Rafael Gonzalez Coronas Extra & Punch Robusto (Swiss RE)

After a couple of weeks off the cigars I had two smokes I had not had before at the weekend. The first was a fairly recent release of Rafael Gonzalez Coranas Extra which is a Corona Gorda in size (46x143). The look of the stick was very much classic Rafael Gonzalez with a darkish wrapper that never look too oily or rich. The condition and storage had been good and on first lighting it was straight into a nice place, elegant balance is what I look for in RG's. They are never heavy and this got to medium towards the backend but never any more than that and was a perfect mid-afternoon smoke. The size is one that I love, in honesty I’m not a massive fan of going over the 46 gauge. The stick was a fair bit box-pressed, squared-off by being tightly packed in the box, but not to a degree than was irritating though I would always prefer cigars not to be. The dominant flavours were of light milky coffee and tanned tobacco, little or no sweetness and not a cigar that, despite being lighter in weight, I would give to newer smoker. I think this stick was totally ready to smoke, no harshness, but at the same time I think it will be more and more elegant in the medium term. I missed out on buying some of these recently and am regretting it. This specific cigar has been discontinued for some totally ridiculous reason.

The second smoke was both a different size and a different age. It was a Punch Robusto from 2007 that was a designated Swiss Regional Release. Punch does not have a Robusto in its range ordinarily and is not a brand I am that experienced with. This had a lovely white ash that you tend to get more often with tobacco that has more age. The burn was good and surprisingly slow. It was not a remarkable cigar but a good one nevertheless. It reminded me a little of a good Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure No2, it had elements of hay, straw and dry tea. I love trying these new releases, I only wish more and more of them were in the more elegant ring gauges 36-42 but this is no new view. Buy the “thinnies” while you can as “wide is beautiful” seems to be the Habanos SA mantra. It is good to be back smoking after what felt like a boring virus!

Birthday bottles....

The venue for this dinner was "Duvault Blochet Towers" and the guests were Eric "Mr Barolo" Sabourin and his lovely wife Claire and Sam "Zucca" Harris as well as Mrs Duvault Blochet. We started with Salon 1997 which is showing so well at the moment, deliciously Salon but quite forward, classy Blanc de Blancs with a little bit of bottle age, lovely. Then we were on to Sam's two white Burgundies which were both showing well but at the same time splendidly different. Having tasted and decanted them both I thought it was better to go first with the Chevalier Montrachet 2007 from Sauzet. This had a real 2007 hallmark about it, very focussed, youthful but approachable, refined, lemon and lime acid structure, very fine indeed, delicious and it flew down with Mrs DB's Bruscettas. Next up was Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres 2005 from Domaine Leflaive, this also had the stamp of it's vintage on it is that it was ripe and full almost overripe with a tendency to rich nearly exotic fruit and a rich texture. There was a classic Leflaive "struck match" aroma as well, a really good bottle and I would say ready to go now, definitely one to decant.
With the whites done we were now looking at reds to go with my mother-in-laws main course of beef stew and dumplings. Very kindly Eric had supplied two 1975's, Sam as well as my vintage. The first up, and these were both opened decanted and drunk, was Brunello di Montalcino 1975 Castello Poggio alle Mura. 1975 is viewed as a good vintage in Tuscany and this wine still had fruit, lots of acidity too, it was nice but at the end of its life, very enjoyable. The next bottle was something of a revelation, ok you always expect the best from Giacosa red labels, but 1975 is not a fabled vintage in piedmont. The Barolo Bussia Riserva Speciale 1975 was great, real depth and complexity, good fruit and in many ways at a peak, not over it. It got better and better and had real freshness, a wonderful and great surprise. I then thought why not have one more red blind, as well as the end of the whites, with some cheese. I grabbed Contrada Chiappemacine 2009 from Andrea Franchetti's Tenuta di Passopisciaro. A wine of 100% Nerello Mascalese but from a particular Cru. This was a harsh wine to serve blind and the shouts were young red burgundy or Loire Cabernet Franc and both totally justified, it will get better and better but the purity of red fruit is stunning.
Sam's awesome blueberry and almond tart was the end of the meal and went wonderfully with Vin Santo 2004 from Vignamaggio, a good Vin santo with lovely acidity and vibrant marmalade fruits. It had been a night of great wines, even better company and lots of banter...just as it should be.

Otto's: Salon, Laville, Malartic, Mouton and DRC

Luncheon with two friends at Otto’s last Wednesday had been in the diary a little while and was certainly something I was looking forward to. When you are having potentially stunning bottles it is also a little nerve wracking. Fortunately everything showed very well so the nerves were not necessary. 
We started with Champagne Salon 1999 Le Mesnil, served in white wine glasses rather than flutes, serious Champagne should not be too constrained. This was showing really well if oviously very young. It is always a tight and mineral wine but especially so with the 1999. The texture was special. For the Salon devotees out there, and that tends to be most people who have discovered the house, I would say the 1995 and 1997 will offer great drinking while you way for the 1996 and 1999. Anyhow there is a full Salon post coming up soon so more detail there, this showed well. The Grand Cru chablis of Champagnes when young I often think.
From here we moved to two white Bordeaux. This was fascinating, firstly because I like white Bordeaux but secondly because the age and prestige of the two wines was very different. We had the wines side by side but up first was Malartic-Lagraviere Blanc 2005 (Grand Cru Classe de Graves), which is 90% Sauvignon and 10% Semillon. It was in a lovely place, mellowed a bit but still with good acidity starting to get a little richer. Well and truly into the middle stage of development which is as it should be. It had a good long finish. Ripe but not over the top, impressive. The second of the whites was Laville Haut Brion Blanc 1990 (Pessac-Leognan), now called La Mission Haut Brion Blanc. This is the second time I have had this vintage of this wine. It was a little closed on the first pour but did nothing but open out over the next three hours. Both these whites were good with cheese later on. The Laville had the nose of exotic fruit but as with the Malartic it stopped short of being over done. You would have fun with people blind tasting this as the nose suggests sweetness and this is the core point really. I can't remember having a white wine with so much intensity on the nose and a lovely balance of fruit, lanolin and unctuous on the palate but being dry, proper stuff and whilst I wouldn't dream of defending the current release prices of the very few ultra top white Bordeaux I feel their prestigious position is justified and ignored by too many people.
With a cracking mushroom starter and a very generous pre-starter of scallops it was time to accompany my pig's trotter with some red and not just any reds...Mouton Rothschild 1989 was first. To sound completely pompous and I slightly cringe as I write this, the Mouton 1989 was a perfect lunchtime Mouton. My friends agreed and to explain what I mean; it had an exotic and typical Mouton nose, quite high toned, volume turned up, on the plate it had a good hit of initial black red fruit it was not though, profound and was a little light in the middle palate. perfect now, in fact I would say it is one to hedonistically just tuck into now and over the next 3-5 years. I can't see another level of development so drinking it while the nose it stunning and fruit is still there makes sense. The lunch had initially been planned around the next bottle Richebourg Grand Cru 1991, Domaine de la Romanee Conti. It did not disappoint. The wine worked immediately it came into the glass but it also grew in stature and expanded over the next 90 minutes. Delicious red black and slightly bruised fruit but also a savoury edge just arriving, 21 years of age in great for grand cru in my eyes and mind. A wonderfully uncompromising edge about it, "rustic" is too often a negative term but in the world of Grand Crus were a few are a little too polished this had a dash of rustic grace about it. The depth and structure were very much Richebourg. A delicious bottle of wine, still developing and still evolving but if you have more than one bottle definitely a good time to try it...it will not disappoint.

Sharing great bottles with like minded people who just want to enjoy what the best has to offer is one of, probably "the", very best part of the wine trade. This was a cracking lunch, everything worked from the food to the service and most of all the wines and the people!  

Hyde de Villaine at HQ

In the same room in which Aubert de Villaine was awarded “Decanter Man of the year” a couple of years ago we had a great dinner to showcase the wines of Hyde de Villaine. The beginning of this venture came in 2000 when the de Villaine family from Burgundy and the Hyde family of Carneros, California, decided to work together on a family run project in Carneros. Larry Hyde, Hyde Vineyard’s manager, is cousin to Aubert de Villaine’s wife Pamela. Aubert is very well-known in the world of wine as Director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and co-owner of Domaine A&P de Villaine in Bouzeron in Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise. So this combination of very varied skills and experience, has a lot of practicality, logic and most importantly family inspired drive about it. In fact with the exception Stéphane Vivier, the winemaker from Burgundy, the entire organisation is family.

The evening started with a pre-dinner drink of De la Guerra Chardonnay 2009 & 2010 in the drawing room. The De la Guerra is the young vines of the Chardonnay, the style is refined but forward aimed at being accessible early. The 2009 vintage was a cooler one and the 2010 more rich and typical of California. Both drink very well now.
We then went downstairs for dinner and after an introduction from Adam (Brett-Smith) it was time for Aubert to give a little historical insight into the property and for Charles "AJ" Fairbanks to introduce the next pair of wines. But first Charles said that he felt the project was about making "Californian wines with a Burgundian philosophy". The first pair of dinner wines were Hyde Chardonnay 2008 & 2009. Both come from approximately 30year old plots planted from 1979 onwards and interestingly are planted the "wrong way round" i.e north south when the normality of the time was east-west. So the two wines; the 2008 was from a warmer/more normal vintage, it showed lemon shortbread fruit and a savoury yeasty edge to it, rich but not heavy. The 2009 was cooler as a vintage and this shows. It was a real star, a little closed initially on the nose it opened out and shone brightly. Very much a burgundian style, all about the texture and elegant depth, delicious. That pair was matched with braised winter vegetables with roasted chestnut and buttermilk dressing which worked well.

With the main course of Guinea Fowl filled with trompette mushrooms and spinach we had the next pair, namely of Belle Cousine 2007 and 2008. Belle Cousine is named after Pamela de Villaine for reasons that might be obvious from the above. The blend is generally Merlot predominant with the remainder being Cabernet Sauvignon, the specifics of these two are 60%/40% Merlot/Cab for the 2007 and vice versa for the 2008. Charles spoke of the fact that they always look to pick a little earlier than their neighbours as they view the acidity as being very important and also the freshness. This 2007 was lovely, black fruited and balanced, a little tar and an easy structure with good complexity, it will develop well and has elegance as well as full fruit. The 2008 was clearly a "warmer-climate" wine, more forward, rich and opulent. More lush and a little more unctuous too. I asked Charles if there was a little more oak, he said not but that the one year extra of age on the 2007 had allowed the oak to totally integrate. It was a fascinating pairing and the 2007 in particular is a wine I feel the need to own, a perfect "change of pace" wine.
With cheese the Californio Syrah was next, 2006 and 2008 were the vintages. This is the smallest production wine they make and in fact was never planned from the outset but the Syrah they produced was very pleasing so why not? The plot is 15-20 years old. The 2006 and 2008 vintage are similar stylistically in terms of climatic conditions. In introducing the Syrahs Aubert coined a new tasting term, to me anyway, in describing the African market spices he finds in these wines as "souk". There is a combination of production methods here with 2006 and 2008 being made from a combination of both open and closed vat batches. The wines contrasted each other well, the 2006 had a bit of the animal about it with a slight funky stink (in a good way) as only Syrah really can. The 2008 being a purer fruit expression at this stage. Both had an "intensity and an energy" as Aubert put it.
The atmosphere of the evening was great, lively and lots of debate and interest. If I had to take one white and one red away to drink I would go for HdV Chardonnay 2009 and Belle Cousine 2007 for their excellent balance and simple enjoyments. I think it is very fair to say this tiny estate is only just starting to reach where it will go and as a result remains a little under the radar...that in itself is very exciting!

 

Otto's for Luncheon

Last Friday lunchtime I had a good chance to catch up with a customer/friend over a few bottles he kindly wanted to share. I was in for a treat. The venue was Otto's not far from Chancery Lane or Holborn and purveyor of good, mostly French inspired food, always made well and a very positive attitude to wine, good glasses, know how to serve it etc.

Scallop carpaccio

It was to be a meal of two whites and one red. The Whites were both Chardonnays from Mark Aubert in Sonoma Coast. Both whites were from 2010, The Aubert "Ritchie" Vineyard and the Aubert "Lauren Estate" Vineyard. The fact we had Ritchie on the right and Lauren on the left was a sensible decision as the labels are strikingly sameish. Having consulted the notes on the wines it appears both wines are as the names suggest from different locations. Both see largely the same winemaking - harvested at night for freshness, from different blocks (5 for Ritchie & 6 for Lauren), Barrel fermented and then given 11 months in new French oak before 3 months in tank with no fining or filtration before bottling. The later fact was clear as the wines were slighty hazy, something I quite like. So what did they taste like? There were encouraging similarities and differences. Both had quite high alcohol (15.2% I think) but neither showed it. They had a lime an lemon sherbet type fruit but were wines of texture. The differences were in shape as much as anything. The Ritchie was a rounder more lush example, the fruit being almost over-ripe but not quite. The Lauren is a more Burgundian Meursaultesque expression, more savoury, less opulent, all in all a shade classier to my palate. Both good and many of these comments only apply as we tasted both together. A really interesting pair that continued to evolve, certainly of high quality.
The red was back on more familiar ground for me - Barolo Roche Riserva Especial 1974. The bottle was in good condition with a good level. On decanting the wine had a classic old Barolo nose of frazzles and herbs. It then over 20 minutes in the decanter relaxed and became a medium bodied, may be even on the light side of that, elegant and sweet fruited fully mature Barolo. I have had a few older Vietti's now and they seem to have stood the test of time very well, possibly without ever becoming show stoppers.
A rather splendid lunch!

Domaine Trapet at 1776 - 1Lombard Street

1776, the new restaurant at the back of well-known city spot, 1 Lombard Street, played host to a launch of C&B’s newest exclusivity in Burgundy, Domaine Trapet. I say new but we have worked with the domaine for decades it is just that previously we shared the representation. The evening started with Delamotte Brut NV from magnum, one of my preferred ways of starting any evening! With both Jean-Louis and Andrée Trapet joining us for the evening we had 5 wonderful wines ahead of us. We started the meal with Marsannay Blanc 2010 accompanied by Black Truffle Risotto and Parmesan Crisp. Marsannay is a small commune, 220 hectares, but not one to be dismissed lightly, there is real quality here. This wine was first made in 1993 from a 50 acres plot. The style is taut and energetic, the 2010 was tasting and drinking very youthful but there is flesh to be added to the bones. A good bracing start.

Jean-Louis then spoke about how he felt you had to have high density of planting, 12,000 plants/hectare, and old vine rootstocks to really make the most of terroir. Jean-Louis is one of those people you meet from time to time who clearly makes time to think about what and why things need to be done. His summation of wine is based on the idea of  “three meetings” that of soils and vine, grape and vigneron and finally bottle wine and glass (the bit we all love!). He feels that when making wine you have to be aware of all of these stages to get a complete wine. As a taster we now had Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru 2010. Any fear that this would be too young to appreciate disappeared as soon as I put my nose near the glass, the fruit was brilliant, clear, bright and clean, I put “heavily fresh” in my notes. There was real depth but at the same time it begged to be tasted. There was structure there on tasting but it was so easy to drink and enjoyably so. Very fine. This wine was the very first parcel of Grand Cru that the family bought in 1904. Latricieres has a microclimate with a fresh cooling influence. Further adds to my feeling that 2010 is a very very good vintage.

We then had two mature or maturing vintages of the Domaine’s other Grand Crus - Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2003 & Chambertin Grand Cru 2000 – both served with roasted Veal noisette with mixed root vegetables, gratin dauphinoise and crispy leeks. The Chapelle as a vineyard, Jean-Louis commented, has a skinny surface of stones and you have to be very gentle in working it, as a site it blooms and flowers first reflecting it’s warmer situation. The wine had a decadent richness and a slightly degraded “2003esque” nose with a dash of leather and tar. Over the evening it evolved and “freshened up”. Having been harvested in August it is clearly atypical but delicious at the same time. The Chambertin is something very special. As a site; the top is white Marl, the middle well drained and the bottom is deeper. This all adds significant complexity. The 2000 was at a lovely stage, one where it develops in glass. It is just getting into stride, a balance of fruit and savoury, with underlying but graceful power. Very impressive I would never want to decide which of this and the Latricières to own, at such differing stages of life they are both stunning.

Then we had a real rarity at a C&B dinner, a pudding - Apple Tarte-Tatin and vanilla ice cream – with Sporen Gewurztraminer 2008 from the Trapet Estate, Andrée’s family estate, in Alsace. As with Burgundy this is farmed 100% Biodynamically. Sporen is a Grand Cru planted principally with Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris but Trapet actually produce both Gewurztraminer and Riesling. The Sporen Gewurztraminer 2008 was delicious, unctuous and with medium sweetness it was both attractive and serious, went very well with the food and left everyone wondering why “Trapet Alsace” is not better known…it will be!!

If you get the chance to go to 1776 then do, I have focussed on the wines here but the food worked really well and the atmosphere was great! A cracking dinner.

Italy at The Arches

Last friday it was time for an Italian wine lunch at The Arches in Swiss cottage...The well known Harry Gill joined us and as ever Ivana was at the helm and look after us very well. After a glass of the very good balanced and refreshing house champagne - Comte Audoin de Dampierre Brut Grande Cuvee - we settle into our seats for a white with a selection of cold meats. The white in question was a quirky choice but a dam good one (if I say so myself), Langhe Bianco Rossese 2009 from Josetta Saffirio. I have visited Saffirio and it's a modern orientated Barolo producer who makes a great Barbera as well as this delicious, 100% Rossese, white. The style of wine it most reminded us of was north Rhone white, think St.Peray. There was a lovely texture some good white fruit. As the wine went from cold to cool it really showed more and more. When I got back to the office I bought some and also the last bottle of 2008 that was sat stray on the system. Can't wait to try them again.
The steak and thick chips then arrived and obviously it instantly became red wine time. Up first was sadly a rather tired Brunello di Montalcino Pian del Vigne 1997 from Piero Antinori it was hollow and thin of fruit and actually when we re-visited later we felt a tiny bit tainted. Anyway there was lots to get through so on we charged into Barolo Cascina Francia 2005, Giacomo Conterno. If ever you want a top quality Barolo to help explain that Baroli that have balance can be drunk earlier then this is it. About an hour in a decanter and it was singing elegantly, it will continue to grow and develop but is a picture of poise now. I am seriously biased mind you. To follow the Barolo we were back to Brunello with Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 1999, Casanova di Neri. A modern style of Brunello from a very fine vintage. It was at a lovely stage with some development but still good fruit. Savoury richness has replaced any obvious new oak coating. The texture was rich but in no way out of balance. A wine on it's plateau and a lot of fun to drink.
It was now time for Mr Gill to delve into his box of tricks and serve us 2 wines blind the first sadly was very tired but also an abject lesson in going with your gut instinct not trying to second guess the server of the wine. Despite it having seen better days we had a go at naming the wine. I went for early 70's Tuscany which is irritating as there was a frazzle like character that can only come from old Nebbiolo but I didn't have the courage of my convictions it was - Barolo Reserva Especial 1969, S.A.S Cerequio. I have had one of two 1969 wines from Piedmont and from what I have heard (borne out in my couple of bottles) that Barbaresci seem to be better than the Baroli. The next wine stumped us all due to its wonderful condition. We were all in Bordeaux and the left bank too but I think I went for the oldest and I was only at 1995. The wine was medium to full bodied, in wonderful harmony, very classically St.Julien on reflection (I think I had said Pauillac) it was Gruaud Larose 1985. If you get the chance to try it then do, great wine. The next wine was not blind and took us to the southern hemisphere - Block ‘3’ Pinot Noir 2010, Felton Road - the first Felton Road I have had actually. It was deliciously fruited, soft but interesting and a very good awakening. Not on the sweet side which for me is a very good thing. I look forward to trying more of their wines.
I almost to left without trying the final wine which would have been a big mistake. It was Passopisciaro Bianco Dolce 2007 from Andrea Franchetti in Sicily. It is technically a passito produced from a blend of many white grape varieties (none of which I know the names of). The grapes were tied on the cellar beams at Tenuta di Passopisciaro to dry for four to five months before extracting minimal amounts of the remaining concentrated juice. A striking, almost luminous, golden amber in colour, it has an immediate wow factor. The nose is extraordinary, a complex blend of savoury and sweet aromatics. Unctuous, honeyed, a decadent, opulent and silky mouthful. This wine is a totally unknown quantity in terms of "drinking window" but that hardly matters as this was the last bottle I know of!!
A cracking way to spend an afternoon!