OS Wine Lunch and my first "Chez Bruce"...

This was actually the second gathering of Old Shirburnians who find themselves in the wine trade! The first being at the now no more, Zucca (wipes tear from eye). We managed to span all the years from 1977 to 1995 with the exception of the academic year '82-'83 but this is under control for the next "meeting".Those present are listed at the bottom of this post.

The venue was chosen and co-ordinated by, organiser-in-chief, Meels and was to be "Chez Bruce" which has long been on my "must visit" list! I was not disappointed one bit, delicious food, well balanced with an emphasis on what I am going to call gentle properness. My only gripe, entirely unjustified, is the location. I desperately need - in a "first world problem" sort of way - a restaurant like this or Kitchen W8, Medlar, La Trompette in North London.

Anyway, once "Larry" had made the long trek from practically next door to the restaurant and only been 25 minutes late we were off and running. No theme just bring a bottle or two...

We kicked off with Nyetimber Tillington Single Vineyard 2009 - first time I have had this and I have to say I was very impressed, good bit of toasty richness but nicely refined and very balanced. No more biscuity than a perfect bit of shortbread, very nice start (well for 8 of us...).

As we cracked on with the starters it was time for some Chardonnay with Californian leading the way before two Burgs. Hapgood Chardonnay 2012, Brewer-Clifton was lovely, rich and full but not smokey, more about the intensity of rich tropical yet mellow fruit. There is acidity there but behind the richness, waxy. Went very well with my Curried smoked haddock with spiced fish pastilla, crisp onions and coriander.

The Burgs were - Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2007 from E.Sauzet and 

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes 2009 from Domaine M.Niellon. Not that it's a competition but the Sauzet pipped it for me here, probably more down to the drive of the 2007 vintage than producer. The Sauzet was crisp with a little richness there but had good energy and is spot on, to my taste, right now. The Niellon, and I am getting to know this producer a little through recent experience, was good but needs drinking and had a slightly looser feel. I am being picky though, it was lovely.

Our "compulsory" middle course of Crab Ravoli worked well with the magnum of Cassis 2014, Clos St.Magdeleine. Clean fresh and wonderfully unpretentious this just flew down.

And so to the reds Spur Ranch Grenache 2014, La Marea kicked us off, another selection from our American evangelist, a very elegant Pinot-like feel to the texture and weight but contrasted by an almost northern Rhone pencil shavings and graphite scenario, nicely done. Corton Grand Cru Clos des Cortons 2008, Faiveley then followed, a very gently handled Burgundy, more Cote de Beaune in feel than the grittiness of Corton. I really like the 2008 reds they have an elegant leanness.

Time for some Rhone as the conversation continued its predicted decline.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois 2003, Domaine de la Mordorée and Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1990, Vieux Telegraph were the pair and I have to say I really enjoyed both. The Vieux Telegraph is in a lovely place, degraded and mellowed but still together, no real upside to keeping it I imagine but lovely now. The Mordoree had all the good characteristics of 2003, richness, ripeness and slightly dry fruit but none of the over extraction or over ripeness. Love the Rhone more and more.

Off to Italy for Biserno 2010 by Tenuta di Biserno (I am biased), I possibly miss-judged this by having it decanted for quite a while. It might have been better with less air as it had tightened up, still lovely though. Rich full and decadent!

Rieussec 1976 was a very thoughtful selection with a handful of those present born in this warm (hot) vintage. It was just like the top of a creme brulee, rich, decadent and lovely with the tart and the cheese. I had brought along another bottle that i love showing people and had no intention of carrying it all the way home - Barolo Serradenari 2011 from Giulia Negri was the wine in question. From the highest Cru site in the Barolo region, elegant and poised, lovely young Barolo.

A splendid afternoon (early evening if you include the beers) that made it all rather obvious why we'd all ended up in the trade…we like wearing pink shirts and talking (mostly) nonsense…onwards to round 3 which may aptly be held on 1st April... 


Present: (age order, ladies first!)
Amelia Jukes (Pinsent) SSG (89-94)
Jo Thompson (Haycock) SSG (89-94)
Julian Chamberlen (77-82)
Tom Ashworth (83-88)
Rory Benham (86-91)
Peter Richards (89-94)
Will Hargrove (89-94)
James Mason (89-94)
David Porter (90-95)

Magnums...the best by Farr?

PG goes a little "Attenborough"

So the invite to a bit of a trade get together at the new Farr Vintners offices reads:

"It’s "bring a bottle" and there are 17 of us at the moment so don’t bring anything too flash as you won’t get to drink it! In fact, a magnum would probably be better, but either way, there will be plenty to drink."

What followed was entirely predictable, EVERYONE turned up with at least one magnum...just as predictable was the fact that it was a fun evening with everyone interested to try all the wines and the "chat" (banter becoming over-used) was obviously of top quality...So lest I forget, a big thank you to Mark  and Alastair - our kind hosts. Below are just a few notes on the wines, nothing technical, selfishly for my benefit as much as anything. Anything served from bottle rather than mag is noted as such.

Fizz and early whites:
Coeur de Cuvee 2005, Vilmart - nicely balanced from this good if not spectacular vintage, being stuck in and around '02, '04, '06, '07 is a tough gig. 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir from 55 year old vines. This clearly has a life ahead of it but is not wasted now. A nice start.

Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2003- My colleague, Joe Muller, brought this along, definitely best served after the Vilmart, good ripeness and just spot on now. Biscuits just starting to show. Would love to serve this blind to any English sparkling wine sceptics.

Meursault Narvaux 2002, Domaine Michelot - I liked this, has only evolved slowly, magnum factor, good minerality and no overuse of oak at all, mellow and balanced.

Guardiola Bianco 2013, Tenuta di Passopisciaro - My magnum, I figured unoaked Etna Chardonnay might be a niche that nobody would clash with. Saline and stones on the nose, clean and pure not really a fruit wine, more a texture thing.

Those all saw us very nicely through a Salmon and Scallop ceviche.

Reds - roughly in weight order:
Savigny 1er Cru Les Dominode 2008, Bruno Clair - a site I had never heard of. Quite bold colour for 2008, good texture. I liked this, robust but not over the top. Good darker fruits.

Conseillante 2007 - went down very well, balanced and will keep but why would you? Good soft fruit and a balanced light structure, nice wine.

Chambolle Musigny 1991, Roumier (bt) - this was a trickier one to pour round the group. Degraded reddish fruit but with sweetness and a pure enough fruit character. Soft and elegant and right there to drink. A treat and nicely different.

Pesquera Reserva Especial 2003 - good balance of fruit and structure here, no decayed 2003 character, Quite ferrous and earthy but with good fruit and body, a good showing.

Barolo Bussia 2001, Parusso - embarrassingly a producer I do not know at all. Judging by this I should. A good mulled fruit character with good balance, not showing obvious oak, though I think there is some in the background but only framing the wine. Good wine and overall well received as it should have been.

Brunello di Montalcino 2004, Ciacci Piccolomini - this was a ripe, full and bold but not unbalanced Brunello from this good vintage, quite extracted but kept in check. Rich dark fruits and very much still young. Would like to try this again from bottle in 2-3 years.

Ridge Estate Cabernet 2011 - I found this to have good richness, more than I expect from the lovely, always balanced, Ridge wines and certainly more than I'd expect from the 2011 vintage. Impressive for it!

Raymond Rutherford Cabernet 2006 - "out the traps" this was a little bit of a monster or so it appeared, but actually, it got better and better, full on may be but in really good balance, I'd love to drink it again sometime to see if it was a little bit of a "one glass wonder" but I think not, rich fruit but not over the top alcohol.

Sociando Mallet 1990 - this had an eggy coating of sulphur to the nose. Unreservedly from a time when quality and quantity could go hand in hand. A good decant could have corrected that but regardless this was a good rich, dark fruit and floral lift wine. Really quite typical of Margaux in its own way. 

Lynch Bages 1982 - in a different style to the Sociando this is a wine that speaks of a different generation in Bordeaux, there is a sense, in a good way, of "throw it all in". The fruit is balanced with the structure, there is some "good green" character and a great drinkability, deliciously honest.

Deer In The Headlights Syrah 2003, Two Hands - big bold and uncompromising, I didn't make many notes here. Sorry.

Vouvray Mont Moelleux 1er Trie 2003, Huet  (2 x bt) - very good, bright, orange fruits and lovely with cheese or pudding, good acidity as you'd expect.
 
Crozes-Hermitage Thalabert 1989, Jaboulet - saline, soy, good acidity, a little astringent but good enough, probably a little past it in bottle format but still there in magnum. Propper older wine for all that.

Main course of Veal, Lentils and Spinach

After dinner whites:
Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay 2013, Sandhi - tiny production (only about 100 cases), old vine, planted in 1971, Chardonnay. I have wanted to try this for a while and would love to do so again, good salinity and not over the top fruit or oak, nicely balanced.

Meursault Grands Charrons 2010, Boisson-Vadot (bt) - a very classic B-V nose, not as extrovert as their good 2009's, more classical and focused, a good wine with a long life ahead.

And I think that...was that...good fun! (and nice offices!)