Seeing in 2016!

I have come to really enjoy New Year's Eve. We have the same couple of families around and just eat and drink. There is now the odd girlfriend joining here and there but essentially it is the same each year. We always host which means I can select the wines. One of my quests of recent times is to get more and more people appreciating the variety and quality of many whites. For food Mrs H did two spectacularly large and brilliant potato Dauphinoises to accompany a vat of green beans with three lovely hams, the nibbles and puddings arriving with the guests.

The line-up I chose started with the cool complexity of Scharzhof Riesling 2009, Egon Muller. It was my last bottle of this which was a shame. It has real balance and is off-dry with nice gentle fruit, it seemed to go down well. Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2011, Vincent Dampt certainly surprised a few who thought Chablis was a very dry, slightly astringent style. I love Vincent's wines and buy them a lot, I hadn't had any of the 2011's for a while, this 2011 was lovely and balanced, totally open now, as most of them seem to be. We stayed in Burgundy and had the opulent, slightly toasty and showy Saint-Aubin 2012 from Francois Carillon, this from his third vintage on his own. There is an intense ripeness to a lot of the 2012's I think. The pinnacle of the Burgs was Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2004, Bonneau du Martray - there are really variable bottles of this wine, entirely down to cork supplier. The estate seems to have a cracking record from 2006 onwards and pre 1995 but in between there is a mix. This bottle, I am delighted to say, was electric, so poised and getting better and better with air, a lovely bit of reduction. One final white is a wine I hope I will keep a few bottles of Que Bonito Cacareaba 2011, Benjamin Romeo as it is a fascinating wine, rich, toasted and juicy. Made from a field blend of old vine fruit in Rioja. It changes more than most wines as it warms up and could almost be served as a red wine that happens to be white.

Stu had dropped a bottle of Duhart-Milon 2004 off with us about a month before so I decided we would have it alongside the Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2004, I know the Carmes well and this wasn't a particularly vibrant bottle of it, a little dull. The Duhart was exactly what you would hope for, some of the iron and savouriness of Pauillac balanced by the ease of the 2004 vintage. A fun pair but the Duhart winning pretty comfortably by a stoppage in the late rounds. Although we moved on to the Sauternes and Port we did dip in and out of the magnum of Cotes du Rhone 2012, Domaine Charvin during the rest of the night and very good it is. I find southern Rhone 2012 to be a little bit of a gem. People don't seem to speak about it but I think it is pretty serious.

The Corney & Barrow Sauternes 2010 from a half was delicious, opulent, not overly complex but this and the other half I had over Christmas were both lovely. In many ways the wine I had been most looking forward to was the Noval 1963. A gift from a kind customer and friend. It was interesting as well as just lovely in quality. Really quite light in colour, think aged tawny, when poured through muslin as the cork disintegrated. The wine grew in depth and structure with air which I've not come across. It was always fruited with delicate sweetness and just a joy to drink. I've had a few bottles of mature port ('63/'66/'70) recently and it really id pretty joyous stuff...a missed opportunity by many.

A fun evening with friends as we saw in 2016...

Mr B liking the Noval 1963

and Stu too

The whole gang...

Wines in Wales

I am very late in posting this but there we go!

Our annual family trip down to Wales (back in May!) for a week is always great chance to try lots of bottles especially with my "Cousin -in-law" Cynan who loves his wine, having contributed lots of the below, and cooks amazing food!

24-5-14

CNDP VV Blanc 2011, Tardieu-laurent

Lovely, a bit of oak but "in check", richness of white fruits and a little sweet toffee, so drinkable.

Les Carmes-Haut-Brion 2004

Good nose or classical cedar, black fruit and gravel…the palate is a little dry now and a little foursquare. The sweetness does not last. having had this a few times I am ever so slightly disappointed by it's balance now.

25-5-14

La Roche Blanche 2013 Muscadet Cotes de Grandieu sur lie, Domaine Herbauges

Very taut and mineral, white fruit may be but mostly stones and acidity. The screw cap closure I think makes it even more exaggerated would be interesting if decanted. Decent though.

Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2007, Vincent Dampt

In good shape with an unctuous nutty (unsalted) texture. Needs food really as there is a slight side of oxidation without it.

CNDP VV Blanc 2011, Tardieu-laurent

Lovely again, a bit of oak but in check, richness of white fruits and a little sweet toffee, so drinkable. Very good with cheese and still balanced at a warmer temperature. Fond of this!

Chorey-Les-Beaune Piece du Chapitre 2004, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Nice wine with elegance and not at all forced, slightly lifted green/red fruit, not amazing but a decent 2004.

Chorey-Les-Beaune Piece du Chapitre 2007, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

A more decadent fruit than the 2004, more black amongst the red, good and enjoyable, nicely balanced, I like this.

Les Carmes-Haut-Brion 2004

The end of the bottle from the day before, a little drier but still ok.

Barbaresco 2006, Produttori del Barbaresco

Lovely, gentle for 2006 with a nice fragrance, there is the grip you expect of 2006 but it is not a waste to drink now.

Barolo Brunate 2006, Marcarini

Quite a silky wine for a 2006, so more "Brunate" in style than it is 2006 in style. Good texture and not pronounced tannin. I liked this also.

26-5-14

Ardeche Chardonnay 2012, Louis Latour

Fine, a little oxidative and flabby but decent enough, unexciting.

Passopisciaro 2006 Double magnum

Crunchy red bruised fruit, a lovely nervousness and life, lifted, not light in flavour but not dense in texture. Great minerality and if anything even better on day 2. You can tell the Contrada’s (the single vineyard sites that until 2008 went into the generic wine) are in here.

27-5-14

Que Bonito Cacareaba 2004, Benjamin Romeo

Oranges and Melons with delicious unctuousness. There is some acidity but it is very soft, almost a creamy texture with some botrytis. Entering a slightly lifeless stage. my last bottle gone, always meant to leave one for decades but...

Barolo Villero 2007, Brovia

Understated lightness as though they have picked very early to avoid the heat, there is almost a spritz, it was fine to drink but I am not sure it’s quite right. Second time I have had it and I remain unconvinced.

Passopisciaro 2006 Dmag

Again and getting better if anything!

Recioto della Valpolicella 2010, Tesauro

Lots of dark cherry and a few forest fruits then intensity of viscosity and chocolate, long, intense but not without refinement and class. Good.

28-5-14

Que Bonito Cacareaba 2004, Benjamin Romeo

The last little bit - good!

Barolo Cannubbio 2007, Francesco Rinaldi

Quite dense and structured, not too warm. There is focus and I really think this estate did well in 2007.

Recioto della Valpolicella 2010, Tesauro

Good again not oxidised at all despite half open bottle from previous evening.

29-5-14

El Aprendiz "Albarinblanco" 2013, Leyenda del Paramo - Very clean and focussed, crisp and zippy, almost Gruner like! makes you hungry! 

Le Rocchette Barbera d"Asti 2010, Tenuta Olim Bauda - good wine this with that tell tale cool(er) vintage Barbera cleanness, has precision and very food friendly...

I am sure there are bottles I have missed!

Trade at Goodman...many a magnum...

A bit of a trade gathering, ten or so of us, met at Goodman in Maddox Street for a friday lunch, with a Gin and Tonic done it was time for the wine to flow. Everyone was in generous form so amazingly a couple of wines were not opened.
The kick off was Krug 1996 with amazing richness and bready, yeasty depth at the same time as citrus acidity, impressive and clearly going to be quite something in older age. It is a very "Krug" Krug, refined but uncompromising...quite something.
As everyone got there orders organised, or not, we started on the whites Que Bonito Cacaraeba 2009 from Benjamin Romeo good, rich, acidity a little pronounced a rounded and generous wine. The tempura prawns, a bit of a signature dish, went spectacularly with the Ramey Chardonnay 2007 Hyde Vineyard. The wine had great weight, lovely richness but with freshness and lift, shortbread, generous and focussed too, moreish. The next wine was a bit of a mystery as nobody knows what the vintage was/is. Wachenheimer Fuchsmatel Scheurebe Spatlese, Helmers & Sohnne, there were two bottles, both slightly different but good, rich but also with hints of orange peel and strangely, nettles, nose far better than palate but both interesting.
A clean and precise bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2010 from Beaucastel followed, it was very good, very young, some waxy weight but it will only put on more weight in time, promising. Interestingly we had a different vintage, 2010 of Que Bonito Cacaraeba from Benjamin Romeo, it was fresher and more complete than the 2009 in my opinion. This is a wine that will last and age and improve a lot.
The steaks were on their way now so we moved to the reds, first up Chambertin Clos de Beze 2004, Groffier. A lovely wine now, with development to come. The fruit is red and black compote with a little creamy texture and some cheesecloth. The vintage is one that people like to knock to be honest, I feel that while it is not a stunning vintage or one that will make old bones those producers who have not forced things have made good and charming wines with fruit and good acidity, this is a good example and a good wine.
Ramey Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 in magnum was up next as a nice slab of meat arrived. Not quite as striking as the Ramey Chardonnay but good, balanced and savoury rather than sweet.
The "lightest coloured red of the day" award certainly went to Passopisicario 2009 in magnum made by Andrea Franchetti on Sicily from Nerello Mascalese. It was a lovely elegant wine, delicate even, the colour an almost translucent raspberry.
I have to say that from here the notes dried up, I do remember the magnum of Montebello 1997 from Ridge being lovely, rich but elegant which is not easy to do. Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon 1995 from magnum was poised and at a lovely stage, very easy to drink. Willamette Valley, Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008, Shea Wine Cellars was a little confected although my palate by now was not at it's best.
The "big bottle of the day" award went to a Jeroboam of Chateauneuf du Pape 1978, Mont-Redon which was a little muted and "whiffy" to start but settled out as a nice medium weighted mature wine with a little spice and a good balance. And so with the table emptying one last wine Coutet 1971 was served. I have had a few 1971 Sauternes and this is a good one, not over the top, elegant and charming but also serious. It was a terrific lunch!

The Tempura prawns are wonderfully meaty!

Ahh yes!