Saturday 25 April 2015

Some recommended reading...

A colleague at work the other day said…

"One of the problems with working in wine is that nobody gives you wine books"

This struck me as very true. Over the last few months I have been buying/seeking out quite a few publications as there has been some exciting stuff going on. The fact that so much wine commentary has moved on-line seems to have meant that anyone publishing anything in "hardcopy" has really needed to hit the spot. For me the Pomerol book from Neal Martin was the first of these "new approach" books where personality and opinion rather than scores and facts seem to be the key. Neal's book has been out a while so I've not included it in the below but thoroughly recommend it. One of the reasons that I know the three things below fit the bill as well are that I spend time dragging them around with me or at least having to give serious thought to whether they should be on my desk or at home...

Noble Rot (Website)
The picture is of edition 7 but essentially everything they have produced has been great. There are several reasons:
Tone: It is not afraid to talk about the very best estates in the world but does so without big star-struck or patronising to the reader, both of which are traps that others fall into. It is concise but not flippant. Wine is talked about as a part of life rather than an academic study.
Writters: Some of the best there are at not getting dragged down with (unnecessary) detail. Having many of theme keeps it fresh.
Format: I love the size, big enough for good illustrations but small enough to carry around, another bonus is that it is available on iPad etc.
Subjects: There is a main theme to each edition to give it focus which is good. The topics have not all been obvious either. Yes they have done "Burgundy" but they also did "Jura".
Issues: My only issue it that they have not done Piedmont yet but it is on the cards
Keep up the good work!

Barolo and Barbaresco - Kerin O'Keefe
Ok so very few people will be surprised that the next two books are Piedmont related. 
This book is superb whether your level of knowledge is small, large or growing. The first section gives a great overview of the region then the next few chapters go through sub-region by sub-region picking out particular producers. The big names are all there but plenty of small ones two. The real attraction though is the easy to read style of writing that is engaging and amusing. 
There is plenty of opinion and you can detect whether the author loves or merely likes the specific producers. I like the sense that the book has not been edited to death or that the author has worried about what they write. I keep going back over sections as and when I have certain producers wines and I find it both accurate, engaging and useful. I also have the Brunello book by the same author and that seems similarly good though I have not read it as widely yet. Recommended!

Barolo MGA - ENOGEA - Allesandro Masnaghetti  www.enogea.it
So this is "quite" a specific and geeky book but it is such an important one also. I only  received it the other day and have been using the Enogea apps and maps for quite some time. Ok so I find the subject mater fascinating but regardless of that the maps and images alone make this book almost impossible not to browse through, there is such depth of information but at the same time you can just dip in and out. The only problem is that the second you press print on this something changes and I feel awful for the author that this happens. Anyway I am going to go and look through it again now!

Team Dinner…BYO @ POTG

So Joe and Valentina  co-ordinated everyone doing a team meal at Planet of the Grapes Bow Lane Restaurant…bring a bottle or buy a bottle was the order of the day and the format very relaxed. We kicked off with a few whites:

Bourgogne Aligote Raisins Dores 2010, Domaine Michel Lafarge - A wine I love, I've sadly finished my case of 2008, always more richness than you associate with this sometimes sour grape, the 201 was a little muted but good, best in another 12-18 months I recon, a nice start...

St.Veran Les Deux Moulin 2012, Louis Latour was next, dent with good minerality but just a shaw too much "safety first wine making" may be.

Meursault Les Grands Charrons 2009, Boisson-Vadot - Rich and slightly reduced as always here, the only thing that hinted at 2009 was the vey end of the finish, this is classy wine with good texture and a nice future, quite a treat.

L'Effronte Moelleux 2007, Domaine Matrot - Ok so there aren't many sweet aligotes out there, this wine is ageing well and has a great capacity for food matching, think if anything where you want youthful Sauternes like flavours but without the viscosity.   
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Petit Chapelle 2011, Rossignol-Trapet was the first red and sadly we discarded it, I didn't think it was corked but it was almost metallic, interestingly we left it and the next day Matt at Planet of the Grapes said it was delicious and asked why we hadn't drunk it. Strange.

Volnay 1er Cru Taillpieds 2008, de Montille - this was very elegant, very volnay (red fruits and feminity), and also very 2008 by which i mean pure and focussed in an almost lean way, very cool pinot, a style I love but so different from 2009 for instance, good wine!

Then were off to Piedmont with Barolo La Tartufaia 2009, Giulia Negri which showed well though I am not sure 2009 is their type of vintage especially, I have been there since this meal so will do a blog about Negri soon - it's a very interesting estate. My two bottles were next. 

Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta 2008, Giacomo Conterno which is a one I know well, the first vintage from the site by Roberto (he only completed the purchase in June 2008) it is a very pure, slightly lighter, Nebbiolo expression - I really like it. The other of my choices was Barolo Pie Rupestris 2009, Cappellano as I wanted to try it for the first time, no disappointment here, rich and full but not heavy, this will age well and hopefully help me keep my hands off the 2008 and 2010. Class producer for sure.
Coudoulet de Beaucastel Rouge 2009 kicked of a quick trip to the Rhone valley, a nee wine that is drinking now and remains a real value buy (in quite a serious bottle now also).

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee des Felix 2000, Domaine Bois de Boursan was a few people wine of th night and I could see why, real depth and power but not brutish, impressive.

Lovat Vineyard “Amarath” Syrah 2006 from Dry River was the slight intruder in the Rhone flight and had a good deep Syrah nose, black fruit and cool stones/iron...the only problem was a slightly hollow palate, the finish returned well though.
Things the became a little surreal…a cracking Langedoc wine that I had never had was next, good herbal fruit and an easy but present structure it was Peyre Rose 2005, Clos de Cistes, awful label but then that it what decanters are for. I'll look it out again at some stage.

Calon Segur 2000 was predicable good and try proper, fir and masculine but in no way harsh, good length, good fruit, sartingto hit it's stride, a treat.

Gérard Depardieu Référence 2012 a Vin de Pays d'oc was extraordinary in it cheap tasting primary, almost carbonic nose, fortunately it was someones second (I hope) joke bottle, we had a good discussion about it but sadly it took a little bit of a hammering...
And so to the last wine of a fun evening - La Tour Blanche 2007 - just lovely, drinking well, an estate I really like (their 2014 is great) and who never go for power over focussed drive in my opinion. At this age it would work just as well before dinner as after it

A lot of fun…next team outing will be part two of this...BBQ Chez Duvault Blochet

Tuesday 14 April 2015

Day to day...

Having a quick look at the blog over the year so far I realise quite how privileged I have been terms of tastings and trips in the last few months. However, I also notice that I've only really been writing up bigger dinner and events and not really documenting the wines I come across at the many lunches and dinners I am very lucky to enjoy, in a relaxed way, with customers, producers and friends. Many of the former two have become the latter which is one of the real joys of the wine trade. I also have to say that as my memory gets worse I use this blog more and more to remember if I have had certain wines...so a bit of a recent run of meals...
Relaxed luncheon at Otto's - both the other "Lunchers" had dinners that evening so this was a lovely relaxed lunch with lots of good chat. One white and one red. We started with Meursault Clos de Mazeray 2012 from Domaine Jacques Prieur a Domaine I am getting to know really well. This was lovely and rich but with a saline edge, it's a good wine from a good vintage. The red, Barolo 1967 from Accomasso Giovani - was rather at the other end of the age range and showed wonderful sweetness and complexity, earth and ash as well as flowers and a shade of red sweet frazzles (if that makes any sense). The food at Otto's did us proud. A thoroughly enjoyable lunch.
The next lunch, actually the following day, was at Zucca with a mate in the trade who writes, buys and sells. A great new starter has made it onto the menu - Squid Bruschetta with squid ink used in the bread making. It is delicious and strongly recommended. The use of squid and octopus is becoming a real signature for Zucca. The wines we had were a good complimentary pair, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2004 from JJ Prum and then Le Vigne de Zamo 2000 by Ronco dei Roseti. Prum is for me one of the most flexible white wine producers with and without food, the variety of sweetness and ripeness and the texture of the wine as well as the lower alcohol really give you lots of options. This Auslese in 2004 has real precision and freshness. The red was a wine I had never had before, it is a Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend, having it blind I was half minded towards Bolgheri as there was a black fruited, bell-pepper note about this but less weight than you tend to get from further south. Friuli is known for whites but on this showing, reds too.
The hat-trick of lunches was notched up with a Friday at 1 Lombard Street near bank in the city, a spot I know well. Peter Sisseck was in town having been at the dinner given to celebrate Alvaro Palacios getting the Decanter Man of the Year award. We had Psi 2010 from bottle followed by Psi 2011 from Magnum, both showed well, possibly the 2011 just edging it for focus. Peter explained how this project worked, essentially protecting old vines by having a co-operative approach to buying their fruit. We then went to the estate that Peter is best know for - Pingus and had the Flor de Pingus 2006 which was showing superbly, yes it is young but it has such brightness that it's lovely now. To pair the 2006 we also had Flor de Pingus 1996 which I was always under the impression was the first Flor de Pingus, in fact we heard from Peter that there had been a little bit of Flor made in 1995 (the first year of Pingus) but as with the Pingus it ended up in the bottom of the Bay of Biscay when the boat went down. The 1996 has always been a great wine at taking some famous scalps and is fully mature now but still so good. We then just had time, before Peter dashed off to get a plane, for us to try the first two vintages of Chateau Rocheyron 2010 (Magnum) and 2011. The 2010 has a great reputation of course but this is very much a work in progress for Peter and the 2012 are really showing that as is the 2014 I tasted last week in Bordeaux. He will not release 2013 as Rocheyron, instead it will appear only under the second label of Fleur de Rocheyron.


An invite came through the following week to attend the Uk launch of Dom Perignon Rose 2004 and not knowing the wine well I though this was not a chance to pass up. Dom Perignon "normal" is, in my opinion, one of the few examples in the wine world of mass production and high quality. Dom Perignon Rose 2003 - the release before the 2004 and richer, a little darker, a little more opulent. It was then time for the Dom Perignon Rose 2004 which showed more focus and refinement, may be showing less of the Rose elements just yet but that will come.
The next lunch was a Friday at Zucca, contrary to popular opinion I rarely "lunch" on a Friday as I like to finish the week off. The visit was the very first for a customer/friend and we had agreed to bring a bottle each - I went down the JJ Prum route again with Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 1997 which showed really well, a little richer and more unctuous than the 2004 but still very fresh and a great accompaniment to the variety of antipasti, or Italian tapas as I like to think of them. It was then time for Costa Russi 2000 from Gaja, this was very Gaja and very 2000, quite bold and full, very good but youthful and may be without the razor sharp acidity you can get in other vintages, the last glass was really singing. As it was a friday and there was still much to discuss I asked for the list and selected Barolo Sarmassa 2009 from Brezza. I like these wines and think they are certainly under-appreciated, think "really good second growth" or a Domaine in Burgundy that makes great wines but doesn't quite have the Grand Cru holdings it deserves, rich, full but also pure. I am very pleased to own some Brezza wines.
And last but by no means least it was back to Otto's (yes boring aren't I). Two customers who used to work together in the city - some great stories - very kindly suggested Lunch and knowing they have lovely cellars I said I'll bring a white and  pay for the food. So we started with Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres 2011 from Francois Carillon. I really like the Francois Carillon wines, I am biased but think he's really nailing it with zingy, elegant wines that drink well from early but will age well, he wisely went easy on the new oak in 2011 and the results are lovely. The three reds we had were deliciously different. Gruaud Larose 1982 was fully mature but still rich with dark fruit, a good dose of blood and iron (in a good way of course). The Burgundy pairing was both kind and fascinating 
Charmes Chambertin Tres Vielles Vignes 1995 and 1997 from J.Roty. I have always found there to be a masculine style to the wine at Roty but somehow they are never hard, there is a specific texture, a dash chalky. The 1995 was rich, savoury, some soy and sweet stock but then refined and persistent, young but totally appreciable now, good, very good. The 1997 was by a slight contrast open and ready to go, still the same family of flavours - soy, bruised fruit and savoury sweetness but just looser and sweeter, less brooding, lovely now but no rush, medium weight...we then had some cheese and Rieussec 2003 from a half. This was drinking nicely, good balance and a little bit of rancio coming in. I think with the pricing of Rieussec having all gone a bit "wrong" of late that a lot more of it will simply get drunk at lunches and dinners...all in all a good thing.

Saturday 4 April 2015

A week in Bordeaux tasting the 2014's - picture blog...

Just back from Bordeaux:

7 days tasting the 2014 Bordeaux with colleagues at C&B
372 samples - 315 tasted and 57 consumed.
Wines tasted between one and four times
I'll do a summary of my thoughts on the vintage and the wines at some stage
Picture blog of the trip in 57 photos...
The only way to prepare properly... 
Helen and France's least comfortable van!
Quintus...
Tasting the Haut Brion stable...very proper
Mr Marus clearly can't read the words "grass, keep, off, the, please" 
Alison, Guy and Mr Marus tasting at Pichon Lalande... 
Saturday morning...lovely tasting
Mr Fraser gets prepared to re-taste the Moueix 2013's before the 2014's.  
Always love this property, 2014 no exception...
Exceptional...
Well said and it does help.
Adam and Guy interview Edouard and Christian...
Can't say where but this is rare in Bordeaux..."glass or knife sir?"
Exactly...
Peter Sisseck gets animated at and about Rocheyron with Percy, Adam and Paul...
Caption competition?
Decent if no more....
Jo-Jo guards Lamarque...
Team in the cellar at Lamarque with Pierre-Giles...
Ready, steady, go...really useful Negoce tasting pre lunch on a Sunday....
Sweeties...great to taste along side each other, I'm not good enough with words to describe these.
Well it's sunday and the cabbage was awesome too...
Lovely set...de Fargues really is a bargain, 2004 not easy but this superb...
Such lovely weather for a Monday morning at Branaire... 
The Branaire wines with Patrick Maroteaux's son... 
Mr Fraser enjoys a furry chair at Latour...
When they will be released? Who knows? But lovely they certainly are...
The recent releases...Latour 2003 a wonderful "freak", unconvinced about Forts 2008...
Amazing set up at Mauvesin Barton...it was suggested it'd be awesome for paint-balling...
Wet and grey from Tertre Roteboeuf...
Adam and Guy interview Francois Mitjavile...never dull!  
Tertre Roteboeuf cellars - I never think the wine is particularly Burgundian but the set up IS...
More Interviews - Edouard Labruyere at Rouget, very interesting perspective...
How Rouget's label has changed, 2014 very good and liable to be a great, savvy buy! 
What a line-up with a friend, customer, wine-lover...THANK YOU!
Red scarves at Palmer...it got quite feisty on pricing... 

This red fiat was a complete pain...we needed a referee... 
The Marketing was in full flow at Margaux...Pavillon Blanc was wonderful... 
An icon even now - hustle, bustle and good game chips....
Where did that extra chin come from...
Impressive, Cabernet showcase...
Brooding and serious, for the patient...rewards will follow
A wonderful, relaxed and happy evening...
Vineyards at Les Carmes Haut-Brion - very much still "in town"...
The works at Carmes Haut-Brion, amazing set up for the 2015 crop... 
On great form...
We were at Smith Haut Lafite for the Pessac & Graves UGC... understatement never included...
Monster or masterpiece? A bit of both actually...
"Softplay area" at a very well organised St.Julien UGC at Leoville Poyferre...
Lord Marus of Bordeaux awaits the tasting at Cos d'Estournel... 
His request is answered...impressive and the white is cracking...
Not your average start to a Thursday...
So pure fruited, open, elegant...
Mr Fraser inspects the "arrangements" at La Conseillante...
Conseillante 2014, floral, elegant, precise, good!
The last tasting...filling any gaps and settling any differences, oh and tasting all the Sauternes...
Job done!