lovely, I smoked it down to my fingers and then had a possibly even better Hoyo du Depute also, I think, from 2001. I felt slightly guilty for not trying the Grappa - Gaia & Rey NV but in reality it had been a splendid enough long lunch without the need for the hard stuff...
Really fascinating...