Domaine Bonneau du Martray at The Square with Jean-Charles le Bault de la Moriniere
As
dinners go this was an absolute gem! A Burgundian estate with only three owners
in over twelve centuries and a great London restaurant, The Square, made it so.
Domaine Bonneau du Martray is one of
only two estates in Burgundy to make only Grand Cru wines, Domaine de la Romanee
Conti being the other, and under the ownership and guidance of Jean-Charles le
Bault de la Moriniere it is on a rise from an already heady height. We started the
evening with Delamotte NV from Magnum
which went down as well as always. The first of the wines for dinner
were Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2008 and 2006 with Terrine of Doversole and Smoked Eel with a
Vinaigrette of Oysters, Lemon Oil and Chives. Jean-Charles described the
2008 as a “vertical” wine with classical definition and a stoniness that is
becoming more and more evident in the wines as the estate moves nearer and
nearer to 100% biodynamic practises. I love this 2008, there was a dash of “struck
match” about the initial nose then a beautiful youthful, energetic texture,
this wine has a long,
long future ahead of it and
is just so classically Corton-Charlemagne. The 2006 buy contrast is an “easier”
wine, a little more round (not spheric, that is 2009 according to Jean-Charles)
but with a less nervous edge. Everything is in balance. I have had some
disappointing white 2006’s this is far from them.
From
2 younger vintages we moved to Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2002, it was
commented that it was a vintage successful all over Burgundy, reds, whites, north and south.
There was increased texture and weight but still an elegance that went
brilliantly with the Steamed Turbot with
Buttered Iceberg Lettuce, Creamed Potato and Crab. If I owned the 2002,
sadly I don’t, I would be just starting to drink it from now but in no rush. My favourite geeky fact about Corton-Charlemagne
is that it is currently the most northerly white Burgundian Grand Cru in circulation
(I see Chablis as a separate region for the sake of this exercise). Can you name
the Grand Cru not currently sold as such that is further north?
From whites we now moved to reds and the Corton
Grand Cru 2003 and
Corton Grand Cru 2002 in Magnum.
The holding of Pinot Noir that Domaine Bonneau du Martray has is technically
speaking on the Chardonnay side of the vineyard but this worked very much to
their advantage in the “freaky” heat wave vintage of 2003. The vintage was very
early and where many wines in Burgundy really struggled not to be negatively
affected by the extreme heat the cooler spot on the Corton hill made for a wine
of great texture and fruit but not at the expense of freshness and elegance.
Sadly only half the usual amount could be made! This is a wine for those who are
sceptical about 2003. The Corton 2002 is more typical of the site and as
mentioned above it was a fine year. Especially from magnum this wine is still a
“youngster”. There are layers to be revealed and arguably it was the most reserved,
classily so, wine of the evening. Both wines worked very well with the delicous
Venison Wellington with Quince Purée,
Baked Celeriac and Creamed Cabbage. And so sadly it was time for the last
wine of the night - Corton Grand Cru, Magnum 1992. This wine possibly
more than any other showed the greatness of this Domaine. The wine was not made
by Jean-Charles, though he will have been there for harvest time. There will
have been stems included in the maceration and a very short fermentation, both
things changed now, but the wine had a delicate elegance and a finesse that
only great terroir would produce from a less than exciting vintage for the
reds. The point of showing this wine was to show how well good the site is, it
achieved this. The Truffled Brie was a great ending and managed not to
overpower the 1992.
I
was asked for my “wine of the night” a few times and much as I always try to
dodge this questions, it’s not a competition after all, I admitted the best
surprise was the Corton 2003 and the wine I would be most excited to own would
be the supremely classy Corton-Charlemagne 2008. The Square really looked after
us well, effortless service, great food that went wonderfully with the wines
without over shadowing anything. Just to cap things off I had my first Por Larrangana Petit Corona (from a
2012 cabinet) as I wandered off to Goodge Street tube. A very young but delicious
smoke, a little coffeed with some dark chocolate, an almost salty wrapper,
these are a cracking robust winter smoke…
From
2 younger vintages we moved to Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2002, it was
commented that it was a vintage successful all over Burgundy, reds, whites, north and south.
There was increased texture and weight but still an elegance that went
brilliantly with the Steamed Turbot with
Buttered Iceberg Lettuce, Creamed Potato and Crab. If I owned the 2002,
sadly I don’t, I would be just starting to drink it from now but in no rush. My favourite geeky fact about Corton-Charlemagne
is that it is currently the most northerly white Burgundian Grand Cru in circulation
(I see Chablis as a separate region for the sake of this exercise). Can you name
the Grand Cru not currently sold as such that is further north?
From whites we now moved to reds and the Corton
Grand Cru 2003 and
Corton Grand Cru 2002 in Magnum.
The holding of Pinot Noir that Domaine Bonneau du Martray has is technically
speaking on the Chardonnay side of the vineyard but this worked very much to
their advantage in the “freaky” heat wave vintage of 2003. The vintage was very
early and where many wines in Burgundy really struggled not to be negatively
affected by the extreme heat the cooler spot on the Corton hill made for a wine
of great texture and fruit but not at the expense of freshness and elegance.
Sadly only half the usual amount could be made! This is a wine for those who are
sceptical about 2003. The Corton 2002 is more typical of the site and as
mentioned above it was a fine year. Especially from magnum this wine is still a
“youngster”. There are layers to be revealed and arguably it was the most reserved,
classily so, wine of the evening. Both wines worked very well with the delicous
Venison Wellington with Quince Purée,
Baked Celeriac and Creamed Cabbage. And so sadly it was time for the last
wine of the night - Corton Grand Cru, Magnum 1992. This wine possibly
more than any other showed the greatness of this Domaine. The wine was not made
by Jean-Charles, though he will have been there for harvest time. There will
have been stems included in the maceration and a very short fermentation, both
things changed now, but the wine had a delicate elegance and a finesse that
only great terroir would produce from a less than exciting vintage for the
reds. The point of showing this wine was to show how well good the site is, it
achieved this. The Truffled Brie was a great ending and managed not to
overpower the 1992.
I
was asked for my “wine of the night” a few times and much as I always try to
dodge this questions, it’s not a competition after all, I admitted the best
surprise was the Corton 2003 and the wine I would be most excited to own would
be the supremely classy Corton-Charlemagne 2008. The Square really looked after
us well, effortless service, great food that went wonderfully with the wines
without over shadowing anything. Just to cap things off I had my first Por Larrangana Petit Corona (from a
2012 cabinet) as I wandered off to Goodge Street tube. A very young but delicious
smoke, a little coffeed with some dark chocolate, an almost salty wrapper,
these are a cracking robust winter smoke…
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