Soldera 1981-2006 courtesy of Vinous

This was a brilliant Vinous dinner tasting on April 27, 2016 led by Antonio Galloni, it was surely one of the most historically significant vertical tastings of Gianfranco Soldera’s Brunellos ever staged. It followed a similar format to the incredible Monfortino Magnums 1970-2006 event also hosted by Vinous at Maze. The menu, below, was expertly put together by Executive Chef Matt Pickop with the service orchestrated by Head Sommelier Arnaud Bardary.

In a point made by Antonio at both events the food was deliberately non Italian. This being the case as the wines should be seen in the overall context of superb wines rather than "just" Italian wines.

I know these wines well and was so very excited about this great dinner. A few other posts on the wines and the people (person!) behind them can be found here:Visits to Case Basse and experiences with the wines.

We started the evening with a glass of the Salon 2004 - my write-up of the Launch - which always sets the scene well, a little saline, nicely poised and almost in Grand Cru Chablis in taste profile.

Menu

Amuse Bouche

Cumbrian Beef Tataki, Smoked Ponzu

Roast Turbot, Orzo, Mussels, Saffron Sauce

Duck Breats, Truffle, Endives, Chanterelle Mushrooms

Saddle of Herdwick Lamb, Spiced Aubergine, Raw Vegetables

Selection of Cheeses

Flight 1 - The Early Years: Most of the wines were opened in the afternoon, Antonio did wait though, until just about an hour before dinner for the 1981 and 1987. He thought the wines might be a little delicate but he needn't have worried. All these four wines came from the very same vineyard - Intistieti. There are two vineyards - Intistieti and Case Basse but you can drive yourself mad trying to get 100% on top of what goes where and when. Essentially, nowadays, there is one wine. The best place for more info is this bit of the Vinous site.

1981 - Lovely colour, lighter on the rim and browner at the core. A little grainy volatility. Bright fresh, ferrous and opulent all that the same time. Vibrancy always there, elegant, gentle palate, a little ginger note too, great start. Has no right to be this good really.

1982 - More even colour from rim to core here but overall a shade lighter. More degraded nose, more bricky, more mature Nebbiolo-like to my mind. Lovely lively acidity, moreish finish and repays time in the glass. Very proper and complete.

1987 - Good, firmer colour. A little woodier, though not from wood itself, there is elegance, a lighter more fragile palate. Given the year this is superb. I think I may have had a slightly less clean glass that my neighbour whose glass showed a little more. On an evening of 100's of glasses this is bound to happen.

1988 - Transparent, slight bovril colour but bright. Exuberantly brilliant nose, high toned with a hint of "fishermans friends" (which I love). Extravagant, eucalyptus, resinous, has a medicinal concentration, herbal, an element here reminds me of Chinato. Just wonderful.

Flight 2 - Sleeper Vintages: I always love to see some younger vintages in these sorts of tastings as it really adds perspective. The 2006 comes later. The 2007 is minute and the 2008 and 2009 have not been bottled for very long.

2000 Riserva - A little whiff of volatility but it passes. Redder core in colour terms. Only a dash of colour change on the outer rim. This is airy, breezy, saline and juicy all at the same time. There is richness on the palate that contrasts, but doesn't clash with, the nose. Terrific.

2003 Riserva - Colour like the 2000 but may be a shade redder still. Berry fruit and a leathery animal undertone. There are some herbs and good richness. You don't feel the heat of the growing season but there is a sense of smaller more intense berries. This is elegant as well as quite bold, delicious and nicely decadent.

2005 Riserva - This is from Intistieti only. The fruit from Case Basse went into Pegasos. There is a pale yet vibrant colour here. There is a distinct note that I have often found on the 2006 as well and it is of washed beef and/or carpaccio - it is a very distinct thing, I like it, it's like a meaty salinity. Then there is a strawberry fruit character which makes you think of fresh and lovely pinot noir. The weightless elegance is quite something as is the sweetness. I feel this will gain weight and intensity and is incredibly promising.

Flight 3 - The Mid 1990s: This flight was a tasting in itself...

1993 Riserva - This is a vintage that Gianfranco Soldera likes very much for drinking now. A superb colour then a stony minerality on the nose and then vibrancy. The palate has some grip but also a linear focus. The texture is then more rich with an almost toffeed edge. Just lovely.


1994 Riserva - Monica Soldera (Gianfranco's daughter) is a massive fan of this vintage for now. This has good colour from core to rim. It is slightly herbal, very fine with a gentle persistence, it gained weight and structure with time and is something of a hidden gem.

AG decided at the last minute to add the "Case Basse" Riserva next to the "Intistieti" Riserva for the purposes of comparison. The bottles can be seen above. This is not done today despite the fact that the wine is still bottled botti by botti and essentially what the above labels show is what happens now just without the identification.

1995 Riserva Intistieti - Translucent yet rich, darker colour. A fuller palate than many so far, a richer more masculine wine. There is a balancing savoury side of leather and a little mellow tobacco.

1995 Riserva Case Basse - This is also a richer wine than many but not with the fruit intensity of the Intistieti bottling. There is a lightly more pronounced secondary side. Good.

1996 Riserva - Very clear if developed colour. The nose has a soy element to it but with sweetness, a wine of degraded brown sweetness rather than red fruit. This is strict and very 1996 in character, masculine but a man in a suit not casual clothes. Sweetly savoury and very moreish...super.

Flight 4 - Reference Points: I got myself in a right old mess trying to score the wines in this whole dinner. I gave up in the end. In this flight everything was 18.5 out of 20 and above. Staggering quality

1997 Riserva - Good mid colour, degraded sweetness and richness. Lovely decay but without any premature ageing. Extravagant rich palate with good grip and a red fruited character coming through. White pepper shows too. Wonderful.

1999 Riserva - So classically brilliant. Meaty, good colour, like the cold washed meat of the 2005. Savoury and masculine with a bold yet totally resolved structure. A big chap! There is a dash of saline to the finish, intense, serious and nicely uncompromising. 

2001 Riserva - Slightly lighter colour, good clarity, so complete, very special. Not that extrovert but so balanced so moreish. This is grippy and serious, a wine demanding more time but with so much to give, almost muted but showing enough. Serious.

2004 Riserva - Richer fuller colour. Outlandishly vibrant red fruits, washed meat, berries and intense freshness, so gorgeous that it is hard to write a note for this. What's not to like. So full yet so focused, so fruited yet so intense. Immensely good.

Flight 5 - The Icons: The title here implies we might not have had any icons yet which frankly is ludicrous and we'd had at least 5!

Why the two 1983's? Well, to quote AG directly, baring the bits in brackets "In 1983, Soldera bottled two Brunellos - one a straight Brunello (Stainless steel and with temperature controlled), the other a Riserva (traditional production) - that were essentially essays on different approaches to vinification. We tasted them both, from magnum."

1983 magnum - Fullish colour and delicious nose, decent richness but also a toastiness. Some good grip, a savoury side too. I put that it has a slightly less complete feel but scored it highly (18+?) as it is clearly a very good wine. 

1983 Riserva magnum - Fuller, richer colour, a little fuller of fruit too, more depth to it but may be not the precision of the non Reserva.

1990 Riserva - This is thought to be the first vintage with the Case Basse in it as well as Intistieti. It is a wine I have had once before and and whilst labeling a wine as one of the all time greats is dangerous I think it is almost impossible not to with this wine. There is a savoury sweetness and a weightless intensity that makes this special even in this stunning company. I firmly feel the 1999, 2001, 2004 and 2006 and possibly several others are as brilliant and potential peers but will they do what this wine has done? This has fruit, darker than many, saline from seaweed, degraded tobacco and soy, intensity and elegance. Wonderful.

2006 Riserva - AG commented that "The 2006 is a rock star" and I totally see where he is coming from. It is the Soldera wine I know, comfortably, the best. For me it is the best single example of how wonderful, and different from what many people think, Sangiovese can be. It does have the wet meat note as well as both red (always been there) and darker (just appearing) fruits. There is richness but also lift, the savoury side will come later. Persistence, drive and elegance are the watch words here as ever.

Conclusions:
I came to this dinner with high expectations (always dangerous) but a possible feeling that the older wines may be a little hit and miss and that the younger wines would be where the excitement lies. I think the overall consistency and balance was staggering. The mature wines were a delight. The wines produced since 1999 are so incredibly brilliant though that I can't help but think that this estate is still evolving and is still so clearly on the up. This is born out by the fact that the two vineyards, which run up against each other, are amongst the most monitored and studied of any anywhere.

Brilliant - well done Vinous and more than well done Gianfranco...

Amuse bouche

Cumbrian beef tataki, smoked ponzu.

Roast turbot, orzo, mussels, saffron sauce.

Duck breast, truffle, endives, chanterelle mushrooms.

Saddle of Herdwick lamb, spiced aubergine, raw vegetables.

The "Lads" at The Greenhouse…

So a gathering of what - for reasons of confidentially - I seem now to refer to as "The Lads". The Greenhouse was the venue and sadly we were five not seven but with Nobby shuffling the deck winewise we had a hell of a line-up.

Salon 1997 is always a good place to start, it is showing a lovely balance, Lemon, citrus with a little shortbread, good life, it has a slightly saline edge...very long future ahead but it is no waste to drink now. Interestingly the sommelier served it decanted in the Zalto white wine glass…both of those things showed the wine well at this stage. The menu had been prepared specially, you don't get 2 stars easily...

Canapes

Beef, Avocado, Wild Mushroom

Cornish Crab

Mint jelly, Cauliflower, Granny Smith apple, Curry

Veal Head

Mint, Peas, Herbs

Native Lobster

Potimarron, Grapefruit, Vanilla, Tarragon

Dover Sole

Beetroot, Red Wine, Vadouvan spices

Chicken

Erbette, Snail, Wild garlic

Strawberry

Thyme, Sesame, Milk

So now it was time for the line up to go up a notch. We did the three whites one by one and blind, only blind for a few moments that is.

Meursault 1er Cru Les Boucheres 2011, Chateau Genot-Boulanger is a wine I do not know at all. I'll be totally honest and say I had an inkling towards white Bordeaux so fresh was this. That was never going to be likely but "nothing ventured" and all that. The freshness was from a nettley "good greenness". This looks to have a good future and when it was revealed as Meursault it made me think of the tight, mineral styles like Roulot, nice wine.

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2011, Francois Carillon was the bottle I took, only the second time it has been made. Francois Carillon as an estate being first made (fully) in 2010. This is from a tiny 0.045 hectares. It was good to have it after another 2011, it opened up more and more with time as you'd expect. There is a slight lemon sherbet element but also some of the saline quality, clearly it is a "nipper" now but has a good future and it was fun to keep re-visiting it. Pretty classy.

Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 1986, Ramonet was so obviously much more mature, it was in now way tired, it was unctuously classy and moreish, there were elements of toffee and butterscotch but always with a drive and liveliness, really lovely, propper breadth too, it wasn't afraid to be Batard, full and quite masculine, the empty glass smelt like a sweet wine. Splendid.

The three Burgundian reds were served in turn so that we could look at each but also look at them together:

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 1993, Rousseau was absolutely delicious straight "off the bat" with red black fruits and a soft persistence, a lovely freshness went through the wine that kept it lively and airy, rose petals showed and a delightful balance. Very good indeed, very 1993 and very Pinot.

Chambertin Grand Cru 2001, Rousseau was every bit as good as I have dared hope. My note reads: Orangey tang and delicious, delicious brooding rich red and black fruit, a "puppy", very primary with a stunning palate but delicious now, does have a savoury edge, cheese and smokiness, love this...  

Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 2001, DRC - followed the Rousseau (not easy) brilliantly, lots of flavours, good fruit but also herbs, pencil shavings, less obviously so young, a little spice and herbs again, the some power too, graphite and just a dash of white pepper. Very complex.

It was a truly glorious trio, just what those two producers and Burgundy are, and should always be, about - complexity and drinkability. We then had two pairs of Bordeaux. It was one of those splendid occasions when nobody was bothered about a "winner", a real treat all round.

Magdelaine 1990 and Margaux 1985 formed the first flight. For the Magdelaine I had "Ink-like colour, showing well, bold, iron-like, savoury but with enough sweetness, rich, beefy, stocky, then dates, lovely" it is certainly on the savoury side as Magdelaine always is. A magnum of the Magdelaine 1985  was a real treat recently and much as I understand the reasons why it no longer exists in its own right (it nows forms a large part of Belair-Monange), I do feel it is a shame. We were a long way off with guesses, being on the other bank of the river but I am never unhappy to get this wrong (with a few exceptions). The Margaux was splendid also, a little drier and more reserved initially it somehow it had a bolder core and then became more lifted and aromatic, really lovely.

With "lunchers" energy not even starting to dip we were into the last pair of reds Cheval Blanc 1981 and Cheval Blanc 1959. I have to say I count my lucky stars every time I get to drink these older wines, the 1959 I really mean by that, when knowing they are from good cellars and are genuine. The way things are these days we would (at work) sadly run a mile from the wines from 1945, 1947, 1955, 1959 and 1961. But first the 1981. This was "forest floor" in character but then really quite rich, it was a quite degraded but sweet "naughty" smell, fresh with good lift, a confusingly good Cheval, (fortunately) I can't remember what I though it was. And so to the Cheval Blanc 1959, I always find these very good but fully mature wines difficult to describe but then that is the very nature of complexity. My jottings say "sweet, savoury, leathery, tobacco and soy, more soy, more sweetness, dates, amazing savoury texture, more ferrous than frivolous". It really was quite something, I think I guessed 1955 because the few of those I have had have the same energy and colour.

The final wine of lunch was de Fargues 1986, it was the only wine of the day that may be didn't quite show its full potential, it was still good and not faulty but it lacked energy, there were bruised dried apricots, lots of rancho richness and lots of the brûlée character.

What a lunch it was, wonderful wine, lots of great chat and the chance to look at some try great wines and wines that might go to even more special places…thanks as ever to "The Lads".

nb My only regret is that there is no picture of any labels or a line-up shot, for this I blame Ronaldinho fully, he distracted me…how is another story...

When will I ever learn…I didn't need this delicious Negroni….

Monte Bello Dinner 1981-2005 at "you know where"

This was a really cracking dinner. A motley true of mostly die-hard Zucca-ites gathered to taste (drink!) through a lovely array of Ridge Monte Bello and one other treat all provided by our splendidly generous host - Mr Ross! I also have to say many of the facts and background on Ridge and the wines below was also courtesy of the very same man.

John, one of Sam's chefs at Zucca produced a great menu which included many old school Zucca (or Malting's for those that remember) classics.

Vitello Tonnato

Tropea Onions, Burrata, Hazelnuts & Basil

Mushroom and Castelmagno Frittata

Grilled Sirloin, Bagna Cauda & Celery

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Spinach, Stichelton & Walnut Lasagna

Pappardelle, Pigs Cheek Ragu

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Slow Roast Lamb Shoulder

Bobby beans, Anchovy and Tomato with Yellow Polenta and Salsa Verde

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Marmalad Tart, Sourdough Ice Cream

Now to the wines:

Monte Bello is located in the Santa Cruz Mountains, at an elevation of 2300 feet, on the Monte Bello ridge. The first wines were grown here in 1892 but it was when a group of Stanford University students bought the land in 1959 that the serious winemaking started. 1962 was the first vintage of Monte Bello. Paul Draper, former Decanter "Man of the Year" and greatly respected winemaker, joined in 1969. The defining elements of the site/wine are that it is made at serious altitude, from Bordeaux grapes, on a limestone-based soil from low-yielding vines by one of the greatest wine-makers there is. It's the sort of combination that works.

We started the evening with 2009 Estate Chardonnay as an aperitif. There was no Monte Bello Chardonnay in 2009 so all the fruit went into Estate bottling. The main reason for this was that drought early during vintage then late spring rains so yields were just too low to make both Monte Bello and Estate Chardonnay. There is a savoury edge to the wine that doesn't entirely match the quite high octane Californian Chardonnay nose and slightly sweet palate. I didn't mind the wine but nor did it excited me. Better with food though. 15.5-16

Then onto the business of the reds which were served in pairs:

2005 Monte Bello - 70% Cab Sauv, 22% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 2% Cab Fr. 13.4%. The Lowest yields in 10 years due to rain and wind. The vintage as a whole was saved by a warm summer. A mellow cassis nose with tannins on the palate that are a touch grainy. The fruit character is a little sharp but fresh and bright. Good to enjoy now and will keep. Given the trickiness of the vintage this is good. 16-16.5

2001 Monte Bello the 40th Anniversary Vintage - 56% Cab Sauv, 36% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot. 14.2%. A cool and rainy vintage. Early spring gave moderate heat then hot spikes, which helped Merlot followed. Quite muted on the nose in a serious sort of way, lots of depth and complexity, multifaceted. It demands more time. Definitely black fruit but a very complex combination of different types. Long. 18  

Tropea Onions, Burrata, Hazelnuts & Basil

1997 Monte Bello - 85% Cab Sauv, 8% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc. 12.9%. The growing season started badly with a very rainy winter, ultimately saved by long, mild spring. Overall the earliest vintage since 1962. All in all a tricky vintage. A slightly degraded wine in a sort of "Mitjavile" style. There is a opulence there but nicely counter balanced by the saline side. It has a quite lush texture, good to enjoy now. 17 

1996 Monte Bello - 80% Cab Sauv, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot. 13.2%. 

A very stormy year with 40% less production. Interestingly Paul Draper feels this is one of the best of the ‘90s. I was impressed, has a nice gritty grip, poised with good focus and more clarity than the 1997. A young wine even now but not overly tight. A little way to go to its peak, very promising. 18

1992 Monte Bello - 80% Cab Sauv, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot. 13.4%. Good weather and a quite rare "bumper" crop which therefore lead to a savage selection (40%). This caused quite a stir at the table as it was served with the 1991. Both wines are very impressive. There is a quite saline, seaweed "stink" that disappeared with one swirl of the glass…then there was a purity of fruit with a real lift, good acidity, very fine, something about it reminded me of the 1996. Serious but very easy to enjoy as well. 18.5

1991 Monte Bello - 85% Cab Sauv, 10% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. 13.1%. Pretty much "drought" which was then followed by lots of rain. Another large yield and an even more strict selection required (50%). Very fine. Where the 1992 reminded me of the 1996 this reminds me of the 2001. Just love the texture which is a way of saying it's bloody good but I don't quite have the words to say why. It just works and makes you smile. On the savoury side too may be. It's NOT a competition but just shaded the 1992 on this night. 18.75-19 

John and the Lamb Shoulder

1985 Monte Bello - Not totally sure of blend but very high Cab Sauv. 13.1%. A hot year with very ripe fruit so strict selection (45%) for different reasons than above. Merlot was little used as it was on the "flabby" side. There is fully maturity here, soy and asian spice, lean but lovely with herbs and cedar. Very good, very complete. 18.25

1981 Monte Bello - 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot. 12%. A good vintage which Paul Draper says, even today, is one of the most ‘Bordeaux’ like wines made at Ridge. This bottle was good, fully mature, may be a tad over mature but with a saline quality and a precise acidity that kept it lively and enjoyable. 17

We did have one other Ridge wine which Mark kindly opened for us - Geyserville Zinfandel 1992 - which was very generous and fascinating. It was though, sadly, on the vegetal side and a little like jam that wasn't sweet. Colour still good and I am sure that there is  case for letting Zinfandel from this great team "mellow" but may be 22 years is beyond mellow? who knows?

We weren't, however, fully done for quality wines.

1905 Verdelho, d’Oliveira - This was stunning. I have always loved Madeira and I am going out there in September, this made me even more excited about that prospect. If I had to use three words for this (and I don't it's just that I don't have the words to describe Madeira fairly) they would be - Salty, dates, acidity - now for those that read my ramblings a bit they will realise why, for me that Combination really works…

I left, we all left, with smiles on faces and happily full bellies…can't ask more than that. Well done Zucca, well done Mr Draper and Thank you Mr Ross 

Otto's!

Halifax, he's appeared on here a good few times, was in town last Wednesday so it seemed silly to miss the chance to grab a quickish lunch at Otto's in the Gay's Inn road. He kindly insisted on bringing most of the bottles but I managed to squeeze in a red. The opener was Dom Perignon 1996 which is in a beautiful spot right now if you ask me, just starting to develop a little on the finish but still light in colour, vibrant and refreshing with a little lemon sherbet. I am sure it is going to age wonderfully but if you haven't had any and own a few cases then definitely get going as it's lovely now.
The white was then served blind but I had an advantage over Paul (Marus) as I was almost certain it was going to be a white Bordeaux. I was a little way out with the vintage plumbing for late 80's when actually it was Laville Haut Brion 1995 but it was good. Complex, evolved, quite tropical but also waxy. The finish was a little short would be the only negative, it needs drinking in the next 2-3 years to be at it's best I would say.
Another blind wine followed and this time we were clearly in Bordeaux, Halifax professed that this was not the best bottle of this wine he has had but I liked it anyhow, very much evolved "Lunchtime Claret" but with enough life and acidity to make it very pleasant. We were clearly on the left back and Paul and I both plumbed for St.Julien and later 80's but it was in fact Pichon-Lalande 1981. As with the Laville I see no point in keeping it further but it's a lovely drink now, very mellow and fragrant.
The food was good as ever, we all went for the Crab Ravioli and then Steak. Both were just as they should be. The Final red was a possible case of infanticide but a delicious one at that. Echezeaux 2007, Domaine de La Romanee Conti. 2007 Red Burgundies divide opinion generally some people feeling they are a little weedy and even under ripe at a times, I am far more of a fan and love the pure Pinot freshness and elegance. Yes generally they will not make "old bones" but they are delicious and pure. This was exactly that but with some classy grip and structure underneath. I love drinking great wines when they are just opening up, you get excited about where they are going and you get a strong sense of their personality. We followed the Echezeaux with an 1993 Icewine that was clearly a good wine but was ever so slightly corked..a real shame as you could see there was an intensity of sweet ripeness and also a very crisp acidity. A delicious lunch all round.