Elystan Street - a first evening...

A rather splendid email arrived from Gary Birchtree (not his real name!) suggesting a dinner in the private room of Philip Howard's new restaurant Elystan Street on opening night. It was not a hard invite to accept. I have loved The Square (where he is now not involved) and Kitchen W8 (where he still is). The rest of the crowd was wine trade friends. The only disturbing part of the evening was discovering that I was the second oldest, only Mr Sherwood keeping be from the ultimate seniority.   

So we gathered, after a ten-minute stroll from Sloane Square tube for me, in the private room and were "treated" to 1992 En Tirage Extra Brut Russian River Valley Sparkling Wine. Our organiser who had sent this did two things one good (for him) and one bad. The good thing was that he arrived late having sent the wine on, the bad thing was sending three bottles. One would have been enough. An enticing nose but a dead palate, may be unfair in this company but probably better a while ago. Certainly not in the same league as the other "sparkler" later.

This was an evening about: Food, venue, company and wine. So to cover off the food it was all superb! There was no dish I would not have wanted more of (greed) or would not happily order again many times. The menu is below.

Ravioli of Langoustines with barbecue dressing, hispi Cabbage and sweetcorn.

-

Roast calf’s sweetbread with truffled autumn slaw, seeded nut butter and mimolette.

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Rump of lamb with pesto roasted aubergine, garlic puree, green olives and balsamic vinegar.

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Roasted figs with goats milk ice cream, lemon and thyme fritters and olive oil

or

Cheese

It was time now for a flight of whites. The first and last of which were from (two) bottle(s) the Drouhin being a magnum. The Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 1999, F.Raveneau bottles were both good ones, the first possibly just edging it for energy. Wax and lanolin with a very "proper" Chablis nose, a little of that dry-honey character. Mature on the plate but still with good vibrancy, a cracking wine in a good place. Beaune Clos des Mouches 1996, Drouhin was an imposing magnum and one might say a brave one. There was a dash of coffee on the nose, this was broad but not loose, I'd have been in Meursault if blind I think. Mature and with a decadent texture, nice wine. We then switched to the Loire with Pur sang 2011, Dagueneau. I don't know the Dagueneau wines all that well but have enjoyed what I have tried. This was expressive, quite broad and open, a little tropical but with enough of the nettle character though not sharp nettles, warm ones if that makes any sense. It was a splendid trio all in all.

Les blancs...

Interestingly we were not "packing any Pinot" on this occasion so we moved straight to Nebbiolo with an intriguing trio, three different sites and three different vintages all in magnum. Young Nebbiolo is something people should not, in my opinion, miss out on. Barbaresco Montestefano 2008 from Produttori del Barbaresco kicked us off. This had a more open and more warm vintage feel that I expected. It was very easy to enjoy from this underestimated vintage. These are such good wines. Barolo La Tartufaia 2010 from Giulia Negri was up next, a blend of Nebbiolo from two crus - Serradenari and Brunate - showing a good degraded fruit and easy drinkability even now though it will age very well. Barolo Cannubi Boschis 2011 from Sandrone completed the Piedmont trio. There is a tar and texture feel to this, it has a tiny hint of toffee from wood but is ultimately both rich and balanced. Good spices too, a wine with a broad drinking window, as could be said for all these.

The three Piedmonteers...

It was Bordeaux next and a good threesome. La Lagune 2001 got us started and I have to say La Lagune isn't necessarily an estate that I get excited about, have they made some lovely wines? yes definitely but I mentally file it under "dependable" rather than "exciting". This 2001, in magnum as were the wines that followed, was delicious and certainly exciting. Lifted with a good bit of sappy liveliness and then a driven and energetic, almost red fruited palate...simply lovely. The La Conseillante 1999 was darker fruited and from a clearly less great vintage, it was good and very true to the house but just a little muddied in comparison to the La Lagune. Tasted and drunk on its own it'd be splendid. The most different of the Bordeaux was Palmer 1976 (a BBR bottling). A very hot vintage, think 2003 but without the heat spikes just consistently hot and dry. The nose had a citrus element, sweet and tarry, mellow in tannin, gently moreish. A wine it was terrific to try and a good drink too.

As we moved towards pudding or cheese we had an eclectic last flight. Two bottles of Clos de Bourg 1989 Moelleux 1er Trie from Huet had that lovely combination of zesty acidity and generous sweetness...a sweet wine I could certainly just drink alone and as an aperitif or with food (both pudding and/or cheese). Zippy apples and a dash of honey. Then Champagne - Moet & Chandon 1978 “Grand Vintage Collection“ (Disgorged 2004) - which reminded me of dry honey and a rancio character with good energy, a little of that "late-disgorgement" cocoa character. A lovely toasty finish, a wine at its peak now I think, well to my style anyway. Champagne later in a meal is a good idea I think. I am not sure why a bottle of Ornellaia 2000 was opened but I am glad it was, quite savoury and bold, a little bit of Bovril, good darker fruits and enough acidity.

And that, as they say, was that...a thoroughly enjoyable evening and a lovely restaurant that I will certainly be returning too!! As for the company...well the wine trade remains a place for fun, often opinionated, folk...long may it continue.

Produttori del Barbaresco 2011's...a great tasting

I love these wines and buy them regularly. I also have a pretty good range of experience with them as the posts below show:

Vertical of Pora Cru
1971 Barbresco gets a mention here
A Cru comparison 2005 Asili & Montefico
Barbaresco 1970

This tasting was overseen, in charismatic form, by the commercial director of Produttori del Barbaresco, Aldo Vacca. Recently described by Ian D'Agata as a 'walking encyclopedia on Nebbiolo and Barbaresco', Aldo guided us through the 2011 Cru release.

There are two elements to the Riserva release which make it particularly intriguing. To start with the Crus are not released every year. When quality is not deemed high enough, only the Langhe Nebbiolo and 'regular' Barbaresco are produced, subsequently, this regular Barbaresco is of an even more outstanding in quality, as it includes the top fruit which normally would have gone into making the Crus. Secondly, it's an 'all or nothing' situation, either all the nine Crus are produced, or none. In any given year, if the high quality is not consistent throughout all nine single vineyards, then none will be made. It is this unwavering, quality-focused, approach which means that the Produttori del Barbaresco Riservas rank amongst the best wines in Italy.

As a bit of extra info: The Produttori del Barbaresco co-operative now covers 110 hectares which is spread between 52 members. All members have to commit 100% to the Produttori and can not make wines that compete or sell grapes elsewhere. The nines Crus circle round the Barbaresco village starting from Ovello, Montefico and Montestefano on the North-eastern side, looping down to the South-eastern and southern areas with Muncagota, Pajè, Asili and Pora. Finally, Rabajà and Rio Sordo lie in the next band of vineyards, a little further south. The Produttori has been making the single vineyard wines since 1967 and is the largest producer of Barbaresco.

My notes in the order tasted. All scored out of 20...

Langhe Nebbiolo 2014 - "Baby Barbaresco" as it is often referred to. It spends 5 months in big barrels This wine has been made since 1975 (ironically "my" vintage), the appellation only came into existence in the 1970's. In 2014 Barbaresco was reportedly the best of the Piedmont areas, it was a wet spring and early summer before the late summer and September where dry and gave good ripening conditions. Full but transparent colour, cool cherry fruit, strawberry also, more sour cherry on the palate with a nice bit of grip. There is a creamy element as well as a little gentle spice - white pepper. Great value - 17

Barbaresco 2012 - The were no Crus made in 2012 so all the "juice" is in the straight Barbaresco which was bottled in March 2015. The weather in the vintage was arguably a little too warm and never really cooled down so the differentiation between sites did not quite warrant the Crus being released. This is lovely with a darker richer intensity. More black fruit than red, good weight, a mulled fruit quality. Juicy. 17.5-18

The 2011 vintage was a ripe, rich and intense vintage, full-bodied, as ripe as it gets without over ripeness, chilly nights and hot days that saw lovely differentiation of sites and splendid complexity. A case (12bts) of the Langhe Nebbiolo 2011 that I had at home didn't even last a month - delicious!

Barbaresco Riserva Pajè 2011 - Nice nose, a little coffee, sweet with good depth, some spice. The fruit has purity and might just be strawberry more than anything but it is hard to define one fruit type. Good acidity - a good start. 17

Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota 2011 - More lifted with redder fruit than Paje. Lovely finish to this. Overall this shows that rare trait of richness and coolness. 18

Barbaresco Riserva Pora 2011 - Aldo commented here that Pora tended to be more approachable, more herbal than many Crus as it is closer to the river. I found this to have a sage and herbal nose as well as good lush fruit. Lovely almost menthol fruit freshness, some bold tannins but not too much, ripe. 17.5-18

Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo 2011 - Vibrant red cherry fruit and also a little spice, lovely cool fruited palate, not aggressive. This is not overly complex but is nicely complete. 17-17.5

Barbaresco Riserva Asili 2011 - Darker but at the same time more muted and more serious, more saline also (I do love salinity). The palate is then lovely with big ripe tannins, mouth coating but not drying, long, bold and serious. The pick possibly. 18.5

Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà 2011 - A little muted but good mid-red fruit with some black elements. Not heavy in tannin but developed on the palate, not quite so fresh. This is a little more bruised or degraded and a little less precise, a little tough, time needed? 16.5

Barbaresco Riserva Ovello 2011 - Placed at the northern tip of Barbaresco and with a multiple exposure but common soil type. Lighter and a little brighter, fresher, I really liked this. Has a poised red fruit and a good, if less obtrusive structure. Good, more feminine, stands apart stylistically. 18-18.25

Barbaresco Riserva Montefico 2011 - With a full south exposure. Lifted menthol freshness and then this combines with very bright red fruits. Bold rich tannins follow on the palate, cracking nose, the tannin may need to resolve into the wine, when it does this could be rather special. 17.75-18.25

Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano 2011 - A little muted and harder to define, less red fruits, bold yet somehow more insular, savoury and a little saline, this may just be a more brooding example. Despite the mixed note I gave it a rather definite 18

A very fine tasting indeed...

Produttori del Barbaresco - a vertical of Pora...

This was the first dinner/tasting I experienced with a group known as the "Rabelaisians" run by Rob and Sara. The idea is a simple split the bill scenario with a theme - horizontal or vertical - for each dinner.

As the title gives away this was vertical of the "Pora" Cru from Produttori del Barbaresco. A little bit of background that is shamelessly botched together from the "net" follows.

The arrival of Cavazza in 1881 in Barbaresco put the spotlight onto the region and in 1894 he founded the Cantina Sociale di Barbaresco with a group of nine growers. Though the quality of the nebbiolo grown in the region had long been recognized, the newly founded Cantina is generally recognized as the birthyear of ‘Barbaresco’. Two World Wars and the subsequent poverty in Italy had a profound effect on the region and revival only started in the 1960s and 1970s thanks to a generation of young growers such as Angelo Gaja, Bruno Giacosa and the cooperative cellar of Produttori del Barbaresco, the successor of the original Cantina Sociale di Barbaresco. Barbaresco became a DOC in 1966 and a DOCG in 1980.

Produttori del Barbaresco was founded in 1958 by a local priest Don Fiorino Marengo to retain Barbaresco’s young farmers in the area. Today it is recognized as one of the leading producers in the region and its members own one-sixth of the vineyards in Barbaresco. Winemaking in the cellars is very traditional with 28-day fermentations and ageing in large casks. Produttori del Barbaresco Website

Pora

Pora is widely considered as the flagship wine of Produttori. It was at one time owned by Domizio Cavazza and among the first single vineyard wines to be released by the cooperative. It is south-southwest facing, bordering Asili on Calcareous blue marl. The single vineyard’Pora’ bottling is always a Riserva and today aged for three years in botti. 

I was very excited by this tasting as I have always looked to buy the Produttori wines and in fact have blogged about some examples before

2005 - Montefico and Asili
1970 - Barbaresco

The venue will surprise nobody - Zucca, the menu is below:

Salumi Misti

Buffalo Mozzarella with roasted pumpkin

Vitello tonnato

Taglerini, rabbit ragu and crispy sage

Slow cooked pork shoulder, porcini and yellow polenta

Chocolate and salted caramel tart, hazelnut ice cream

Taglerini, rabbit ragu and crispy sage

The wines were served in three flights of four wines each.

Flight 1

2005 - Rich, lovely, precise, has a bit of bite, black cherry, quite bold but clean, blacker fruit that normal. 17

2004 - Ever so slightly closed, slightly airy which is just an expression of it seriousness I guess. There is an intensity about it's texture. It seems an odd comment but this is very clean and precise, long also, I am guessing this will be quite something. 18+

2001 - Slightly disappointing...saline and leather, very masculine, tasting 5-10 years older than it should be. A little too degraded. I have a feeling the bottle was not perfect, it just seemed a little heavy. No score.

2000 - You can tell this was a warm vintage, it has that slightly bruised fruit and a slight lack of precision. A tiny bit dry at the end and without much upside in terms of cellaring, you could keep it but why. All that sounds negative but actually as a wine to drink now it's a good glass. It's just a bit more Monday/Tuesday night Spag Bol than Thursday night truffle pasta if that makes sense. 15.5

Verdict - overall I think people liked 2004 then 2005 with the other two a little behind and general agreement that 2001 wasn't "spot on".

Flight 2

1999 - Some maturity coming, clean, intense, tightly wound, a slight bricky red fruit, Iron and lifted herbs. Really pure and for the purist also. Excitingly correct and proper, just what it should be! 18.5

1997 - Almost a slight greek yoghurt nose, deep and sweet, a slight aniseed edge, degraded but with some strawberry fruit, of the same style as the 2000 but with more to offer. 16.5-17
  

1996 - A little bit of "swimming pool" (not a bad note oddly) then some pine and resin, soy and a little spice but essentially very lean and a little angular, a slight wet-hay greenness. There were a few who thought this corked, I didn't. It was just mean to me, very 1996 in a way. 16

1995 - Initial nose reminds me of caramel, good acidity and nicely complete wine, there is richness and a little salinity (never quite managed to be salted caramel). There is not masses of fruit here but this is good. 17.5

Verdict - No real consensus, many preferred the 1997 but it was third in my book, interesting differences, a flight that slightly lacked fruit given it is not old yet. I'd have that 1999 in my cellar any day (wouldn't last long mind you)

Wine of the night? Only just...

Flight 3

1985 - Beautiful, persistent, elegant, saline, red fruit, simple stoney minerality, the only other vintage it could have been was 1982, absolutely lovely. 18 

1978 - Some stink (sewage even) that passed very quickly then some degraded fruit, good acidity is coming through, sweetness is there and then some soy, this is at a lovely stage and is really quite decadent. 18

1971 - "Swimming pool" initially this passes and leaves trademark salinity thereafter you have archetypal aged nebbiolo, fruit of which some is red, then you have a savoury edge, bovril and soy...really delicious. Complete 18.5

1970 - Some spice, rich, blacker fruit, may be the youngest tasting of this flight, amazing texture and darker colour. There really is something different and special about the 1970 vintage, several wines I have had have this deeper darker body, with some there is a specific reason (Monprivato). Superb 18 

Verdict - A dream of a flight, more because all wines showed exactly what you would want them too in terms of the perceived vintage characteristics.

A real fun evening, well organised and Pora showed very well...buy it when it is released!

Thanks to Rob and Sara...

A Cru comparison - 2005 Asili and Montefico...

On friday a couple of weeks ago I got home and thought what to drink? I quite like opening a few things on friday night that I know will be interesting to follow though the weekend and watch them evolve. The fact I have a newly installed and filled Eurocave means that I will probably do this more and more.

I eyed up the possibility of different Brunate 2007's but settled on a look at two of the single Cru Barbarescos from Produttori del Barbaresco - Montefico and Asili. In my eyes, and many others, the greatest co-operative of them all. Some years they just make one Barbaresco and one Langhe Nebbiolo but in good years they release the single vineyards as well (9 of them). There is never a middle ground it is either all 9 single Crus or just the Barbaresco. With a run of excitingly good Piedmont vintages (you shouldn't group Barbaresco and Barolo as one but lazily I am) there is a danger that 2005 is forgotten.

So the format: Both bottles came straight from the Eurocave at 12 degrees and where double decanted at 6.30pm on the friday. From there the wines were sampled alongside each other several times of the weekend and re-corked after each sampling. Essentially a slow oxidation was facilitated.

The Two sites both have 3 growers whose wines go into them:

Montefico  - Grasso, Rocca & Vacca.
Asili - Conti, Giacosa & Viglino.

Friday 7pm - first taste
Montefico - Cherry, berry fruit, rich but with pure violets, grip comes to the fore then, fresh and moreish, impressed.
Asili - Darker fruit than Montefico, deeper, but then a savoury saline airyness. Steel and salt, very "grown up". Taut and closed on the palate. Such a quintessential Nebbiolo nose.

Saturday 5-7 pm
Montefico - Cheery and stoney salt shows more, has opened up well, became quite lush.
Asili - More bruised fruit, an edge of degraded dark fruit and some leather, quite open at this point, almost decadent.

Sunday 6pm
Level in the bottles was very low from saturday evening so there had been a fair degree of oxidation.

Montefico - quite browned off fruit but still mellow and enjoyable.
Asili - Still a defined nose, impressive, tannin does then show through. Balanced

So, my conclusion:
Both good and show lovely Barbaresco Nebbiolo characters exactly what you would want. The Asili is just a shade more refined and regal, very very impressive indeed, the saline edge just adds a little. The Montefico comes across as a warmer spot and a little looser but that is picking holes - it is still lovely.

Montefico     17-17.5      Now to 2025 but best 2017-2020
Asili                17.5-18+   Now to 2029 but best 2018-2024

Wines in Wales

I am very late in posting this but there we go!

Our annual family trip down to Wales (back in May!) for a week is always great chance to try lots of bottles especially with my "Cousin -in-law" Cynan who loves his wine, having contributed lots of the below, and cooks amazing food!

24-5-14

CNDP VV Blanc 2011, Tardieu-laurent

Lovely, a bit of oak but "in check", richness of white fruits and a little sweet toffee, so drinkable.

Les Carmes-Haut-Brion 2004

Good nose or classical cedar, black fruit and gravel…the palate is a little dry now and a little foursquare. The sweetness does not last. having had this a few times I am ever so slightly disappointed by it's balance now.

25-5-14

La Roche Blanche 2013 Muscadet Cotes de Grandieu sur lie, Domaine Herbauges

Very taut and mineral, white fruit may be but mostly stones and acidity. The screw cap closure I think makes it even more exaggerated would be interesting if decanted. Decent though.

Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2007, Vincent Dampt

In good shape with an unctuous nutty (unsalted) texture. Needs food really as there is a slight side of oxidation without it.

CNDP VV Blanc 2011, Tardieu-laurent

Lovely again, a bit of oak but in check, richness of white fruits and a little sweet toffee, so drinkable. Very good with cheese and still balanced at a warmer temperature. Fond of this!

Chorey-Les-Beaune Piece du Chapitre 2004, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Nice wine with elegance and not at all forced, slightly lifted green/red fruit, not amazing but a decent 2004.

Chorey-Les-Beaune Piece du Chapitre 2007, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

A more decadent fruit than the 2004, more black amongst the red, good and enjoyable, nicely balanced, I like this.

Les Carmes-Haut-Brion 2004

The end of the bottle from the day before, a little drier but still ok.

Barbaresco 2006, Produttori del Barbaresco

Lovely, gentle for 2006 with a nice fragrance, there is the grip you expect of 2006 but it is not a waste to drink now.

Barolo Brunate 2006, Marcarini

Quite a silky wine for a 2006, so more "Brunate" in style than it is 2006 in style. Good texture and not pronounced tannin. I liked this also.

26-5-14

Ardeche Chardonnay 2012, Louis Latour

Fine, a little oxidative and flabby but decent enough, unexciting.

Passopisciaro 2006 Double magnum

Crunchy red bruised fruit, a lovely nervousness and life, lifted, not light in flavour but not dense in texture. Great minerality and if anything even better on day 2. You can tell the Contrada’s (the single vineyard sites that until 2008 went into the generic wine) are in here.

27-5-14

Que Bonito Cacareaba 2004, Benjamin Romeo

Oranges and Melons with delicious unctuousness. There is some acidity but it is very soft, almost a creamy texture with some botrytis. Entering a slightly lifeless stage. my last bottle gone, always meant to leave one for decades but...

Barolo Villero 2007, Brovia

Understated lightness as though they have picked very early to avoid the heat, there is almost a spritz, it was fine to drink but I am not sure it’s quite right. Second time I have had it and I remain unconvinced.

Passopisciaro 2006 Dmag

Again and getting better if anything!

Recioto della Valpolicella 2010, Tesauro

Lots of dark cherry and a few forest fruits then intensity of viscosity and chocolate, long, intense but not without refinement and class. Good.

28-5-14

Que Bonito Cacareaba 2004, Benjamin Romeo

The last little bit - good!

Barolo Cannubbio 2007, Francesco Rinaldi

Quite dense and structured, not too warm. There is focus and I really think this estate did well in 2007.

Recioto della Valpolicella 2010, Tesauro

Good again not oxidised at all despite half open bottle from previous evening.

29-5-14

El Aprendiz "Albarinblanco" 2013, Leyenda del Paramo - Very clean and focussed, crisp and zippy, almost Gruner like! makes you hungry! 

Le Rocchette Barbera d"Asti 2010, Tenuta Olim Bauda - good wine this with that tell tale cool(er) vintage Barbera cleanness, has precision and very food friendly...

I am sure there are bottles I have missed!

Sager & Wilde my first trip (and certainly not my last)

This evening made it's way into the diary a good two months earlier. It was with three like minded wine lovers. The venue was always going to be Sager & Wilde and having heard a lot about this place (all good, which is rare) there were no protests from me. They have a wonderful list put together by several of the team there but all from wines they love and want to drink. The Wine List just makes you want to trade up and the fact that the wines have the same (very modest) cash margin has the same effect. They must be selling a lot of the best actual bottles from "off the list" in London these days. The food offering is basic in a good way. Cold meats, great toasties and more simple dishes, all deliciously wine friendly without ever becoming fussy and certainly no need for cutlery.

The format of the evening was a sort of "your turn" scenario with all the wines coming from the list. There were several people who wandered over and shared bottles during the evening which is one of the great things about a place like this…it attracts kindred spirits... 

So, we were off and running with a little blind red…

Wetzer Kekfrancos 2011 Sopron, Hungary - Totally new on me and I guessed Cru Beaujolais…lovely aromatic blackberry and black cherry fruit with a real lift. The palate is round in shape rather than linear and the only way you could criticise this wine would be to say it is a little hollow but then, there is a lovely elegant finish, mellow with a dose of wet stones, impressive. We were then on to the whites for the next few bottles.

Enviate "Taganan" Parcela Amogoje Blanco 2012, Jose Paster Selections, Canary Islands - Ok so a long wine name (and the list of grape varieties is even worse!) and a rather smart Raveneau-esque capsule. This actually had a lovely Chablis-like character with a sort of waxy grapefruit. This showed a maturity (not tiredness) that would make you think it was 5 years older.

Barraco Catarratto 2012, Sicily - This I thought was absolutely delicious, a herbal wine with citrus and then a complex texture but never heavy…lovely…good choice Mr R.

Bourgogne Aligote 2000, Pierre Morey - Ok so this was my first pick with some help from Michael (owner)…I just thought that as we were doing things blind it's nice to watch and let people try when you know it is almost impossible (not in a cruel way just a fascinating one). The nose was mature and apple-like but NOT bruised apples, then the apples became toffee apples, good acidity…a great experience if not an "everyday tipple".

Hermitage Blanc 1997, Chave - This had a bit of time in a decanter but if truth be told it could have been there for hours. A rich texture without becoming heavy, a nose of honey and flowers a substantial palate…superbly hedonistic…have a look at the picture, annotated by DB to leave nobody in any doubt about who the bottle needed to be drunk by.

We ten thought "it's time for some red"…already this evening was building well…you need 4 whites before moving to the "serious" stuff!

Barbaresco 1970, Produttori del Barbaresco - I spotted this when looking for my white so had it decanted then. I have a massive love for this Co-op, the best anywhere. I have also had considerable joy with Piedmont wines from 1970 so this just seemed too good to miss. A wonderful expression of deep Nebbiolo in a very traditional style. Good dollops of Iodine in amongst a beautiful bruised black fruit, a cracking acidity to keep the freshness, tarry and perfect now.

Volnay 1er Cru Mitans 1988, Domaine de Montille - Mr P then struck with a very clever choice that had us all searching around Piedmont again only f0r it to be Volnay…what's that expression about being wrong for the right reasons? After the "reveal" I wish I'd been a bit more logical about things but hey the wine was good, fully mature and autumnal but in an elegant way.
  
Hermitage Le Greal 1983, Sorrel - My notes on this wine are rather hard to read given the rather vulgar doodling by DB but then he chose the wine. Exceptional and probably wine of the night all in all. aged tobacco and leaf tea, very fine red fruit too. Then a meaty mid-palate of liquid beef stock and dry Oxo cube before ending with a white pepper balance. Clearly of full maturity (certainly not on the way down though) but I was struggling to say Northern or Southern Rhone and went for the later - wrong of course. Very good wine!

Mas de Daumas Gassac 1989 - I found myself back in the hot seat and went for this for two reasons, Firstly I had a case of the 2000 that I drank ridiculously early on, never a bad thing if you're drinking it because you simply like it. Secondly, I have never had it when mature. This was dense and black in an "Iron meets cool climate Cab Sauv" sort of way, did I like it? Yes, was it charming? Not really. I'd love to try it again as the only red and with a great steak.   

The numbers around our table seemed to have swelled now and the next couple were wines we were very kindly given tasters of... 

Windgap Pinot Noir (not sure of vintage) - A very rich and high octane style of Pinot…may be a little "worked" but good, so much fruit…

Clos de papes CNDP 1998 - a "puppy" of a wine…it's all there and brooding in intensity and fruit, good minerality but a wine that definitely will be even better with time, not because "it" isn't all here now but because when the fruit is looser and the structure more organised it'll be superb…made a mental note to try this again in 7-8years…very good. 

Nuit-Saint-Georges "Aux Saint Julien" 2000, Daniel Bocqueret - I remember liking this but little more…taxi to North London please!!

Great evening that will be repeated….interesting cycle in the next morning...