September Slumber? Juicy wines.....

September is never the month it threatens to be for some reason, credit card bills and that "back to school feeling" may be. Trade has been good but not exciting. Cecily in HK has a big launch tasting coming up which has been booking up fast - great news.

There have been a series of tastings in the last few days which has meant great bottles to try.

Dom Leflaive P-M Village 07 - stunning, complex, rich yet pure a stonking bit of burgundy value. Just my sort of wine.

Corton GC 2001 Bonneau du Martray - drinking perfectly from now on, red fruits combine well with good soft structure and a lovely minerality.

Clos de Tart 2006 - Big, full, masculine but with charm, all encompassing yet "slick" structure...will last and last and be superb, a special treat.

CNDP (Chateauneuf du Pape) Cuvee Felix 2006, Versino - The more Rhone 06's I have the more I like them, this could fool you into think it was "ready to go" as the fruit on the nose is bright, lively and delicious but then you realise the structure on the palate and it take on a whole new level of seriousness...with food now you would be ok but this in 5+ years will be a real treat.

Roc de Cambes 2004 - Juicy, slightly tarty and a real pound for pound champion, great anti-snob wine from the cotes de bourg that, served blind, causes many of the big names of Bordeaux a problem or two.....

Trotanoy 1999 - A wine I have had a few times and a good "proper Claret" for drinking now. This was the only wine that will have been better yesterday than now.

After this little array we looked at the 2008 Chablis range from Vincent Dampt (I am unashamedly the self-appointed chairman of his fan club) and compared some (Vaillons & Les Lys) of the 08's to the 07's. Cote de Lechet 08 was corked..another is on the way.

Les Lys 07 - good, tight and structured, not giving much away, I won't drink mine for 2 years 16-17
Les Lys 08 - taut, but fuller than 07, minerla but approachable very good, will buy 17-18

Vaillons 07 - fatter than Lys 07 but still tight, a sleeper, 3 years needed? 17

Vaillons 08 - one of the best 1er Cru Chablis I have tasted at this stage and instantly brilliant, as case to drink soon and a case for 3+ years, 18+

Bougros 08 - From Maison Dampt (Vincent and his brother) from grapes they buy rather than their own vines. Richness from some oak (not sure of the type, new/old etc yet) but not in a cloying way just in a "needs it way", very good wine and more Burgundy than Chablis if that makes sense.

Tomorrow Mr Bird gets married and Mr Eddleston ventures to our/the sister Champagne houses of Salon & Delamotte (250yrs old next year).

on yer bike....

Why is it so hard to title a blog entry without giving in to cliches?

2009 everywhere (ok all over France at least) is looking brilliant...this isn't really an entry about wine......

At C&B we have a lot of cyclists but which I mean people who have road bikes and cycle to work and back and like the idea of doing a bit more. I'm not quite sure why we have so many, something to do with exercise justifying the increased alcohol intake or the crap London traffic, but any way we do. So this got a few of us talking and now an idea has been born, amazingly without any alcohol in the system at the time.

The idea: Cycle from Champagne to Chateauneuf (let's say 450miles) in a four, possibly five, days. Stopping at (and staying with) producers who we represent. Haven't asked any of them yet but I don't want details getting in the way just now.

Who: Me, Fraser (Senior sales, Suffolk living Rhone freak, father of three with a blemished travel record at best), James (On trade manager, cyclist, windsurfer and our only technical bod).

Logistics: Hoping to delegate this one! actually my father in law and his Land Rover are a distinct possibility. Logistics being important when you can't carry much on a bike (especially when doing 100 miles a day!) and you're staying somewhere different each night. Will need to get help from our friends in the buying team to makes sure we can stay with the producers we'd like to but I'm sure we can charm our way round that one!

Potential problems: Navigation, injury, logistics, fitness (lack of), drinking too much(wine)/not enough (water), arguing, weather, blogging, twittering etc as we go.....going to stop now as don't want to focus on this area

When: May or June 2010 - only problem being that this is when the Bordeaux 2009 (very good..see top of page) is released and being sales people we don't like to miss out.....

I think it's all quite exciting but I don't underestimate the miles involved. I've done 100m+ three times but never day after day!

It'll (before, during and after) be reported here and on twitter!!

Bon weekend all, time to cycle home......

a long short week

Last week was supposed to be a quick short one (bank holiday and all that) but somehow it became a long one...

Tuesday - Decanter Wine Awards dinner in the evening - with Adam (MD), Davina (marketing manager) and Rebecca (commercial buyer) - was good but when you have the first award at 7.30 and the last at 11.15 it can be a long one. I'll return to awards and their effects another time I guess, mixed feelings really but good to see a few people.

Wednesday - tired after a late night but I'd been looking forward to the day for a while as I was spending it with Giles (London On-trade manager) to have a session looking at each others plans for the respective business streams. Even with nearly 11 years at C&B I've never really got involved in the Restaurant side of things so I guess it was just about time for a bit of education. Managed to cram in lunch at The Luxe (Commercial St) which has just opened (on one floor) will be a good venue when fully operational - bar in the basement and "fine" dining up the top.

Thursday - Tasting of a possible new (and potentially exclusive) agency for C&B - can't say who yet but you'll be the first to know, always an exciting time but especially when the wines hit the spot. Just before the Staff summer party managed to cram in a tasting of the Tattinger Champagne range which was good and not something I have done before - the style in general is very balanced. The Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1998 was a lovely nutty Meursault like Champagne that would be great with food, not a long term keeper I feel but very good now and over the next few years. The Staff party was a good laugh, held at the C&B Bar at Jewry Street - there are supposed to be some photos, will post any interesting ones.

Friday - Release of the latest Giacomo Conterno wines - Barbera 2007 and Barolo Cascina Francia 2005 - I like to think Roberto Conterno (the winemaker, owner, manager) is "the" man in Barolo making "old school" Barolo (i.e. big old barrels for a long time rather than small new oak barrels). I much prefer this more traditional style, Nebbiolo is very different from Pinot Noir in character/taste but it has a similar tendencies to be spoiled by over oaking I think. The other similarity, other than pale colour, is a very good tendency to portray the characteristics of its location i.e. terroir. Friday also saw Kieran Fallon return to the saddle after three years - a very talented jockey and good to see him back.

Saturday - Rugby season really under way, last warm up games before the league starts next saturday. Australia beat the Springboks which generally has to be good for the very young Aussie side. No bets on the racing or Rugby, decided to keep the powder dry!

Sunday....not sure yet that's where I am now! Roast Chicken later so the great Red vs White wine decision to be made.

Some early thoughts on Bordeaux 2009

Ok so it hasn't even been picked yet, but I managed to grab Adam (C&B, MD) on his first day back in the office yesterday to find out how the vintage was looking. Adam visited Christian Moueix in Bordeaux whilst on holiday last week. It has been a good summer generally in South West France (my two weeks at the end of July/beginning of August were certainly good!) but this has continued and the raw materials (the grapes!!) are looking good. The days have been warm and sunny (light being amazingly important as well as heat), mostly between 26 & 34 degrees. None of the savage heat of 2003 but otherwise ideal. harvesting, at this stage, looks like it will be early (mid september ish). The production/yield/crop levels look good too, despite some hail earlier in the year, so all in all very exciting...all we need now is the exchange rate to sort itself out and it'd be happy days.

As we get new back from our friends in Bordeaux I will update ou all immediatley!

Peter Sisseck 2008's, rugby, camping & the goss on Bdx 2009

Now this is a real annual highlight...getting to taste the soon to be released 2008 - Pingus, Flor de Pingus and PSi. The offer will be out in late September. My first impressions, wine by wine, below:


Psi 2008 - Only the second Vintage of Peter's new wine from the Ribera, other than Peter's hand in the winemaking there is no direct vineyard link to the Flor and Pingus. The Psi is from different vineyards and growers around the region. The 2008 was rich in colour but also bright. The nose was opulent and generous but in no way OTT. A combination of red and black fruit with a classy layer of creamy toastiness. The palate is full but again with a lightness of touch, almost crisp, fabulous. 17.5-18 out of 20. Drink 2011 - 2015+ (the 2007 is currently available and delicious but this is even better)


Flor de Pingus 2008 - The strength, quality and perception of Flor de Pingus in the fine wine market is finally where it should have been all along. I've always felt it is the wine that actually shows Peter's brilliance. 2008 - Colour, a touch more saturated than Psi but still has a brightness and avoids the boring saturated black colour of over extraction. For such a young wine it has a magnificently complex nose, putting a single fruit to the aroma would be largely pointless. The fruit is more black than red, this isn't supposed to be anything but a "complete" wine and it is already some way to being there. Silky structure and delicious palate that has backbone but is a supportive rather than a "look how big I am" way. This is a serious wine but a fun one too. 18+ Drink 2012 - 2019+ (I think this will be a great wine to try a bottle every year or two from 2012 onwards, the 1999 Flor is delicious now)


Pingus 2008 - The "main man" and a real privilege. Like so often in these scenarios the Flor is easier to judge at this stage, regardless, this is a mighty fine Pingus with a brilliant future ahead of it. A little more viscous than the Flor but otherwise similar in colour. Very serious, complex, dark, dense and brooding nose that combines black fruit with savoury notes. There is chocolate, fruit and spice but not too much of any one characteristic. The initial "hit" on the plate is of redder fruits and a touch of fruity sweetness but then you realise your mouth has been coated in structure, there is no aggression about this but it is clearly a wine for several years time. The palate finishes with a wonderful savoury edge. 18-19+ Drink 2015 - 2020 and well beyond

On other news, life has been busy with the Rugby season not far away and therefore Pre-season training well under way. Anyone interested in playing rugby in London and wanting a club that offers everything from mini rugby to vets (over 35's...not me....yet!!) with a good first and second team and several beers after, then look no further than Finchley RFC http://www.pitchero.com/clubs/finchley/ anyway enough shameless promotion!!

Off to a meeting now about our Harlequins wine sponsorship for the upcoming season....now there is a club in the news!!

Ok so I think we're the best merchant but....

this makes interesting reading.

http://www.simonwoods.com/2009/08/15/merchant-of-vinous-how-to-track-down-a-decent-wine-merchant/

I feel we tick most of the boxes certainly for range, passion and much more......the consumer (hate that word) does not like to be "had" and integirty and straightforwardness is key. We've often joked that we should publich a list of the wines we didn't buy! Little to risky possibly!?

Where's the August tumbleweed?

May be it's because it is my first week back after two weeks holiday camping near Biarritz (more about which later) but the wine market appears not to be as quiet as I would have expected for August in a recession (thank god the phrase "credit crunch" is drying a death). DRC (Domaine de la Romanee Conti) prices on the secondary (post release) market seem to be solid and rising, the "lull" or "dip" in prices of the investment/blue chip wine seems to be over as well - all very welcome news. Quite why the market is decent is never easy to know but I think there is growing confidence in the robustness of wine for investment or a place to keep your money "safe". Anyway August sales figures are a pleasant surprise......long may it continue. Our upcoming offers include the wines of Andrea Franchetti - Tenuta di Trionoro in Tuscany but also from his estate in Sicily.

Holiday was superb, very relaxing, the campsite http://www.colvert.com we go to (this was our 4th visit) is round a lake but only 5mins fro the sea. Days of cycling, swiming, listening to music and chilling, drinks from 6pm (yardarm and all that) lovely food, cards or backgammon, sleep then start again - Heaven! Even managed to fit in some rugby watching (made me feel even less fit for the season ahead) Castres vs Dax....not the greatest game but a decent crowd and lovely atmosphere....the only downside to France this year was the cost, everything the same or more expensive than the UK. As a result the drinking was less exciting than previously when you could get Ok vintages of decent estates for "everyday" money - Tursan and Juracon it was.....

No betting recently (nearly backed Masta Plast at Nottingham, yesterday but managed to resist and a good job too...not a good run) and I've slightly lost track of the racing season...hopefully York next week will get me back on track. Sebastiano (the horse I have a tiny share in) is back in training with a view to a first apperance at the back end of September...more to follow as the season progresses